A 120 is quite a bit smaller/lighter. The prev owner already dumped big bucks in having some track links replaced. My concern is even one "service visit" to press some track bits after breakage on a job will probably **** me off royally. That is probably a grand towards new chains.
What I am studying at the moment is if I can build up a quick track press so at least if I pop one, I can deal with it. You know it would only happen in the bottom of a pond with rain coming.....lol.
Or I guess if I build up a press, I might be smarter to just buy a few links and fix the few bad ones. That might give me more confidence. I really feel like that machine needs to earn it's keep first.
Emergency field repair as told by a small boy raised in the coast range of Southern Oregon by a pack of wild loggers. These maniacs are almost as elusive as the wild Rainier, though to be extinct:
Buy a couple sets of spare links and master bushings, and if you can get them separately about four sets of the spacers for the master link. Press the links onto the master bushings (or have a friendly shop do it) so they match the bolt pattern on the pads. You now have some emergency repair links. You can buy spare track pins and grind them a bit, or just some lengths of good quality shaft that will slip fairly tight through the link ears.
Emergency field repair is torch the bolt heads off, remove pad if not already separated from the broken link(s), torch the link ears off the pin on the open end, torch through the bushing and pin on the bushing end just inside the link on both sides, remove the link remnants, cut the pins back as close to the good links as possible, if the pin stubs are still tight, pierce through the center of each one with the torch and open the hole up a bit. Allow to cool, if you're in a hurry you can use water after the bits are not glowing any more. Pin stubs should pop out easily once they shrink. You may need to grind the ends of the old bushing you're reusing flush with the link surface to allow the spacers to fit in. Slap you repair link in aligning one end up with the metal spacers in the link ears, push your pin in, do the same on the other end also installing the spacers here. If you don't have the spacers, carry on like you cared and weld the pins in place. Bolt the pad on, tighten track and go until she breaks again. Seen lots of loose pads welded into place too, never liked it, but they can be cut loose and ground flat again if'n they don't crack out where the weld is.
Not trying to talk down to anybody, this is just stream of consciousness how I would do it as if I was explaining it to somebody that had never seen one before.
You can always replace just one side, then you got a whole string of repair links for the other!