John Deere 310 SE Project

I enjoyed watching the project, thank you for posting it. There is so much knowledge on this forum, especially when the professional wrenches chime in to help.

it was mentioned about not raising the stabilizers, been there, done that with my JD500A. Moving around to dig a big stump, there is no reason to raise them all the way. But, one time I was done, and flying through the woods coming back, I had one catch a tree. A real wake up call, it ripped and bent the iron where it attaches to the tractor.

Welcome to the forums, Kenelz. Yeah, I'm constantly amazed at the vast array of knowledge on the forum and they're willingness to share and help out on some pretty intimidating equipment problems. Sure makes working on this stuff easier.

I've been enjoying the machine. I'm like you, if moving around I don't raise the stabilizers all the way and sometimes forget they're low. I haven't hit anything, but can imagine that would swing the machine around...ouch. Got any pictures of your JD500A. That sounds like a big machine.

Here is a pic of when I was fixing the stabilizer.

That's a hoss, Kenelz. Looks like a clean machine. Thanks for the pic.

Starter Won't Engage

Ever since I bought this 310, about 25% of the times I hit the start position on the key, all I hear is a click in the console and coming from the starter relay behind the steering wheel.

This weekend I dug a 70ft trench and finished the job and was about to come back to the house and I hit the start position about 6 or 7 times and nothing but a click. Was wondering if it was going to start, but on about the eighth time, it engaged and cranked right up. So it's only getting worse. Figured it was time to address it so I'm not stuck out somewhere.

Started troubleshooting. Removed the signal wire from the starter solenoid and jumped the 12V supply from the starter to the solenoid and the starter engages without any hesitation and tries to crank the engine. 10 out of 10 times. At this point I'm ruling out the solenoid or starter.

I measure the voltage on the solenoid signal wire (removed from solenoid) when I turn to start and I get anywhere from 10.7 to 12.6 volts. About half the time it's below 12 volts. Not sure if anything below would be enough to engage the solenoid.

I hear the starter relay clicking, but at this point I'm thinking it's either the starter relay or the switch. The switch is original far as I can tell and it's not as crisp as it used to be, but I do hear the relay click 100% of the time I try to start so maybe the switch is ok and the relay is not giving me full 12V? I'm planning to check out the relay tonight and make sure the connections are good. Anyway have any advice or stories on what is most common to fail?

boone said:

jumped the 12V supply from the starter to the solenoid

Click to expand...

When I have this problem, I can sometimes tap the starter with a small hammer and it will go back to working normally. It's like the starter motor needs rotating ever so slightly before it will come to life.

Hello Boone.
I have been busily working on other fixes for a while and haven't used the hoe much on my end except to spread some gravel. I bet its your key switch. Its pretty simple to take out once you get that panel opened up on the side of the console. Can you put a jumper in there and bypass the start portion of the key switch. I bet you can . I haven't looked at it enough but I would try that route. I haven't looked at switch prices either, but that solenoid I replaced last year at this time was only like 3-40 bucks. Probably the cheapest time I ever will fix a machine like this but it worked!!

Thanks JL and Fred.

Switch is around $25
Starter relay is around $55
Starter is around $180 for a cheap one

I went out on my lunch break and found the starter relay which a small cylindrical relay under the hood above the ether canister. I took the plastic cover off and found rust on the terminal and nut. It looked a little corroded. I will take the leads off and clean it tonight. I'll bench test it too. Like I say, I hear this relay click 100% of the time even when it doesn't start so I know the start switch is energizing it, but it's not always sending a full 12V to the starter solenoid at least that's my theory so far.

Fred, I seem to remember you replaced the accessory relay? I was wondering if the accessory relay had anything to do with the starting.

Yes what you found there is a good try! I would clean that first and see how things go after that. I did replace the accessory relay, but it didn't have any input to the starting circuit. My only issues at the time were all the accessories were acting wacko and only working part time on a good day (AC/wipers/radio etc), but mine always started without any issues. The starter key switch sounds pretty cheap to fix if its what I think it is (thats my bet anyway you will have to let me know if I guessed it correctly?) BTW on another topic The General Mowee is down right now. Im trouble shooting why the engine dies like its being strangled when I turn on the clutch to engage the blades. Blades turn free by hand, so I am guessing it has to do with the magnetic/electric clutch. Always something to fix around my place-Geeze!

Not the General Mowee! This is prime time for that thing. The grass is growing around here. Sounds you're on to the clutch as the culprit. Not much else it could be if your spindle bearings are good.

Took the relay off tonight and cleaned up the posts and terminals. Applied 12V to the relay about 50 times. It clicked/energized 100% of the time, but about 5-10% of the time it didn't always give me continuity across the load leads. And sometimes even when it did close the circuit, there was about 20 Ohms resistance across the leads so maybe that would explain some of the voltage drop to the starter signal wire on the solenoid?

Anyway, since I have everything off I went ahead and ordered a new OEM starter relay. We'll see. If that doesn't do, I'll spring for a shiny switch.

20 ohms of resistance? That will cause a pretty significant voltage drop under load.

This thing was all over the place. It was only a handful of times it acted really weird. But it would probably be worse with a load on it. Enough inconsistency for me to replace it.

Hopefully that solves the problem. Pretty cheap fix if so.

Got my fingers crossed JL.

New relay installed this weekend. I'm now getting a consistent 12.4V to the starter solenoid now. Seems to have fixed the click starting issue I had.

Nice Job! Does that sit on the left side right inside the access door? I guess I would have lost money if I bet you it was the ignition switch! wink wink! Hopefully this solves your problem.

You probably won't ever have to work on that solenoid again. Top notch!

Fred from MO said:

Nice Job! Does that sit on the left side right inside the access door? I guess I would have lost money if I bet you it was the ignition switch! wink wink! Hopefully this solves your problem.

Click to expand...

Yes, here's a blown out picture of where it is.

Fred from MO said:

I guess I would have lost money if I bet you it was the ignition switch! wink wink! Hopefully this solves your problem.

Click to expand...

LOL, well, I almost replaced the switch anyway, but figured I'd just replace things one at a time. The switch is on the troubleshooting list on the sheet of paper you see under the relays in the pic above. My luck is the switch will be the next thing that goes...

JL Sargent said:

You probably won't ever have to work on that solenoid again. Top notch!

Click to expand...

I hope so JL. Hopefully this little piece will last another 23 years.

Have a leak on my stick cylinder. Trying to mentally prepare myself for how big a job it's going to be to get the rod guide off the end of my stick cylinder.

I've had good luck with an air chisel on the other cylinders , but the rings are much smaller on all the other cylinders. The hoe end seems to have a different design, more like an excavator style. It has a jam nut and then a big cap/rod guide what the manual calls it. The service manual shows a big frankenstein tool which fits in the grooves to torque the end off. Am I better off not to waste my time and have a shop twist this off? As far as I know, this one has not been off before. I've been soaking it with PB Blaster.

If it has never been off, it is Loctited and torqued to 1000 lbft.