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tightening procedure for budd wheels

C

coastlogger

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Sep 26, 2013
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vancouver island canada
I religeously retorque my wheels,budd or otherwise, after a change but what about the inner nuts?Seems to me they could be loose or not real tight, due to a seating issue or ? and I wouldnt know. I figured out that if I loosen off one outer nut at a time, check or tighten inner nut, then retighten outer nut and move on to next one, that would be a way of checking this. Does anyone ever do this and or is it necessary I wonder.. I read up on the subject a bit but found nothing that related to checking inner nut tightness.
 
Truck Shop

Truck Shop

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Once inner thimble is tight then outer nut is torqued it doesn't really have a chance to loosen unless wrong length/bottomed out on stud before wheel contact or cracked wheel.
 
C

coastlogger

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vancouver island canada
it just seems to me that when retorquing wheels after a change,the gain is not because nuts backed off but rather because rims seated a bit ie dust and grime that may have prevented 100 percent seating has somehow disappeared and you get a bit more on each nut.id think this would apply to inner nuts as well?
 
John C.

John C.

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We never worried about torque on Budd wheels way back when. I've never had a problem or heard of a problem with them. We did spend a lot of time and used the torque wrenches on spoked wheels. I've seen plenty of those on the road running outside of the vertical line. I've had a few also keep spinning when the brakes were applied. It gets the valve stems in real short order.
 
D

DB2

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Winnipeg MB Canada
I’ve seen the inners loose and the rims cracked out around the holes but the outers were tight to the studs.
Probably not tight enough to begin with.
 
O

Old Doug

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I have been around the shop were i work on and off for 37 years. They have had more problems after they started using a torque wrench then they did before. Its not because some one forgot its ether fatigue,wear,abuse or over load.
 
DMiller

DMiller

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Stack lug budds were always hammer until stopped turning with a 1", either studs would fail or outer nuts came loose or the moron swinging the gun failed to check how much rust buildup was on the nuts and studs where would not fully tighten to wheel. Can remember the old cheapskate Super Truckers buying a "Budd Wrench" so could change their own tires, gear drive reduction set up with a lot of bars and pipe handles, most ended up sold unused to the next cheapskate or when rusted solid chucked in iron bin when figured out was that magic four letter word to use.
 
DMiller

DMiller

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Minnesota Mags as TS notes we would roll the wheels/hub while snugging use a socket or hammer to 'Align' rims on the hubs keep the off center rock and roll to a minimum, once straight and well set with a half inch would finish setting them tight with a 3/4" gun not had problems. Saw numerous where on rears the spacer needed upsizing as lugs would bottom, again the penny pinchers would argue too expensive and would eventually spin the wheels shear the valve stems and complain no one told them could do that. WHEN and not if they would spin hubs were junk from slippage cutting back slope.
 
5

56wrench

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some problems with the budd wheels arose when guys switched from steel wheels to alcoa. the aluminum rims sometimes needed longer studs for more thread engagement and the inner nuts also needed threads right to the end of the opening in the nut. also, if switching back to steel, the installer had to make sure that the inner nut did not bottom out on the stud before the nut tightened to the wheel. most tire shops are notorious for not checking for the proper nut/stud combination because they rarely work on the old budd wheels anymore
 
DMiller

DMiller

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There were actually a Stair Stepped Alcoa Wheel Inner Nut the shoulder flange of which was close to an 1/8" above the end of the nut internal threaded section with a longer outer thread zone for the outer nut to ride.. Factory hubs for strictly aluminum wheels were notably longer. Still remember Corn Queen Aluminum Steering hubs would not accommodate Alloy Wheels as studs were too short then had issues with cracked Aluminum steer hubs which were warranty replaced with steels where those came with longer Budd Studs too.
 
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