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Engine Removal

Michael Caravaglia

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Joined
Oct 9, 2019
Messages
121
Location
Warwick, New York
Tx. I'm a "newbie", so I'm not always clear on the terminology.

If this were the case, then the converter wouldn't seat fully into the crankshaft and the flex-plate wouldn't come in contact with the flywheel, which it does. Assuming I've got this correct?
 

DMiller

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Feb 21, 2010
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Hermann, Missouri
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Cheap "old" Geezer
That is a Yes, HOWEVER, if torque converter is not fully seating onto input shaft and front pump will stop from bolting up.
 

Michael Caravaglia

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Joined
Oct 9, 2019
Messages
121
Location
Warwick, New York
Yup. I'm thinking one of two things. Either the converter isn't seating fully on the transmission pump, or something with the crankshaft is different (slightly longer shaft?) and it's pushing the whole assembly forward. As soon as it stops raining, I'll pull it all apart for the 3rd time!
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
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May 21, 2009
Messages
9,376
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
Micheal;
Look carefully at the drawing of your convertor.
Are the spacers 1D & 1E in place and stacked correctly ?
How about the rest of the assembly ?
Are the engagement tangs on the convertor spaced evenly and the same size ?
If not they have to be indexed correctly for full engagement.
conv.jpg
 

Michael Caravaglia

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Joined
Oct 9, 2019
Messages
121
Location
Warwick, New York
1A in this attachment appears to be the flex plate. I do indeed have the 1D and 1E spacers in the noted position.

The Torque Converter on this unit is completely sealed, with no access to internal components, so there's little room for error here. Regarding the tangs on the converter, there are two, of equal size, positioned on opposite sides. When I slide the converter onto the pump shaft, it can only go on in two positions 180 degrees rotated.
 

Michael Caravaglia

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Joined
Oct 9, 2019
Messages
121
Location
Warwick, New York
The converter is a new (rebuilt). I replaced it earlier this summer on the old engine and had no problem putting it back together. It ran for a day and a half and then blew a connecting rod that shot through the side of the engine block and marred the heck outa the crankshaft. I was going to rebuild it, but decided to put a whole new engine in. Everything was going fine until I try to put the 2 halves back together.
 

Michael Caravaglia

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Joined
Oct 9, 2019
Messages
121
Location
Warwick, New York
Thanks Mr. Sled D, I appreciate the thought. These are painful and costly lessons for me. I'm sure I've invested way more than this machine is worth, but my stubborn nature won't allow me to abandon it.

From my somewhat limited perspective, I never saw this coming. The converter and flex plate were in the machine when the new engine arrived. After bolting the new engine to the front, I rolled it back into position and lined up all of the bolts. Everything seemed to fit like a glove.

I then torqued down all of the engine bolts and didn't feel any resistance (or I'm stronger than I realize). When I went through the starter opening to bolt the flywheel to the flex-plate was the first indication there was a problem. I'm certain I did something very wrong, but I'm still not sure what it was. When I changed the converter this summer I did not encounter this at all, so it came out of left field for me. I would never have thought to measure all of the components based on the previous experience.

I will be VERY careful when the new parts arrive. Meanwhile, I may need to do some panhandling outside the local supermarket!
 

Tinkerer

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May 21, 2009
Messages
9,376
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
Repairing these old machines is kinda like picking your nose, when do you stop ? :eek:
Micheal; do you still have the original torque convertor ?
If you do, can you do some real accurate measurements on it ?
How mangled is the one that just came out ? Could you post a photo of it.
I'm thinking that it has more length than the old one. The flex plate contact point to the end of the convertor tangs would be a critical distance.
The fact that you had to use a come along to remove the convertor from the shuttle is a real concern.
Paul is most likely right about forcing the crankshaft forward and causing the con rod to break.
I wish I could see what the main bearing thrust surface looks like in the broken motor.
 

Michael Caravaglia

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Joined
Oct 9, 2019
Messages
121
Location
Warwick, New York
Realize, you guys are way over my head. I don't even know what a "main bearing thrust" is!

Before I bought this toy, the extent of my mechanical experience was tightening the chain on my mini-bike when I was 12.

The "original" torque converter is long gone. It's been sent back to the supplier of the rebuilt I bought, in exchange.

The converter i just put in this summer is pretty mangled, but I (admittedly) caused it. When I pulled the machine apart this morning (for the 4th time this week) the whole front section slipped forward on the hydraulic jack I'm using and the converter hit the bottom housing, on the transmission side, and snapped the pilot that goes into the crankshaft. It also wacked the hell outa the flex plate.

It doesn't help that I'm working outside in a field of dirt. Well, mud at the moment as we're having a lot of rain here right now.

I'm holding up the flywheel side of the engine with a single floor jack and rolling the whole front end, including engine, around on a piece of plywood by myself. I'm not complaining mind you, I'm just giving the lay of the land.

Perhaps investing in upgrading my work environment, and some of my tools, would go a long way toward improving my track record. Although, knowledge and experience would be even better!

Apologies for my sense of humor. I need to keep this in perspective and not agonize myself over it.
 
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