• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

Saw or Shear

Old Doug

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2013
Messages
4,534
Location
Mo
I have alot of evergreens to get rid of 4 inch and smaller. I have a case 1830 i will build a strait saw or shear . I am not worried about the stumps witch is better? I think the saw could be long and keep you out of the limbs.
 

phil314

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Messages
358
Location
Otsego, Mn
Occupation
Instigator of Choas
For 4 inch or smaller, I'd build a shear similar to this. Teeth on one side, blade on the other.
You'd be able to grab some trees and pull them out by the roots, leaving no stump.
For larger tree, you can't pull out, then just chop them off low to the ground.
Shear seems more versatile than a saw to me.

wildcathydraulictreeshear-8.jpg
 

mowingman

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2010
Messages
1,236
Location
SE Ohio
Occupation
Retired
We looked at both options several years ago and ended up with a circular saw attachment for our CTL. I forget what brand it is, but the saw is mounted on a long arm and there is also a push bar out by the saw. We have used this now for almost 10 years on and off. It is much faster than a shear, and allows us to reach under limbs to get to the trunk. We can cut limbs off up pretty high, as well as cut the trunks any height we can reach. Usually we just cut them right above the ground, although we do sometimes cut them at or in the dirt. The dirt will dull the teeth pretty quickly, but the teeth are easy to replace with a hammer, screwdriver, and Allen wrench. I would vote for the saw.
Jeff
 

KSSS

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2005
Messages
4,333
Location
Idaho
Occupation
excavation
An 1830 is not going to have a lot of aux. flow or psi. (I would guess you would have sub 14 gpm and 2K psi). Your not cutting a 24" tree but you would want to select an appropriate hyd motor for the limited specs on the 1830. A shear would be more simple for a machine like that to build. Put a rack on the front, push the tree over slightly using the rack and shear the truck.
 

colson04

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2016
Messages
2,086
Location
Delton, Michigan
We looked at both options several years ago and ended up with a circular saw attachment for our CTL. I forget what brand it is, but the saw is mounted on a long arm and there is also a push bar out by the saw. We have used this now for almost 10 years on and off. It is much faster than a shear, and allows us to reach under limbs to get to the trunk. We can cut limbs off up pretty high, as well as cut the trunks any height we can reach. Usually we just cut them right above the ground, although we do sometimes cut them at or in the dirt. The dirt will dull the teeth pretty quickly, but the teeth are easy to replace with a hammer, screwdriver, and Allen wrench. I would vote for the saw.
Jeff

Do you have any pictures of this?
 

mowingman

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2010
Messages
1,236
Location
SE Ohio
Occupation
Retired
Ours is a Dougherty Turbo Saw. I do not have any photos I can find, but you can check out the website for Turbo Saw. I believe they have one now where the head pivots, but ours is a fixed, horizontal head. Of course, you can raise and tilt the loader arms/linkage to cut at different angles. They did not have the tilting arms or heads back when we got ours. We have been using the saw on a T300 Bobcat CTL, low flow. Ours looks just like the one on their website that they have mounted on a "V420"? Gehl
Jeff
 
Last edited:

hvy 1ton

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2006
Messages
1,945
Location
Lawrence, KS
I don't think an 1830 is going to run any saw well. 4" cedars shouldn't have long enough branches to be a problem for a shear. I don't normally have branches trying to high five the door until around 10". If you go with a shear, I would recommend one that holds the cut trees. Makes it easy to make piles or bunches.

Ours is a Dougherty Turbo Saw.
Dougherty makes a hell of a saw. I've played with one that used quadco teeth. If I had a high flow machine and the money, I would have one for big cedars.
 

KSSS

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2005
Messages
4,333
Location
Idaho
Occupation
excavation
A straight saw blade? Hmmm I guess that is A way.
 

mowingman

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2010
Messages
1,236
Location
SE Ohio
Occupation
Retired
That would be sooooo slowwwww. Probably would work though, given enough time.
Jeff
 

Jonas302

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2015
Messages
1,198
Location
mn
Thats what I was thinking to kinda like a rome blade just a lot smaller I've seen them but havent been able to locate a pic
4" and under I would wait till it was froze and shear them with my bucket
 

Old Doug

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2013
Messages
4,534
Location
Mo
Thats what I was thinking to kinda like a rome blade just a lot smaller I've seen them but havent been able to locate a pic
4" and under I would wait till it was froze and shear them with my bucket
It would be simple to build a V cutter or something to go on the bucket.
 

old-iron-habit

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2012
Messages
4,233
Location
Moose Lake, MN
Occupation
Retired Cons't. Supt./Hospitals
It would be simple to build a V cutter or something to go on the bucket.

There is a fellow in Fairbault, MN that has a D8 V-Saw with jagged teeth. I have never seen it working but he claims it does number on up to 6" trees in one pass pushing with a 2U-D8. On larger trees he backs up and slices a second pass. He used to clear hundreds of acres of alder brush in his land clearing business.
 
Top