Where to buy quality cyl seal kits online?

Hey aighead, I just reread your earlier post. The tools you linked are not the best choice in my opinion. The 2 hook spanner wrenches are not very heavy duty. This is the hook spanner wrench I purchased. Not to say you need to buy this exact one, or from the vendor in the link, but you can see it is really heavy duty. You do not need to buy 2 different sizes, This tool will do the loader cylinders.

https://www.tooldiscounter.com/prod...c885?msclkid=a183b48d62dc17fd2698ebfe7931b124

The 3rd tool you linked is the correct style, but I would get a heavier one in 3/4" drive, and accommodate larger glands. Again, I am not saying you need to purchase this brand or from this supplier, but this is the size I think you need...The gland nuts can be tight, so heavier is better.

https://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools...paign=PLA&scid=scbplpOTC1266&sc_intid=OTC1266

Many members on here have reported purchasing the knock-off otc tool on eBay, and have had good luck. I cannot say first hand, but it sure is a lot less $. See link below. Again, there are other vendors on e-bay selling this tool. I just linked one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable...364332?hash=item56db0ebfac:g:EtgAAOSwkoVesRDl

Hi Guys, I am from Maxi Parts Singapore

My website www.mxpseal.com

I do repair & assembled of seal kits for heavy equipment.
You can ask me anything, free will assist your needs.

Thanks @Swetz Looking at the tools in the links I had I figured that robustness may be an issue, so I appreciate your linking to tools you've had success with! I also forgot that big breaker bars were a thing, so your picture there helped me out too (I assumed throwing my ratchet wouldn't work well)! This thread is yet another in the long list of threads full of info I need to keep in mind.

This is my breaker bar...very thick metal...you need it when you put a pipe on it. The linked file is the cheapest place I found this tool. You may try your luck at eBay, or find something comparable.

https://www.harryepstein.com/3-4-drive-flex-36-long-xxl-sk-breaker-bar.html

This was the breaker bar I bought. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DU1DDI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also picked up a Neiko torque multiplier around that time.

Caver, 40" is certainly impressive! Only thing that I can say on the down side is that it is rated for 1000ft lbs. The New Holland cylinders have a torque spec of well over that rating...I think the lift cylinder piston bolt spec is 1800ft lbs, and they have locktite from the factory. I can see that a torque multiplier would help out as the specs for the one you purchased say 750ft lb in = 2200ft lb output, within the capabilities of the breaker bar.

Swetz, That's why I was glad I paid someone to rebuild the first two cylinders (boom and dipper) as they are the highest torqued rod bolts per my manual. One of those (boom?) he said it was one of the hardest rod bolts he ever had to get out.

@Swetz I purchased the seal installation helpers you posted. They look like they are made of metal. It's probably pot metal, but it should be better than the plastic ones I was eyeing on Amazon. Thanks for sharing

Thread locker......What sort of thread locker is best to use on the rod end bolt when re-assembling? The OEM stuff is a white putty like substance, nothing like thin Loctite brand thread locker.

Torque.....I’m assuming that since a 1800 lb torque wrench is not available to most people the rule of thumb is to tighten the rod end bolt as tight as you can with whatever means one has. The torque can be calculated by torque=force x distance

example of tightening cyl rod nut somewhere near spec:

10’ pipe on wrench x 150 lbs (person pulling with their full weight on end of bar) = 1500 ft/lbs torque


Personally I’d be afraid of tearing the threads out and ruining the rod with that much torque.

Birdseye, If you punch mark the rod end where it meets the piston, and then the piston, then punch mark the bolt head, and a corresponding mark on the piston, you should be able to tighten it back up where it was.


I use the blue Loctite as that is what was on it. Like 6 drops.

Flat Thunder, I would guess they are stainless, but wouldn't swear to it. Not sure I like the idea of plastic, but have not used plastic so I cannot bash it. I can say these make seal installation a non-issue!

I don't have this particular set. But an identical set by a different mfr. I highly recommend this over those overpriced ones on Amazon. A google search for U-cup installation tool will find many,many vendors offering them.

Tinkerer said:

I don't have this particular set. But an identical set by a different mfr. I highly recommend this over those overpriced ones on Amazon. A google search for U-cup installation tool will find many,many vendors offering them.
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What's the point of pretzeling the seal? On my 580sk I just used small picks and slid the seals on and off. ‍♂️

The U-cup seal inside the gland cannot be slid on or off. It has to be folded to get it into the bore.
A pick will most likely puncture the seal.
Taking it out, using a pick is the only way I know of to remove it.

Yea, I did a lot of picking on every seal I have done so far, on my tractor, to get the million pieces out...

The silly little tool is just plane awesome...makes the seals a non issue, and you do not have to worry about the pick going through them while you are trying to het them in properly. To me, at less than $30, they are a must-have tool.

So.... just to follow up on the original question of where to order quality cylinder seal kits, here are some comments based on the orders I placed recently :

Baumhydraulics - they gave me a discount of $7 off a $28 seal kit (G109417 3-1/4"x1-3/4")which paid for the shipping but somehow the order got messed up because in speaking with the sales guy I ordered 4 kits but only 1 was entered into their system . The seal kit came in an plain plastic bag, the main rod seal is marked Hallite and is a 'O ring energized seal' not just the plain U-cup seal, I think this two part seal is better. All other seals in the kit are unlabeled but seem high quality. The main piston seal is a orange seal without the Z cut . Good website with lots of info about what is included in each kit, friendly and helpful sales staff.

Tractorstuff.com - I ordered the three missing kits that were not in the Baum order from Tractorstuff. Each kit was about $28. The kits were each in a sealed bag marked "Bulldog" from Tampa , Fla . The main rod seal is a one piece U-cup , probably not as good as the two part seal from Baum. The main rod seal is manufactured by ESP International (probably in India or China). All seals in the kit are unmarked as to their brand but have a number CS-######. The center piston seal is the type with the Z cut . Website is a bit lacking , family business, best to call , friendly service, very knowledgeable about the products. One sealed bag kit was missing a seal (no fault of Tractorstuff) but I called and they sent another kit.

Ebay - seal kit for the loader G109460 , paid $19 , vendor is reliableaftermarketpartsinc . This was the lowest quality and the least expensive set of seals. The main rod seal feels a bit stiff and not flexible as the rod seals from the other companies, I am debating whether it is worth it to even install this kit.

Foxkits.com - I got my gland nut wrench , main seal twister tool, and a seal kit from Foxkits . The price for the G109460 loader cylinder kit is $32 with free shipping. The piston seal is orange without the Z cut . Seals seemed to be good quality , already installed so cant look at them for mfg marks etc. Website is not so easy to search and find the right kits . Best to call.

I wish my cylinder kits were as easy to find and that cheap.

Seems my tractor is an early serial number and every cylinder on it would require a new gland nut and piston to use the seal kits listed. It would be a great help if I could find the kit numbers for MY serial number so I might could cross them to kits that fit without having to replace the gland and piston.

Birdseye when I try to enter tractorstuff.com into my address bar it redirects me to an auction site. Do you have a direct link to THIER web site?

I am about to embark on resealing my crowd cylinder. Is the crowd cylinder the same that Hercules calls a dipper?

NH575E said:

I wish my cylinder kits were as easy to find and that cheap.

Seems my tractor is an early serial number and every cylinder on it would require a new gland nut and piston to use the seal kits listed. It would be a great help if I could find the kit numbers for MY serial number so I might could cross them to kits that fit without having to replace the gland and piston.

Birdseye when I try to enter tractorstuff.com into my address bar it redirects me to an auction site. Do you have a direct link to THIER web site?

I am about to embark on resealing my crowd cylinder. Is the crowd cylinder the same that Hercules calls a dipper?

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If by crowd, you mean the cylinder on top of the base section of boom, that moves the stick section between the boom and bucket, then yes.

Sorry, Tractor stuff ==> http://e-backhoeparts.com/

they seem primarily focused on CASE brand backhoes.

Birdseye, Thanks for the follow up! I recently purchased a seal kit directly from reliable aftermarket parts. Prior to purchasing I called to ascertain what brand they were. I was told that I would receive Hercules seal kit. I have used them with great results in the past, and CEA_Services did not have the kit in stock, so I ordered it (paid like $10 more than CEA_Services had it for). When the kit arrived, it looked nothing like the other Hercules kits that I have installed, and it didn't fit. There were no markings on the bag nor any of the kit parts. I am sure it was not a Hercules kit.

How many of the cylinders have you repacked so far?