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Case 580D shuttle shift problem after rebuild-HELP!

Kip in Kansas

Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2018
Messages
23
Location
Kansas
Did you check the relief valve in the cooler line ?
It isn't stuck open from some kind of crap in it ?
It is still strange that you don't have that oil port on the upper rear of the case.
Here is an image from the service manual showing the oil flow.
Perhaps it may help.View attachment 228544
I didn’t think to check the relief valve, but I’d think if it was stuck open I wouldn’t have pressure at any time and I have 110psi at idle in reverse. I might give it a look anyways just to rule it out.
I do have the #1 port in the upper rear of the case. That’s where it shows to hook up the test gauge and that’s where I’ve got my gauge hooked.
 

Kip in Kansas

Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2018
Messages
23
Location
Kansas
Did you assemble everything in the clutch pack exactly like this ?
Are all of the disks in there and in the correct order ?

View attachment 228555
Yes, I got the Case service manual and it walks you through the entire tear down and rebuild process. I followed it every step of the way. I measured all my clearances that are listed and made sure everything was clean when it went back together.
 

alrman

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Messages
3,308
Location
QLD Australia
Occupation
Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
Are my eyes deceiving me?
You did install the .090" - .093" snap ring (used as a spacer) between the forward piston carrier & the forward backing plate?
 

Attachments

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Kip in Kansas

Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2018
Messages
23
Location
Kansas
Is there a pipe plug in that port ?
All references to your shuttle in the Case books show an oil line feeding that spool.

View attachment 228566
Yes that’s a 1/8” pipe plug in there. There are two ports on my transmission. I circled both of them. The one with the X on it is the test port.
 

Attachments

  • FB846ECA-7F2F-4017-B901-96C1AB7AF080.jpeg
    FB846ECA-7F2F-4017-B901-96C1AB7AF080.jpeg
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Kip in Kansas

Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2018
Messages
23
Location
Kansas
Are my eyes deceiving me?
You did install the .090" - .093" snap ring (used as a spacer) between the forward piston carrier & the forward backing plate?
No, your eyes aren’t deceiving you. Read my post about that port earlier. Yes I did actually use the .090-.093 spacer in there, even though the groove it sits in is like .060 and it doesn’t seem right. I saw someone else online asked a question about that groove being too thin and was told that’s how it’s supposed to be, so I went ahead and ran it like the manual said.
 

Kip in Kansas

Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2018
Messages
23
Location
Kansas
So I hooked the gauge up to the port on the side and I have 125psi on my FWD clutch circuit. This makes me seriously question what other bad information might be in the manual.
I put the machine in gear and it will move, but it acts like the trans is slipping. I’m guessing my FWD clutches aren’t fully engaging. I set the gap at .023 (manual says .011-.046). Would I have better luck with a tighter gap, say closer to that .011 number?
 

Vetech63

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2016
Messages
6,408
Location
Oklahoma
I suggest you do a engine stall test. That clearance should be good as the piston has more than that for travel to engage. 125 psi is enough pressure to engage. It sounds like your plates may be binding.
 

Vetech63

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2016
Messages
6,408
Location
Oklahoma
Also, service manuals can contain a lot of just generic information which won’t be very specific. The knowledge available in this forum for heavy equipment has been proven to be more accurate and precise.
 

Kip in Kansas

Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2018
Messages
23
Location
Kansas
I actually did a stall test before I pulled the transmission the very first time and it was within acceptable limits...according to the manual I have anyway.
 

Kip in Kansas

Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2018
Messages
23
Location
Kansas
Problem solved. Thanks for all the help. Once I realized it wasn’t a fluid pressure issue, I knew it had to be something inside the forward clutch pack itself. I pulled the transmission today and tore it down again. It was the fwd piston seal binding not letting the piston move. I fixed that and got it all back together and put about 2 hours on it this afternoon.
 

joe--h

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2009
Messages
1,259
Location
Utah
How long to R&R now? I remember fighting BW trannys in Jags in the 70s.
They built a problem into them that was invisible, filter screen was too fine mesh. When it plugged the owner would rev it up to make it go which fried the clutches instantly. Then all the burnt stuff fell off by the time it was apart so no sign of anything, just burnt clutches.
New gasket/seal kit had the same screen so rinse & repeat.
Got good at R&R, not so good at fixing anything. and it was warranty so didn't pay ****.
Joe H
 
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