Remove J.D. backhoe swing motor

I just bought a very unique truck-mounted backhoe that has a Deere hoe on it and we finally got the truck running today, only to dioscover the the only place the hoe is leaking is at the top of the swing motor!!!

I'm hoping to find someone here who has experience with this hoe and that they can tell me how to pull to two pins on it, s we can get the motor off and replace the top seal in it.

When I get it fixed I'm going to take the hoe off this old beater truck and put it on a 2015 International 4300, then sell it!!!

I was going to buy an automotive ball joint puller to do this, as it looks like it might do the job, as the center pins on the hoe have a 1/2"-13 threaded hole in each pin.

Anyone got any words of wisdom for us? How hard are we going to have to pull the pins out?

More photos ,mark photos

Good chance the pins don't have to come out. Are there clamps with bolts on the other side that hold the rotary cylinder in place?

If it's anything like my Cat hoe with the rotary cylinder I found an easier way than using the special lifting tool Cat calls for. It does look similar. I had to have the shaft spray welded to fix a leak on the bottom. Turn the hoe 90 degs. to expose the 4 bolts that hold clamps around the rotary cylinder shaft. Remove the special bolt for torque arm from the rotary cylinder. It is likely tapered so you have loosen top and bottom and may have to tap it out. There is a tapered sleeve it fits in as well. I was perplexed on how to remount the rotary cylinder and keep it level and inline. There were 2 line up dowels around 2 of the mounting bolts. I bought 2 length's (36") of 3/4" all thread and cut them in half. It was the same thread as the mounting bolts. I threaded the 4 length's into the mounting holes and while using an engine hoist to support the rotary cylinder used nuts to hold the rotary cylinder as I slowly slid it on the 4 long studs. Once I had it close I lined up the mounting dowels and pulled it up tight with the nuts. Then I could take the threaded rod out of another hole and snug it up to hold it in place. Once snug I could take the threaded rod out of the hole with the line up dowel since it was being held in place with the other bolt. I think reversing the procedure would work great for removing the rotary cylinder as well. The large pins on either side of the rotary cylinder can stay in place. The upper and lower plates on the rotary cylinder clamp onto splines on the rotary cylinder shaft. On mine the upper and lower plates are different and have to be aligned properly with the shaft splines to allow full swing in both directions. Unhook the hyd. lines and it should come off. Check the torque for the mounting bolts. I believe on mine it called for 350 ft./lbs.