72 case 450 track idler question

What's the best way to get the brackets off the idlers?

How bad is this track?
Thanks In advance

First off the brackets on the idler are pressed on on most idlers. Some have a spiral pin that holds them onto the shaft. If your seal is bad or idler is worn out it's actually cheaper to replace the whole thing. Secondly the tracks are worn out in my opinion.

Yep, track is junk. Depends on the serial number but if the idler is shot anyway, easiest thing is to blow the shaft out with a torch or air arc, leaving the brackets unscathed. This is not for the faint of heart. I believe these have a bolt and washer on each end of the shaft you can remove and then heat the bracket, remove with a puller. Need serial number and pictures actually.

Sorry for the long delay got involved in another project.
serial 3048746

have this one apart more now, inner bracket on the idler is egged out so the idler is shot and bracket.

The sprocket is kaput as well. They will tear up new chains in about 100 hours

Tones said:

The sprocket is kaput as well. They will tear up new chains in about 100 hours

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Can you explain what is wrong with the sprocket?

Worn chain wear the sprockets so when new chains are fitted the sprockets are then the wrong pitch causing a mismatch.

Further to my last post, depending on your funds it's not essential to replace worn rollers/idlers so long as the are in good working order and still hold oil. It's not ideal but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. But new or refurbished chains require new or refurbished sprockets

Not to start an argument, but that sprocket shows very little wear, if that's a home/hobby machine I wouldn't bother with the sprockets, just make sure the bushing size matches the sprocket cups well and run it. I sugest ITR for chains and idler wheel, you will have to shop around for the bracket.

lantraxco said:

Not to start an argument, but that sprocket shows very little wear, if that's a home/hobby machine I wouldn't bother with the sprockets, just make sure the bushing size matches the sprocket cups well and run it. I sugest ITR for chains and idler wheel, you will have to shop around for the bracket.

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No argument here mate but I've seen this false economy to many times in my past life especially when then the track frame has to be removed so the sprocket can be replaced. On this machine that is not the case but while the tracks are off is the best time to do it. Just sayn

I once watched a guy think it was a good idea to replace every other roller, that didn't work out to well for him!

lantraxco said:

Not to start an argument, but that sprocket shows very little wear, if that's a home/hobby machine I wouldn't bother with the sprockets, just make sure the bushing size matches the sprocket cups well and run it. I sugest ITR for chains and idler wheel, you will have to shop around for the bracket.

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It's a hobby machine so cost is definitely a concern. To me, I thought the sprocket did not show much wear, That's why I asked what was wrong with it. I definitely agree with tones if this was a commercially used machine to replace everything. I picked up some decent used bottom rollers a while ago, also picked up two used Idlers not sure if they are correct for the machine, the price was too good to pass up even if they were wrong!
i noticed on my idler the track adjuster is wider than the one I bought, you can see in the pic that the arms are bent in, I measured up the idler, it seems to be the same.,The only thing I did not measure was the idler shaft lengths ..My goal is to take a link out of the chain and install the used parts, take a chance that the track stays on now. its just labor at this point, the left side of the machine has 36 links, the right side I am working on has 37,