Theweldor
Senior Member
Not a pretty looking thing by any means ( just picking on you ) LOL But it does seem to work well. Your getting the hang of it.
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Bore welding help
- Thread starter Volvomad
- Start date
I go for function before sleek lines .if i was going again it would be a little different. Apart from the bearings bar and cutting tips every thing was accumulated scrap . It was very interesting and the welder settings have a small window. Thanks for all the help . I am done with it for a while.
Theweldor
Senior Member
Something I forgot to add before. If you get a smaller bore don't be afraid to cut the contact tip shorter along with the gas shield. It would give you more clearance for the small stuff.
Don't worry about the sleek lines. It works for what you need and that is what is important. You will refine it more as time goes on I am sure. I have thrown stuff together for different jobs also.
Don't worry about the sleek lines. It works for what you need and that is what is important. You will refine it more as time goes on I am sure. I have thrown stuff together for different jobs also.
I used a standard murex tip and tip holder and shortened both from both ends .My shroud /shield can slide a bit . I am not sure if the tip was a bit to close to the work or my tip was too short (i took a little more off it) ,but a small glob formed on the tip a few times welding the smaller bore welding the wire to the tip .
How best should I setup the boring bar for parallelism to other bores ?
I got cones made ,but differences in wear and ovality between pairs of bores and when the pair are close together are a problem.
I know I said I am done a while ,but I am still boring and welding away in my noggin .
How best should I setup the boring bar for parallelism to other bores ?
I got cones made ,but differences in wear and ovality between pairs of bores and when the pair are close together are a problem.
I know I said I am done a while ,but I am still boring and welding away in my noggin .
Theweldor
Senior Member
Your tip could have been a bit close if you got that much build up. I use quite a bit of nozzle gel also. It will still build up but it will also fall off occasionally.
If it is that hard to align with the cones. I will use straight edges and steel machonists rules. Bit of a learning curve and sometimes you will need to average things out from one side to the other.
Hope this helps a bit.
If it is that hard to align with the cones. I will use straight edges and steel machonists rules. Bit of a learning curve and sometimes you will need to average things out from one side to the other.
Hope this helps a bit.
Nige
Senior Member
Those results look well tidy fella.
Let's see what the surface looks like once it's machined.
Let's see what the surface looks like once it's machined.
Nige
Senior Member
Don't be shy. The only way you will get better is by practice and taking advice/suggestions from people who have been there before.
Finding it hard to get a smooth surface finish . One problem is my bar speed is fixed at 65 rpm which seems fine for pulling out heavy or intermittent cuts but i think a nit slow for a light finishing cut. 2 i have no machining expierence other than a pillar drill. I gave the bores above a hone after .
Sberry
Senior Member
I welded a bush in a spun hole the other day snd it was a little fussy and then realized i should have sanded it a little first just a bit. Had some crap worked in the surface a little, I flame cleaned it a bit but there was something ground in the surface a fuzz and a machine with a finer adjustment and little more current practice make a little difference. But some of it some minor stuff in it really didn't show till really hanging with it uphill about 10 o'clock.
Theweldor
Senior Member
If your finish isn't as good as you would like. You should try some 40 grit flap wheels for a die grinder. You won't need to spend but a minute or two at it as the 40 grit will clean them up pretty fast. I have also used a carbide tool for the last pass with good results, but you have to remove them as they will chip if you try to bring them back threw the bore.
Always keep in mind "Practice makes perfect".
Always keep in mind "Practice makes perfect".
Sberry
Senior Member
Ya, I was gonna run something in it and forgot and had it tacked in. I agree the ideal pre prep is 40 or so, I use 36 sanding too and its my go too smoother. Managing the dross seems different than hard wheel, its a little finer and can finish a little smoother. I was sitting right downin front of it and well positioned, not quite as fluid as I was but it was all position and I was well braced and could see it well and could see little "hairs" so to speak raise.
It was a fussy little thing and had considered getting the Maxstar for the fussy adjustment. 3/32 7018 can have a window of a couple amps and the taps on the red unit are a stretch with the small electrodes.
It was a fussy little thing and had considered getting the Maxstar for the fussy adjustment. 3/32 7018 can have a window of a couple amps and the taps on the red unit are a stretch with the small electrodes.
This is the finish . There are some weld lines visable . I left the bearings on as i have not got the pin and i want to measure it before i dismantle. Did give it a very quick blast of 80 grit wheel on a diegrinder. Must get a 40 grit to make better progress. 
Ment to add that this place is a great resorce and i have learned a lot and got a lot of help to date. Thanks to all who contribute.
Ment to add that this place is a great resorce and i have learned a lot and got a lot of help to date. Thanks to all who contribute. Theweldor
Senior Member
40 grit will make a lot quicker work of it. Get yourself a piece of carbide tooling and take the last cut at .005 or so and see how nice that comes out.