I’m replacing a tierod assembly on my Case 580M 4WD this weekend. The manual describes using a special narrow crowfoot wrench CAS-2150 on the flat for the steering cylinder piston for separating the tierod. The slot is too narrow for a standard open wrench. I'm planning on grinding an old wrench to reduce the width and make it fit but I'm concerned about the strength. Any words of wisdom on this job?
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580M Tie Rod Replacement Question
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Coy Lancaster
Senior Member
Grinding an old wrench to fit will probably do the trick, that special tool isn't that thick or hardened. You may have to heat the old tie rod end a bit to loosen it. Be sure to make the tie rod so you can put the new one close to the same position.
Bls repair
Senior Member
Calling for a crows foot you may have to bend the wrench to a 90
stinky64
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Like Coy said, mark the tie rod and count the threads sticking out of the sleeve before removal...I like to use a pocket screwdriver for the count...start at the sleeve and count the threads with the tip, works well even on a grimy part..
I finally got a chance to lay wrenches on the machine and it looks like an old thin 1 1/4” wrench will do the job. I tried to break it loose but it’s going to need some leverage. I’ll give it some heat and serious attention tomorrow. Thanks for the advice.
MarshallPowerGen
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You can also stick a pipe wrench (or regular if it has flats) on the opposite ball joint to hold the steer cylinder rod in place when you loosen and tighten them. Get both sides broken loose before removing either though.
I've tried my ground skinny service wrenches on them, and they usually just spread before coming close to breaking anything loose.
I've tried my ground skinny service wrenches on them, and they usually just spread before coming close to breaking anything loose.
Thanks MarshallPowerGen, I'm about to try securing the the opposite joint. Just like you, my service wrench spread when I tried it.
I'm working on the starboard side. Why do you recommend breaking both side loose before removing the starboard joint?
I'm working on the starboard side. Why do you recommend breaking both side loose before removing the starboard joint?
MarshallPowerGen
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Good to break them both loose with the old joints, that way if the other side ends up putting up a fight you won't be leaving teeth marks in or damaging a new ball joint.
Oh I see. My overly ambitious plan for this weekend was replacing the tie rod assembly on one side and king pins on the other. Didn't accomplish either. I was able to break the ball joint loose I didn't plan on replacing, haha. I'm going to take a pause and think before I have another go. Worst case I'll have to cut the old ball joint off and drill/tap it. I've never had to resort to that but it is an M20-1.5 and those flats are tiny for what you need to do.
I talked to my Case dealer today and they said this was a common problem on the later 580s due to the small flats on the cylinder rod. The mechanic said they often have to drop the complete front axle assembly and put the cylinder rod in a vise. He described using plastic to protect the rod that sounded like a gun barrel vise. He said they'd resorted to a pipe wrench on a couple occasions. Since there is over an inch of rod protruding even at full lock I guess it wouldn't be a problem. I just don't like the idea of it. Any thoughts?
MarshallPowerGen
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If you broke the opposite side ball joint loose, you can keep turning until it threads out enough to get a regular wrench onto the rod flats to hold it, then break the side you want to remove loose.
Stanley the dog
Active Member
Ive changed the inter ball joint and the outer tie rods on my 590 SM case the threads was both right hand and like some of the other replies if you hold one side with a pipe wrench on the inter ball joint one of the 2 will break lose then unscrew it enough to get a full width wrench on on the steering cylinder then turn the other side lose
I did exactly what MarshallPowerGen and Stanley said and broke it free. Thank you so much for the wisdom. I’m sure this was obvious to real mechanics. I still had to use a cheater to break it free. Unfortunately, now the steering cylinder is leaking. I didn’t use a hammer or anything else too brutal but I obviously caused this. The leak appears to be coming from the cylinder-gland joint rather than from the rod seals. When the weather warms, I’ll clean everything and pinpoint the leak to make sure it’s not coming from the hose next to the gland.
The lower kingpin has a lot of slop. It has the two-piece spherical bushing which may have been superseded with a one-piece design like the upper kingpin. I’ll see what the Case dealer says.
The lower kingpin has a lot of slop. It has the two-piece spherical bushing which may have been superseded with a one-piece design like the upper kingpin. I’ll see what the Case dealer says.