Its fairly involved so here goes. Find the best spot on the crank pulley that's easiest to see and to get to. Remove the valve cover. Firing order for a 4 cyl should be 1-3-4-2. Turn the engine over until the valves on #4 are on the rock position( exhaust closing and intake starting to open), #1 cyl should have both valve rockers loose. This puts you close to tdc for either cyl. It may be easier to bar the engine over if you remove the starter to get to the flywheel. Make a pointer and install. It should be as rigid as possible. Bar the engine back about 90 degrees before tdc. Find a way to carefully wedge a 1/4 inch thick shim( a 1/4 inch allen wrench will also work) between the tip of the valve stem and the rocker arm. This forces and holds the valve open. Either valve will work. I usually use a sharp flat screwdriver to gradually wiggle and force it in, being careful not to dislodge the retainer and you do NOT want to bend the valve stem and you do NOT want the valve keepers to pop out. With the valve held open, CAREFULLY bar the engine over until you feel the piston come up against the valve. Scribe a light mark on the pulley in line with the pointer. Back the piston away from the valve. Carefully remove the shim and let the valve close. Now bar the engine approximately 90 degrees past tdc. On the SAME valve, CAREFULLY insert the same shim to hold the valve open again. Now bar the engine BACK toward tdc until you feel the valve touch the piston. Make another light scribe on the pulley in line with the pointer. Again, back the piston away from the valve and carefully remove the shim from under the rocker arm. Now you have 2 scribe marks on the pulley and EXACTLY half way between the two (around the circumference), is TRUE TDC. Use a cold chisel and make a permanent mark at this location. Now measure the diameter of the crank pulley where you made the chisel mark. Millimeters is the most accurate but use which ever you are confident with. Using basic math, calculate the circumference ( PI X D or 3.142 X dia). Take this circumference number and divide it by 360(degrees). this will give you the number of millimeters for each degree of the circumference. Multiply this number by the degrees of advance required-- in your case 8 degrees. Using a flexible ruler(or tape) use this total to measure back BEFORE the TRUE tdc mark and make your mark on the pulley. Bar the engine back to about 30 degrees BTDC and slowly advance toward the mark so as to remove the gear backlash as you come up to the 8 degree timing mark on the pulley. With the 8 degree mark aligned with the pointer, the timing marks on the injection pump should line up. it sounds complicated but its actually not. the hardest part may be barring the engine back and forth so many times. i made a turning tool out of an old starter for the deutz engines that required removal of the starter but worked well. it may be easier to have a second person to bar the engine over as you watch the marks align with the pointer. and don't have a 300lb yard ape hanging off a 5 ft bar to turn it over. care and finesse is the key here. to make it even easier, you could pull all the injectors to avoid fighting the compression. i can try to clarify this if you need. i have proof-read it a few times but it should be right. this is the basic procedure i learned at a deutz service school back in the early 80's
