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Case 1155D trackloader Hydraulic issue

Clear2Grade

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Dec 30, 2020
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Joplin MO
I recently bought me a Case 1155d track loader. It is a low hour machine with less then 1000 hours. hr meter is broken but the machine has no wear on it so i assume something is not wore out to be my issue. When i 1st got it the thing ran like a top with lots of power. The other day i was running it and i noticed out of the blue my bucket curl lost power. Everything else worked just fine but would not curl a full bucket. After a couple hours i noticed i got my curl power back but now it has no loader arm lifting power. it will not lift up off the ground at idle. If i rev it up tp about 2000 rpm the bucket lifts slowly but only goes up about half way. If i curl bucket up or try and close my clam shell why lifting i get all my power back and works like normal. Fluid looks pretty good but I'm going to drain tank and replace the fluid along with the filters. Anybody have any idea what my issue may be? I'm thinking my issue is in my valves but I'm not sure. I would like to have a idea before i start tearing into it.
 

melben

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I'm betting the sensor check o rings in the loader control valves have failed, that usually is what the issue is when you get power back in other circuits when another is against relief. Maybe someone can post pics but sensor checks are normally behind flush standard flat screwdriver plugs, My advice would be to get Case O Rings, I believe garden variety ones are to soft for that application.
 

Clear2Grade

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Joplin MO
I'm betting the sensor check o rings in the loader control valves have failed, that usually is what the issue is when you get power back in other circuits when another is against relief. Maybe someone can post pics but sensor checks are normally behind flush standard flat screwdriver plugs, My advice would be to get Case O Rings, I believe garden variety ones are to soft for that application.
Do you know if you tighten the plugs until they wont go anymore. or do they got to be set back to a certain spot?
 

alrman

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You need to remove the plugs which are the shuttle valve, meaning that there is a small ball bearing (#18) that WILL fall out when you remove the valve to replace the orings (#16,#17).

CNH KIT PART NUMBER - R30185 - you should reseal all the sections -

**TIP .... be seated when asking the price....

You will need to remove the operator seat & a rectangular panel behind the control valve to gain access

**TIP - Remember to keep control of your balls :rolleyes:

1150G hyd valve section.png
 
Last edited:

melben

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You need to remove the plugs which are the shuttle valve, meaning that there is a small ball bearing (#18) that WILL fall out when you remove the valve to replace the orings (#16,#17).

CNH KIT PART NUMBER - R30185 - you should reseal all the sections -

**TIP .... be seated when asking the price....

You will need to remove the operator seat & a rectangular panel behind the control valve to gain access

**TIP - Remember to keep control of your balls :rolleyes:

View attachment 231476
ALR, failure of many to do that has caused much grief over the ages!
 

Clear2Grade

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Joined
Dec 30, 2020
Messages
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Location
Joplin MO
You need to remove the plugs which are the shuttle valve, meaning that there is a small ball bearing (#18) that WILL fall out when you remove the valve to replace the orings (#16,#17).

CNH KIT PART NUMBER - R30185 - you should reseal all the sections -

**TIP .... be seated when asking the price....

You will need to remove the operator seat & a rectangular panel behind the control valve to gain access

**TIP - Remember to keep control of your balls :rolleyes:

View attachment 231476
do all sections take the same part number? i found a place online with that part number. the price is not bad. found it for $25. cheap compared to what it normally cost me to fix things but then again if its just o rings then its really expensive
 

Clear2Grade

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Joplin MO
A00B440F-22C7-45A1-99B5-DB640140B410.jpeg 08B6CDA9-5307-4CB4-9D2A-C7EEEAED5CE6.jpeg A00B440F-22C7-45A1-99B5-DB640140B410.jpeg
@Clear2Grade
Yes, all the sections use the same shuttle valve kits.
Well i got one out and it had a bad o ring on it. Ordered 2 seal kits. Replaced the one and it fixed it on that section. Went to pull the other one and it was stuck good. Had to use a punch and hammer to spin it out. Only issue is it broke part of the head off. So now i got to find a new valve if you know where i could find one? Also the kit came with 3 seals. Mine only had 2 and the diagram in the parts book only shows 2. Do i not use the 3rd one or does it go somewhere else?
 

alrman

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Oh! That's not good....
You will need to contact the CNH dealer again or try some wrecking yards that would be willing to sell just that piece - likely they will want to sell you the entire valve, if they have one...
850B/C/D; 1150B/C/D/E; 1450B; 1550 all use the same type of valve
Original part number for the shuttle valve body is A47210 which now subs to 86018333
CNH dealer would be who I would call first.

They always supply that third quadring - that is not required.
 

Clear2Grade

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Joplin MO
Oh! That's not good....
You will need to contact the CNH dealer again or try some wrecking yards that would be willing to sell just that piece - likely they will want to sell you the entire valve, if they have one...
850B/C/D; 1150B/C/D/E; 1450B; 1550 all use the same type of valve
Original part number for the shuttle valve body is A47210 which now subs to 86018333
CNH dealer would be who I would call first.

They always supply that third quadring - that is not required.

Ended up replacing the orings for the valve on my lift and tilt section. Both had broken o rings. Machine shop made me a new shuttle valve that broke. Got the machine all back together. Was running it and it’s doing better but it still has weak lifting power. Engine wide open it barley lifts full bucket. At idle if i try to lift the bucket it falls down. If i pull clam lever why lifting bucket it gets power back and works like it should. I decided to change seals in the clam shuttle valve. This time i bought 3 of the updated shuttle valves and seals and replaced them in all 3 sections. I also drained fluid and changed filters. Still same issue. It works fine when cold but after 2-3 mins of running it the fluid warms up and my issues is back. I see in my parts book the valve sections have a shuttle valve in the bottom. I’m thinking maybe one of them may have a bad oring?
 

alrman

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In the above diagram item #22 is a load check valve & #23 spring - check that first.
The lower shuttle valve is also shown in that diagram - to remove them you need to remove the spool retaining cap which maybe a challenge with the valve body still fitted to the machine.
I have very rarely if ever found those seals blown ..... but there is always a first time.

That new shuttle valve plug that was fabricated - is that fitted to the lift section? If so, have you tried to swap it to another section & see what happens?
I hope you did keep control of those balls....
 

Clear2Grade

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I was in a hurry to get machine back and case dealer said they couldn’t get that valve any more. So i had that valve made. Cost me $230. Still had some issues so i was thinking it may be the valve i had made or the o rings on the clam valve. I gave the dealer the new part number you gave me and they was able to get them. The valve with seals was $45. Just The seals was $35. So i needed up buying 3 new valves and putting them in. They are Allen heads so it’ll be way easier for me or the next guy to take out. I even bought extra balls in case i dropped one. The 1st time i almost dropped one. And didn’t want to risk it the 2nd time so i ordered extra balls with the valves. I will pull the check valve and inspect it. What should i be looking for normally?
 

alrman

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Re the load check valve - I have seen broken springs & once I have found a broken poppet.
The poppets are quite strongly made, how it broke & what exactly was the symptom I can't recall - but definitely worth a look.

Who can figure CNH's parts pricing???? o_O
 

Clear2Grade

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When you put the load check valve back in does it screw all the way in until it won’t go any more like a regular bolt or does screwing it in farther or less change anything?
 

alrman

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The plug that retains the spring & valve/poppet is just that, a plug - so you install & tighten.
 

alrman

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I would now check the lower shuttle valve seals.
Be careful removing the cap, because it has ball bearings in it too for the bucket float mechanism.
Hopefully you can get it out without removing the entire loader control valve.....
 
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