My D6D

It is a bit bigger then that. The motor is that black thing atop the blue gearbox in the middle of the seeder I cannot recall what size the 12V motor is 500W or maybe even 750W I think.

That looks like a SEABROOK seeder, how is it performing?
Mine has been faultless, lived outside for two years (being used) and the seed bins never got wet through some pretty bad storms.

Yes it is a Seabrook one. Has been really great. They are not cheap though.

To try to fix the low fuel pressure, I replaced the transfer pump. It boosted pressure a bit, but it is still low. I did test the gauge earlier on, but I suspect a faulty gauge.

It has developed some quirks since I have started working in hills. On very odd occasions reverse will not engage. Going from forward to reverse at low revs and nothing although the track does give a slight jump, 1st, 2nd and 3rd all the same. It sounds like the transmission is spinning but no movement. But if you go neutral to reverse again it then goes in. Linkages are my first point of call, although I suspect something else. It only does it when the transmission oil is hot. It runs at just a bit over halfway through the green.

It also runs hot although I have narrowed this down to air is hitting the blade/rake and coming back onto the motor and getting recycled through the radiator. When dust is kicked up you can see the direction it is going in.

Slowly cleaning up a paddock. I am not the bravest operator out there. I do not really want to get stuck in a gully and have to pull the rake off to get out, or worse break something. So the steeper areas might have to get a chain or something run over them. It is slow going. Cannot push uphill.

Whereabouts are you RC, looks coastal?
I'll take a stab, around Sunshine Coast or Townsville area.
You've covered some country.

In central Queensland.

.RC. said:

Slowly cleaning up a paddock. I am not the bravest operator out there. I do not really want to get stuck in a gully and have to pull the rake off to get out, or worse break something. So the steeper areas might have to get a chain or something run over them. It is slow going. Cannot push uphill.

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Prime country for a gravity roller , steeper the better . Very easy on the dozer sitting on a ridge or cut sideling track dropping a roller faster than a man can run through trees . Wild pigs and deer leave the "building" rather quick , goats don't though , they see it as a free meal ticket .

Around the Carnarvon?
It looked like ranges, hence the coastal guess.
I was only a 1000ks out. ;-)

Been slowly making myself a thinning bar so I can kill more vegetation quicker.

The main bars are 5 pieces of 80lb railway iron 2.5m long, welded as per the photo and filled with concrete. About 20kg of 8018 4mm welding rods later.





I then initially used large chain links and some D shackles to connect the three pieces together, then on my first trial run, I only had to pull it a very short distance to see my design was a complete failure.





So I decided to fabricate a hinged design, not sure what size steel would be required I used what I had on hand and welded some 16 and 25mm steel together and drilled a 50mm hole through it. Some 36mm bolts with a sleeve in the middle and some fabricated washers out of 16mm plate to see how it would go. It all looked promising. However in use it had a tendency to flip up onto it's edge. So Mk3 model came along and I changed the chain connection to some 60lb railway line 500mm long welded perpendicular to the bar to in effect lengthen the bar making it harder to flip itself over.

The ability to bend lets it follow the contour of the land so much better.

Nice.
When I was reading I was thinking it was going to be pretty hard on the grass and scalp everything, but looks to work good by the photos.
I've been spending a lot of time swinging a tordon axe recently so it looks very appealing.

We had a tordon gang in here earlier in the year. Except they use brushcutters with electric knapsacks and only the axe on the bigger trees.

We had quite the chemical brew going. A mix of generic Grazon (triclopyr and picloram), Stinger (metsulfuron and aminopyralid) and Lontrel (clopyralid) with some blue dye.

This is another weapon I have for the never ending battle against trees.
Over the years, I’ve chopped, sawn, pushed, pulled, raked, burned, sprayed and ploughed them..now I can just shoot ‘em.
Skattergun, for broadcasting Graslan/Regain pellets.

Why the alchemy, what were you trying to kill?
That would have to work out dearer than generic tordon or velpar?
I use mainly tordon because I have a lot of nice straight narrowleaf ironbark I want to leave and the velpar can be a bit aggressive if there are a lot of trees done around one you want to leave.
Around here there are certain species that tordon won't kill and you have to use velpar, gumtop box being one.
Curious what your brew was for.
Edit- I do add a bit of granular metsulfuron to the tordon mix so maybe yours might simply be cheaper. Interested to find out.

Pony said:

Why the alchemy, what were you trying to kill?
That would have to work out dearer than generic tordon or velpar?

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We were doing wattles and eucalypts. The Lontrel was for the wattles. Easier to do it as they al go along rather then have to go back with different chemical and go over the same ground. With the cost of labour so high and I have seen more failed tordon jobs then successful ones I had no worries about paying for extra chemical if it stays clean for 40 years or more, rather then ten to twenty. A neighbour spent $100/acre on wattle five years ago and as he just used generic grazon pretty much blew his money as it is now just as thick as before he started. I am told there used to be a tordon product called Tordon 105. It was Picloram and 2,4,5,T. It was extremelt effective, then when they replaced the 2,4,5,T with Triclopyr it was well neutered.

Pictures from today.

Looks good, simple but effective.
Seems to be hooking a lot more out of the ground than a heavy chain would.

I trust that you are celebrating national tree day today RC?….and don’t forget about national wattle day on September 1st.

Speaking of wattle, I've got a new block of dirt with a species of wattle that I haven't come across before, it's called dogwood wattle.
I've stem injected a fair bit over the past few months with velpar, however I met one of my neighbours for the first time on Saturday and he mentioned that he's tried velpar and it didn't work real good for him.
In my experience if velpar won't kill something then tordon won't either.
Would you mind sharing your recipe RC, I'm not admitting defeat yet, but I might need it.
Or if either you or Queenslander have any experience with dogwood wattle, I'm all ears.

I did my bit today for National Tree Day.

I also found a cliff edge. I thought I had steered clear of the steep bits. The photo does not do the steepness justice. It slid down down the last bit.



As for dogwood. If it is the prickly stuff we have that we call dogwood it is properly called corkwood wattle https://www.ttit.id.au/treepages/corkwoodwattle.htm . Probably one of the hardest variety to kill. It is easy to kill the main stem, but it just suckers back. It seems to mostly have a limited life or 20 to 30 years before borers get in it and kill it. I class it more of a nuisance than a pest. We have never had a lot of success trying to kill it, and was one of the main reason I tried a clopyralid chemical like Lontrel this time around which is specially for wattles and supposed to have little effect on eucalypts. With Metsulfuron and Aminopyralid as well. So far what I got done looks good, but the real test will be what it looks like next year. Interesting wattle is apparently a huge pest over in Africa. Glad we could share the wattle love with the rest of the world.

You all have the Acacia Wattle there, we have a specie similar but MUCH Larger here similar to the Sunshine Wattle called Honey Locust. All locust specie here are similar in that can kill or remove the main tree or saplings but root stock will eventually sucker sprout dozens off that same dead and removed sapling. We use a mix of 2-4-D, Crossbow and Tordon mixed at equal one pint amounts to a gallon and spray the ENTIRE leafy structure that will kill the roots structure, commercially is called poor man's Grazon.

Honey Locust develop Spine Thorn appendages from Stump to Crown and can survive nearly every insect pest known for decades sprouting feeder root suckers to extend their domain. These are actually Black Locust and not nearly as bad as the Honey Locust.



This is a typical Honey Locust