Volvo EC460BLC Engine situation/options

It is always better to put the right thing back than to make something else fit. Always those unforeseen slip-ups that waste days and hundreds of dollars. This sounds much better. Plus people will be able to fix it in the future without scratching their heads about what it is.

Progress reports are great! Can we at least make this thread 65 + pages? I've been looking for a new record and everyone's been getting their equipment fixed too quick.

Birken Vogt said:

It is always better to put the right thing back than to make something else fit. Always those unforeseen slip-ups that waste days and hundreds of dollars. This sounds much better. Plus people will be able to fix it in the future without scratching their heads about what it is.

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I'm a firm believer in not creating mongrels. I spend (read:waste) too much time fixing equipment that comes into the shop already "fixed" in that manner. I suppose it's not the tech/mechanic's fault most of the time, but is a result of pressure from above to get a piece of equipment back in production asap. Of course, that wouldn't always apply to contract service guys, at least most of the time. I'd say they would be guilty of it because of no care for the next guy to work on it, trying to make a quick buck themselves, or other "reasons". What I've determined is that in most cases it takes more time just to figure out what someone else has done to the machine than to undo it and repair it correctly. Coming from a machinist background, and in QA/QC for a good bit of that career, plus a dose of OCD....I don't have a chance. I get irked seeing such shortcuts taken and so-called repairs fail when they show up in the shop.

I'm just glad I don't have that "stuck" feeling on this one any more. It was beginning to look like I was going to be forced to buy a new engine, which I did find, but it was more than I had budgeted and I didn't care for dealing with the source. At least the decisions are made and work is underway. It appears that it may be the end of the year before I get it back in the yard, so I may miss the writeoff, but it will be there for next year.

@Vetech63....we just made it to post #63, so unless I post a lot of pictures, I don't think we're going to get 65 pages out of this one LOL. I don't plan on keeping that close tabs on it. The engine shop is about an hour away, and I don't intend to bird-dog them. I have too much other work to send and don't want them to start dreading my visits and phone calls.

On with the show!

Great news on finding a refurbish-able engine, keep us updated with your progress. always nice to see them getting built.

Kind of hate to do it this way, but it's the same machine, so I guess it's part of the saga.

Got a call to look at it today about a thumb operation issue. Easy fix, op had bumped the hammer/shear switch out and the joystick buttons ceased to function. However, there is a code set now, and it doesn't seem possible for it to be remotely related from what I've found so far. Red flashing alarm lamp atop the display, and a code "128 100 3" showing. All I find is oil pressure related, possibly overvoltage on the 5 volt side, or shorted. I'm not too confident I've found the right code list, but it seems there is a standard for them, SAE J1939. Anyone care/able to add to that? Should be a test procedure somewhere for it. Does Volvo utilize that SAE standard?

The B series did use SAE codes. FMI 3 voltage high would indicate signal wire shorted to power or open circuit from 5v to signal via sensor. Simplest thing is check to see if its plugged in all the way, check condition of terminals. Measure voltage on 3 terminals. Ground , 5v and nothing. If you back probe the wire with no voltage when plugged in and running, you should see between. 5v and 4.5 volts. Good luck

Thanks funwithfuel. I guess that's on the menu today. Supposed to start rain tomorrow and I'd rather do this before it starts. That would be 0.5-4.5 volts, correct? It's the signal correlating to oil pressure if I read correctly what I found.

Tony Just be aware some early machines could be 4 wire sensors that include oil temp. Later machines were only oil temp. As FWF said you should see roughly 5v on the supply and with KOEO 0.5v on the signal wire. With the code you have I will bet you see 5v on the signal as well. Like said either loose connector, bad sensor or circuit is interrupted on the supply or signal wires.

Glad you mentioned that, Ben. I may have passed over a 4 wire sensor by mistake while looking for a 3 wire. Right off the top of my head I don't recall the exact location of the oil pressure sensor, so I'll e digging around a bit. There aren't that many sensors on the engine, as I recall so it shouldn't be too hard to locate. Hopefully it is just a faulty sensor or better yet, a bad connection. This machine operates in a very dusty environment, and connection issues are common on it.

This one is 15 years old, with a 1 year old complete rebuild on the engine. Runs very nicely, my engine guys did a great job.

This may help
Kind regards
Uffex

Opps pasting issue

Thanks, uffex, that will help. Looks a little awkward to get to, but so be it. Didn't get to it today. Hotter fires. It's the 3rd or fourth digger in the yard, so they can let it sit a day or two.