DMiller
Senior Member
Range Shift Trans, see if that changes leakage rate.
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White-GMC 94’ STC 330 N14
- Thread starter Spud_Monkey
- Start date
Spud_Monkey
Senior Member
Those are brand new, didn’t hear anything last night crawling on top of it looking for a wire short.
Spud_Monkey
Senior Member
Takes same time about a hour from 125 to alarm goes off when sitting still. Only leaks down when idling. Could it be cause the fan clutch is engaged all the time? That’s my thought process, sitting here idling in 20 degree temperatures and the engine gets up to 200 degrees if I let it, there is no automatic fan clutch engagement I have to manually run it which can’t do that while sleeping, so I leave it on when I sleep.
farmerlund
Senior Member
Geez, I didn't realize they could do that. That kind of sucks..
Truck Shop
Senior Member
200 isn't high, but I'm surprised idling in 20* temp. That radiator is full of. hose from solenoid to hub or
hub itself could have leak.
hub itself could have leak.
Tenwheeler
Senior Member
By the seat of your pants is no gauges.
Spud_Monkey
Senior Member
Found one leak it’s in the proportioning valve under the 5th wheel, only reason heard it is some water got on it. Welp landed in Bozeman, be home tomorrow
Truck Shop
Senior Member
R12
4x4ford
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2007
- Messages
- 239
- Location
- Las Vegas Nevada
- Occupation
- aunts on the strip Currently drive a 1951 chevy pa
On most of the fan clutches I’ve worked on they were air to kick them off no air locked them in I’d buy an electric fan kit with the temp sensor not the one with the probe you stick in the radiator fins and use it to activate your fan solenoid then you could bypass all the other stuff and still keep your manual switch for emergencies
Spud_Monkey
Senior Member
More of a BP-R1 valve as the part number is 3081426
Truck Shop
Senior Member
That's a {Bob Tail Proportion valve} to limit braking while bobtail. There should be a 1/4" orange line going from Tractor Protection valve to the BP-R1 valve connected on top next to
the blue control port line. If you block off the 1/4" orange line at the TP valve and plumb into a air tank port for constant air you will have regular full braking while bob tail.
If the truck was converted to a 10 wheeler/straight truck that would have to be done. You only have full brake pressure when hooked to a trailer. That was only used in the early to
mid 90's.
the blue control port line. If you block off the 1/4" orange line at the TP valve and plumb into a air tank port for constant air you will have regular full braking while bob tail.
If the truck was converted to a 10 wheeler/straight truck that would have to be done. You only have full brake pressure when hooked to a trailer. That was only used in the early to
mid 90's.
Spud_Monkey
Senior Member
Sure... which orange line Birken Vogt
Charter Member
www.bendixvrc.com/itemDisplay.asp?documentID=5505
Apply constant air to the "control" port to disable the proportioning function.
Apply constant air to the "control" port to disable the proportioning function.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
Or just install a R12 valve and block off port at TP valve. If you can't read the to of valve remove a line
and apply the brakes that's the control port for service , but I'm betting it's the one on the right.
and apply the brakes that's the control port for service , but I'm betting it's the one on the right.
Birken Vogt
Charter Member
The service port is the one on the right, the control port (for the trailer brake valve) is on the left closer to the exhaust and set lower in the casting.
Spud_Monkey
Senior Member
Going to tear into all this Sunday/Monday, first order of the day is fix trailer brakes. Lost them going down the Continental Divide pass where it was posted max speed 35 mph, was looking for a ditch or cliff wall to rub against to slow down if I didn’t stop it after I smelled the semi brakes cooking loaded at 48k lbs.
DMiller
Senior Member
Electric Brakes are temperamental but work well when working. May have developed a short that eventually opened then defeated the system and set your adventure ride in process.
Spud_Monkey
Senior Member
I think one of the magnets went, will find out in 24 hrs.
Spud_Monkey
Senior Member
Looking at the picture I posted on the BP-R1 valve on my semi I took top left control port line off and ran a new line from there to one of the tanks. Took 5 minutes after I got the parts.
Spud_Monkey
Senior Member
Time to wake this thread up, seems a fiberglass rig isn't going to last here. So far in year of ownership I have cracked the hood three times, twice in one spot and now I have lost the left side fender that protects the fuel tank. Did I crash it, nope just washboard roads and gravel roads are killing it. Suppose it's time to break out welding machine and start fabricating parts of steel...
