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Volvo A25c project

Jam

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Joined
Nov 11, 2009
Messages
209
Location
Cork, Ireland
Occupation
Building contractor
I moved the pump timing to 14degrees and also found a pin hole in the air pipe coming from intake manifold to pump. Engine revs up now but is clearly under load. If you hold the revs up the transmission temperature climbs steadily. Would it be possible that the retarder in the box is stuck on?
 

Cmark

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2009
Messages
3,176
Location
Australia
Not certain about the specific retarder on an A35 but I would expect it to work on the output side of the transmission and so only create heat when the truck is moving. The majority of heat in a powershift transmission is usually generated by the torque converter.

Possible scenarios for unexpected TQ stall are transmission in gear but parking brake stuck on, (but you would then notice the machine straining against the brake,) or, transmission has multiple incorrect clutch packs engaged at the same time.

Looking at the gauges, would you say the transmission temp is coming up independently or is the engine temp dragging the tranny up with it?
 

Jam

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2009
Messages
209
Location
Cork, Ireland
Occupation
Building contractor
If you open the throttle the trans temp rises up first and the engine temp follows after a while. If the trans temp is at 40 degrees and you press throttle I can watch it rise steadily until I leave it back to idle. If I leave off the handbrake she will roll freely so it's not fighting against a gear I think.
 

Jam

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2009
Messages
209
Location
Cork, Ireland
Occupation
Building contractor
I had the two front facing hydraulic pumps off alright to get the sump down.
 

Jam

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2009
Messages
209
Location
Cork, Ireland
Occupation
Building contractor
Thanks Nige. After a lot of head scratching and messing about it turned out to be a stuck electric solenoid in front of the windscreen sending an air supply down to the retarder relay keeping it turned on. Once I disconnected the air supply everything is perfect so must get a new solenoid to get the retarder working again. All I can say is thank god for service manuals:)
 

tctractors

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
2,383
Location
Worc U.K.
The retarder control is very simple so it might be worth checking out the foot control as this could be your issue, the mag valve needs to have electrical power to energize the air spool going to the retarder valve on the gear case, this would be a rare fault to have on a dumper, no doubt when you had the 2 front pumps off the drive case you looked at the screen filter behind the plug on the drive case? the retarder warning light on the display should have helped you spot the fault showing retarder on, I would always go through all the controls, warning lights and fuses on a service/repair job, the mag coils (solenoid) when faulty just don't work? did this dumper get the big engine rebuild due to a "Tarder Fault" in the very start, the G/Box usually lasts around the 16'000 18'000 hours on A25C's, they are 1 of the easy ones to remove/replace compared to the later series dumpers but they are still pigs to tackle, I do have the trolley frame for gearbox removal on Volvo Dumpers, the last time I used it was on an A30 about 4 years ago.
tctractors
 

Jam

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2009
Messages
209
Location
Cork, Ireland
Occupation
Building contractor
My problem seems to be this solenoid. I don't know is it because she was parked for a long time but it's not seating properly. Even with the plug off its still leaving an air supply down to the retarder. There seems to be two regulators feeding it. Would that be for the two retarder strength levels? Other that this she is getting close to a trial run!
 

Jam

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2009
Messages
209
Location
Cork, Ireland
Occupation
Building contractor
Just another small update. The dumper has around 60hrs on the engine and seems to be going well. I put a new solenoid in for the retarder so that's working properly now too. Couple of small things like a leaking sight glass in the hydraulic tank and a hole in the exhaust box to sort out when it comes back to the yard but overall I'm very happy so far.
 

Jam

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Joined
Nov 11, 2009
Messages
209
Location
Cork, Ireland
Occupation
Building contractor
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

Changed out the handbrake disk with pads and a new exhaust box.
 

Jam

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2009
Messages
209
Location
Cork, Ireland
Occupation
Building contractor
Just wrapping this up lads. Thanks for all the help with it. Finally got the last few small bits sorted out and got her painted. Painted the cab frame black to be a bit different and made a set of back mud flaps. Overall I'm very happy with the result
 

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ETMF 58 White

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2011
Messages
184
Location
SEC West
Did you do an in-frame overhaul on the engine? Looks like I’m going to have to overhaul mine and I’m hoping I don’t need to pull the engine. Mine just started putting antifreeze in the oil and also pushing antifreeze out the coolant tank so I guess I have something going on in there. Where can I get a shop manual to guide me in this process?
 

Jam

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2009
Messages
209
Location
Cork, Ireland
Occupation
Building contractor
Easy to work on in frame. A lovely straightforward engine
Did you do an in-frame overhaul on the engine? Looks like I’m going to have to overhaul mine and I’m hoping I don’t need to pull the engine. Mine just started putting antifreeze in the oil and also pushing antifreeze out the coolant tank so I guess I have something going on in there. Where can I get a shop manual to guide me in this process?
 

ETMF 58 White

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2011
Messages
184
Location
SEC West
Easy to work on in frame. A lovely straightforward engine
I did find a shop manual from Volvo for the engine. In the section that deals with setting the liners, am I reading it correctly that if there is no damage to the liner seats, and if liner height can be adjusted with shims, that it is very possible that I won’t have to mill the bores at all? Because I don’t have the tool to do that and don’t know who does. I really don’t know how to do this rebuild job, but I’m thinking I can learn as I go since it’s a wintertime project. I’m thinking about just tearing it all down myself then hiring a real mechanic to do the technical parts of it.
 
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