John Deere 410 Engine Rebuild HELP

Burns-Tractors · Dec 18, 2020

OK, My '75 JD 410 backhoe started knocking, I had a bunch of metal flakes in the oil, I pulled the oil pan and I have a bad rod bearing. I pulled the engine and completely dissembled it and the crankshaft is needing to be milled. I now have the crankshaft loose but it won't come out cause I need to remove the plate that all the timing gears are on. I have everything off except the gear for the camshaft. according to my book the gear is pressed onto the camshaft so I have to remove the camshaft it's self. Anyone have any ideas on how to remove it? My book only has 2 lines about removing it and it doesn't help me much.
Any help would be appreciated

Burns-Tractors · Dec 18, 2020

Here are a couple YouTube videos I did on my progress so far

Tinkerer · Dec 18, 2020

Usually you have to remove all the valve lifters. If you don't they drop down and get caught on the camshaft lobes as soon as you begin pulling the camshaft out.
With that much metal in the oil, replacing the camshaft bearings is a must do. IMHO !

Burns-Tractors · Dec 19, 2020

Yes I am planning on replacing all the bearings, I'm basically taking it down to a empty block

Thanks for the info

mg2361 · Dec 19, 2020

Do not remove the camshaft gear. You pull the camshaft with the gear. Rotate the cam while looking through the holes in the gear and there will be 2 bolts holding the cam's thrust plate to the block. Remove them to remove the cam. Remove the lifters first as Tinkerer said.

Tyler d4c · Dec 19, 2020

You need to have the block sitting upside-down in order to get the lifters off the cam

mg2361 · Dec 19, 2020

Tyler d4c said:
You need to have the block sitting upside-down in order to get the lifters off the cam

If the cylinder head is off you can just pull the lifters out of the top of the block.

Tinkerer · Dec 19, 2020

Here is a tip about installing camshaft bearings and having the oil holes line up perfectly with the oil galleys.
It requires a bearing mandrill twice or a little longer than the bearing width. Scribe a straight deep line the full length of it.
Center the bearing oil hole precisely on the the line. Shine a light down the oil galley and you will see the line as the mandrill enters the bearing bore.
I have them bored so that I can use a 1/2 inch piece of all thread to pull them into the bearing bore. That enables precise alignment of the oil hole in the bearing and the oil galley in the block.
I usually tap old bearings out with the mandrill.
The last time I had a mandrill made by a machinist he charged me $20.00

Last but not least !
Mark the location in the block and the front or rear of each bearing as you remove them.
Some have more than one oil hole and may be different widths.

56wrench · Dec 19, 2020

some engines have 'mushroom' style lifters that only come out the bottom and may have small holes in the upper edge that you insert a piece of mechanics wire in , pull up and fold it over the edge of the deck surface to hold it up. or, you can use individual magnets to accomplish the same thing. do them all like that and you can slip the cam out. i thought the deere 4219 engines or similar were like that but its been a lot of years since i did one of those so i could be wrong

Burns-Tractors · Dec 20, 2020

Thanks everyone for all the great info!
I pulled out the lifters, got the camshaft unbolted and half way out. It seems like the camshaft is hanging up on something and I can't get it to go in our out? I'm trying to go easy so I don't bugger the camshaft lobes. I have all 8 lifters out so I would think the camshaft should just slide out?
Thanks again for all the help!

jimg984 · Dec 20, 2020

rock the end you have out up and down, and gently keep turning the camshaft, you will hit a sweet spot GL need to have engine boiled/cleaned out

Burns-Tractors · Dec 20, 2020

Yeah that's what I was figuring so I went back out to mess with it and it wasn't coming out. THEN I realized my stupid mistake

. I never thought to pull the fuel pump

.
Pulled the fuel pump and the camshaft slid right out.
I'll get the balancing shafts out tomorrow, then pull the plate on the front of the engine so I can lift the crankshaft out. Then I can finally get the crank turned.
Thanks for the help

Dave Neubert · Dec 26, 2020

Did you pull the fuel supply pump off

Burns-Tractors · Dec 26, 2020

Yes, that's what was hanging me up, once I pulled that out the camshaft slid right out.

Burns-Tractors · Dec 26, 2020

I got the crankshaft hauled into a shot to get turned and it's to far gone.
Loos like I can get a new one for around $500 bucks, one dealer quoted me $3200 for a new crankshaft hahahahaa

I'm waiting for the crank to come so I can start reassembling
Thanks everyone for the help

colson04 · Dec 26, 2020

That's a bummer on the crankshaft. I built a small block 400 years back that just barely cleaned up after grinding. At least you found a crank at a decent price.

edgephoto · Dec 26, 2020

$500 seems like a fair price. I have a friend who owns a crankshaft shop. He can fix anything but it all depends on how much money you want to spend vs. a replacement.

His main business is grinding but he does weld and straighten. He does stuff from automotive to huge industrial cranks. The railroad and industrial cranks will get welded and repaired but most smaller stuff it is not worth the expense.

Dave Neubert · Dec 26, 2020

Was it rod or main that was spun

sbarrett · Dec 26, 2020

better have all the connecting rods checked and resized if necessary or you,ll be doing it all again shortly.

56wrench · Dec 27, 2020

most shops around here will not re-size the big end of tongue & groove style rods. replace and hone small-end bushings, yes

John Deere 410 Engine Rebuild HELP

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