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case 1845c starts and cuts off

RAUL CRUZ

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Joined
Sep 2, 2020
Messages
15
Location
austin texas
I have 1845c and was park for about 8 months and was working fine but now i try to use it and didn't want to start. I clean all connections and and the 2 relays yellow and black and fuses every thing is clean ,
but now the started running wen i try to move the bucket up and down it stops running and wont start again
I left it alone for one day and started again but later quit and wont start has any one had the same problem
and how you'll got it fix or what was wrong .
thank you for any advice it will be appreciated.
Raul AUSTIN TEXAS
 

alrman

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Jun 20, 2009
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QLD Australia
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Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
We will need to know what injector pump is fitted to this, to give specific advice.
3 x different pumps are fitted to 1845C's - CAV, Bosch DPA (hi pressure lines at rear of pump), Bosch in-line (hi pressure lines on top of pump).
Have you checked fuel filters for water & cleanliness? Including in-line fuel filter at lift pump?

Also look under the seat, check the wiring harness plugs (larger one with about 8 wires) for corrosion.
 
Last edited:

HATCHEQUIP

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Oct 19, 2011
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VILLANOW GEORGIA
Have you got power on the wire going to the injection pump . If you do have you tried pumping the primer handle on the fuel supply pump . Have had the slide in the top of the pump under the cover freeze up and you can pull the cover and clean and free this up then dump some ATF in the fuel tank . But getting that cover and the slide and spring and gasket back into the proper places on a 1845 and it not leak is a chore . If you have to do this its easier to time the engine and pull the pump
 

RAUL CRUZ

Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2020
Messages
15
Location
austin texas
Hi the skid start the next day I run it half throttle but when i start moving forward it moves about 6 feet
then quits running just like i turn the key off here is the engine and electric full pump.
what else can make the engine quit .
thanks for all the help
 

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Vetech63

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Aug 10, 2016
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Location
Oklahoma
First off change your fuel filters. Bleed the air from the system by removing the 5/16 bled screw on the banjo fitting and, since it looks like the supply pump has been eliminated by an electric pump, turn on the ignition until you get solid fuel flow from the bleed screw, then tighten it. You may need to loosen the injector lines at the injectors and turn the engine over until each line spurts fuel. Tighten those lines at that point. After sitting for 8 months there is a good chance that water condensates in your fuel tank and the water has your fuel filters partially plugged.
By the way, in case you didnt know or realize, your intake manifold hose going into the intake has no clamp. That's a big problem if not corrected.

PS.... that slender looking item on your electric fuel pump is also a filter.
 

kshansen

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Mar 11, 2012
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Central New York, USA
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Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
case3.jpg

If I'm seeing it right the thing with the red X on it is the electric fuel pump.
I might start by unhooking the hose where the orange arrow is pointing out a can under it and turn on key and see if you are getting a good stream of fuel out of it and let it run for a few minutes to see if the pump is able to keep fuel flowing.
 

thepumpguysc

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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Upon blowing up the pic. U can see a real bad connection at the elect. pump, red wire..
THAT may be your problem.??
Have juice 1 minute and lose it the next.?? Be sure to wiggle the wires. Good luck
 

HATCHEQUIP

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VILLANOW GEORGIA
I would be suspicious of that inline fuel filter in front of that electric pump none of that is factory ,"electric pump or inline filter" and it wouldn't take much at all for that inline filter to start limiting the flow and then shut it down. Must be a problem also with the factory supply pump on the side of engine. Was this your machine before or did you receive it after it had been setting for months.
 

kshansen

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I would be suspicious of that inline fuel filter in front of that electric pump none of that is factory ,"electric pump or inline filter" and it wouldn't take much at all for that inline filter to start limiting the flow and then shut it down. Must be a problem also with the factory supply pump on the side of engine. Was this your machine before or did you receive it after it had been setting for months.
Agree on that little filter, would not take but a small spoon full of crap to plug it up enough while running. Prime system good and it might run okay with no load but then when more power is needed it will starve.

That is part of the reason I suggested running electric pump work for a few minutes to see if flow drops off after initial flow.
 

phil314

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Dec 28, 2014
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If it were me, I'd ditch the electric/filter setup and just go back to the stock mechanical pump & filter.
As long as the stock lift pump works, you should be good.
If it's not, they are cheap enough to replace, and they don't plug up. Then the big filter can do it's job.
 

RAUL CRUZ

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Joined
Sep 2, 2020
Messages
15
Location
austin texas
Hi thanks for all the advice am going to change the fuel pump and get ready off the little filter also .yesterday
i check the fuel pump got it off i turn the power on the pump and was full running out also got more question what's the max fuel pressure. also on the injector pump the solenoid on the back pump is can like under the fuel pressure line is this the one the turns engine off and how to check if is working properly.
and again thank you for all the help.
 

thepumpguysc

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Yes, the solenoid on the back of the injection pump IS the 1 that shuts it off & allows it to run when voltage is present..
u should feel a click when u turn the key. THATS the plunger getting pulled up into the body.. allowing the fuel to flow into the pump..
The feed pressure is about 5-6 psi.. I would say 10 psi absolute max.. otherwise u stand a real good chance of blowing out the front seal..
I’ve seen it happen before.. where the guy put a 15-20 psi electric supply pump on..
 

RAUL CRUZ

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Sep 2, 2020
Messages
15
Location
austin texas
ok thanks for the help i will check the power to the solenoid . now if the power to the solenoid ok at the start but later the engine running stops and no power can it be the relay
thanks again
 

thepumpguysc

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If the power runs thru a relay(IDK) & u lose power, I’d say yes, check the relay.. they do go bad..
We really need to know what injection pump your working on..
If u think the relay is cutting the power, straight wire the solenoid off the battery.. w some alligator clips..OR take the guts out of the solenoid & screw it back into the pump.. The pump has a shut off lever on it, so just shut it off manually..
 

RAUL CRUZ

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Sep 2, 2020
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Location
austin texas
case2-jpg.225509
 

RAUL CRUZ

Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2020
Messages
15
Location
austin texas
this the pump on the 1845c case skid also it as two relays one yellow and one black i don't know which is the one for the pump
thank you
thepumpguysc
 

thepumpguysc

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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Sorry for my pump questions. I was to lazy to scroll UP & find the pics u already posted..
Just incase u don’t know it, THATS A BOSCH “VE” Pump..
Relays are relatively inexpensive..
They’re usually stamped w a part #.. replace them both..& keep the old ones for spares..
Just like the pump solenoid, u should feel the relay click when u turn the key on.(if it’s working)
Unless they have 1 going to the electric supply pump n 1 to the pump solenoid..
If it were mine, I’d get rid of the electric supply pump & join the line back together w a short piece of hose & 2 clamps.. OR just replace the fuel inlet line altogether.. I don’t think it’s expensive.. may be 35.00.?
THEN I’d get a new mechanical supply/lift pump.. BUT.. who knows, the old one might work just fine.?? U can get aftermarket pumps cheap..
Depending on how that electric pump is plumbed, it might b doing more harm than good..
Is the mechanical pump being used at all.? Or is it just being used to block off the hole in the block.?
 
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