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Rigid vs rgn

suladas

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Even slight angles have break over lol. Ours is minimal with long ramps but at the Break over u just don’t have any control really. Like I said before we don’t load when it’s wet and I couldn’t even imagine loading an icy one. I’m older now 64 and I’m skeered hehe. Been loading and unloading equipment and driving trucks most of my life. In my teens ida drove up anything wide open and never thought about it. Funny how u learn what will hurt hehe

Yes but the lesser the angle the less the breakover is. My trailer has virtually none I don't even worry about it. 2 winters ago I was loading in the pitch dark icy tracks and I was in a rush and loaded faster then I should have I pretty much walked the machine up full speed and it didn't slip anywhere and wasn't even sketchy at all. There is a few reasons for that, loading angle is so low and the ramps and beavertail are angle iron so there is grip and no place for ice to form.

If you're only loading when it's dry none of that is even a factor, I can't imagine how loading would even be a concern then? Even loading at 45 degree angle when it was dry on my old trailer didn't bother me at all, or the big breakover point. If everything is dry the tracks aren't going to slide around.
 

suladas

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Yep that would definitely work to keep it shiny side up. The biggest thing with the breakover point is keeping momentum. The worst thing you can do it go too slow, or keep stopping. If you're really worried about it, put the bucket on the deck until you're over it, then let the front down no more breakover point.
 

southernman13

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Yep familiar with alll that. I don’t usually load it my son Does. He goes slow and your right worse thing is stopping. Break over and keep moving that’s the key. But sitting up in the cab is a much different view than from on the ground. He usually does extend the boom and let it down with the bucket. I’m just worried always about it sliding off. From that high it could be bad and at the very least cause some damage and once it starts sliding your done not much of a chance to stop it. I keep telling him to drive it on like he drives it off. Go up ramp and just before break over swing around and lift that end with the bucket and back it on. No break over whatsoever.
 

southernman13

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Like I said when I was younger non of that would have crossed my mind. I’d load it and get gone. I see things different at 64 lol
 

DMiller

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Worse aspect of any steel track machine is SLICK, no matter how dry or gritty or painstakingly clean, the machines have Low Ground Pressure just before and just after breakover, at pivot they have the least contact with anything. All too easy for just a Few degrees of side angle to slip away. May weigh tens of thousands of pounds to multiple 10s of tons and will slide like on marbles.
 

suladas

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I've never been a fan of swinging around to pick up the rear, you can't see where the front is going and very easy to start going sideways, the other is the motion of swinging the house around could cause the machine to move if things are slick. For me once the tracks hit the ramps I don't stop until it's were it needs to go. If the pads are frozen up badly, I tie the machine down before I swing the house around after loading. With the bucket on the deck or near, if it slides at the breakover it's easy to catch it, as long as the boom isn't way up in the air and the person loading is paying attention, the worst that could ever happen is one track going off the side and the machine won't go over. Yea you can watch videos were they go over, but it's totally operator error, or trying to load something stupid. Heck if you were really worried, you could weld on a really hefty piece of steel on the deck that you could grab with the bucket to pull yourself over the break over point even. But I think at a certain point if you don't want to load it, you might as well just pay someone to move the equipment instead.
 

DMiller

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Watched a guy 'Who had done it a thousand times' loaded a median sized American house and root boom section(Only enough for some weight) pulled onto a trailer, proceeded to swing the house around to point cabin to the back, as soon as counterweight was square to trailer Off it slid. Only had about 3-5 degrees side angle, not hardly enough to see the gravel road crown, weight of counterweight caused suspension to 'Lean' just a tad more, was on its back and engine smoked.
 

suladas

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Watched a guy 'Who had done it a thousand times' loaded a median sized American house and root boom section(Only enough for some weight) pulled onto a trailer, proceeded to swing the house around to point cabin to the back, as soon as counterweight was square to trailer Off it slid. Only had about 3-5 degrees side angle, not hardly enough to see the gravel road crown, weight of counterweight caused suspension to 'Lean' just a tad more, was on its back and engine smoked.

Yea that's always my fear if it's icy. A dry deck i'm not worried about it, especially because the trailer is spring suspension i'd be more worried with air. Also why you need to have the stick out to make sure the weight is more balanced.
 

CM1995

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These days I hire out all our moves unless it's our D5 or 953 that we can throw on the tag and move it short distances locally. For what we do it's just cheaper to hire out the mob and build it into the job. Actually we usually make money on mobilization as a line item in the contract compared to the cost.

The best trailer to move equipment 70K lbs and less is a tri-axle Landoll or other traveling axle trailer but that's the most expensive as well.

The next best trailer is a RGN and the third is a rigid deck with a low angle beaver tail and long hyd ramps like the old 104" Birmingham Lowboys.

Now the trailer I hate with a passion to load on is one with just a hyd beaver tail, the break over is brutal on a trackhoe or other tracked machines.

Fortunately we have 4 wrecker services here that have both Landoll's and RGN's in their fleet. One way around the metro area for a 60K trackhoe is $250-500 depending on distance. I can't own a lowboy for that.

All of the above is just my opinion - your mileage may vary.:D
 

suladas

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These days I hire out all our moves unless it's our D5 or 953 that we can throw on the tag and move it short distances locally. For what we do it's just cheaper to hire out the mob and build it into the job. Actually we usually make money on mobilization as a line item in the contract compared to the cost.

The best trailer to move equipment 70K lbs and less is a tri-axle Landoll or other traveling axle trailer but that's the most expensive as well.

The next best trailer is a RGN and the third is a rigid deck with a low angle beaver tail and long hyd ramps like the old 104" Birmingham Lowboys.

Now the trailer I hate with a passion to load on is one with just a hyd beaver tail, the break over is brutal on a trackhoe or other tracked machines.

Fortunately we have 4 wrecker services here that have both Landoll's and RGN's in their fleet. One way around the metro area for a 60K trackhoe is $250-500 depending on distance. I can't own a lowboy for that.

All of the above is just my opinion - your mileage may vary.:D

Well at that price it would make more sense. The one time I moved my 210, it was almost $800 and the actual moving time was maybe 30 mins. I do some one day jobs and charge $2000 for the hoe when I can bring the hoe with me, do the work, and load it back up and be back at the yard in 8-9 hours it's very good money that I couldn't do if I didn't move it myself.

The one time I had it moved it was on a 9' wide Landoll and I felt safer loading on my tag then it, part of it was the width though. I don't like having to get out with the machine still on the steep angle not tied down, be worried about it sliding off when you're putting the deck back, or when you raise the deck to unload if the tracks are iced up.
 

hvy 1ton

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I agree with @CM1995 that a traveling axle is best for tracked machines, but a hydraulic tail trailer is better multi-machine loads.

Trail-eze makes a hydro tail trailer where the main deck can pivot like their sliding axle trailers.
1-TE70TXT_%285%29C.jpg
 

southernman13

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That’s a nice trailer right there. Yes I also sry the traveling axle is the way to go imho. If I were in icy conditions I’d want an rgn safety wise. Like said it’s very important to have the trailer as level as possible. We get in and on no problem it’s just always a concern of mine. We also chain her down before we swing around to lower the boom. We try and take all the safety precautions possible. No reason to be in a hurry
 

hwrdbd

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It's not the height of the deck, it's the loading angle. I would rather load a hoe on a 10' high deck with a 10 degree angle then 2' high deck with a 45 degree angle.

I don't think i've ever seen a company moving a 200 hoe on a RGN that owns the equipment and truck. Anyone who runs a RGN it's either bigger stuff, or a trucking company hired to move it. It's just a odd pairing.

I use to load my 225 Deere on a 8'6" wide stepdeck, beavertail was about 4' ramps and 4', was probably about 45 degree angle. THAT was sketchy and nearly went off the side once when it was icy.
We have a 20 ton tag trailer for small stuff and a 55 ton lowbed that I use for anything I can fit on it. This includes our pc 78, 88, 170, 200, and 300. I'd much rather run the lowbed than the little tag trailer. That being said, the tag trailer is also an essential part of our gear.
 

Tugger2

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Watched a guy 'Who had done it a thousand times' loaded a median sized American house and root boom section(Only enough for some weight) pulled onto a trailer, proceeded to swing the house around to point cabin to the back, as soon as counterweight was square to trailer Off it slid. Only had about 3-5 degrees side angle, not hardly enough to see the gravel road crown, weight of counterweight caused suspension to 'Lean' just a tad more, was on its back and engine smoked.

A friend just did the same thing last month ,50 ton American tipped on its bum. They had blocked the bed and dumped the bags,the block shattered and off it slid as he swung around. Called me in a panic on how to get it down after they wiggled the bed out. I told him him find 9 old 24.5 s and stack them under the track then nudge it over with the hoe they had on site. Came down nicely then just spat the tires out as he walked back. They reloaded and chained the machine first before swinging,no prob after that. Lowbeds are slippery dry wet or icy. I always bring lots of belting when im loading. I had to load my 75 ton crawler last week in the middle of a busy highway with traffic held by flaggers.It always goes on my lowbed guys 10'6" bed like a dream because we strip the counterweight.He couldnt move that day ,so they sent a 10' bed ,you would never think 6"of width was so important . Took me 2 tries ,slide a bit sideways the first times and then made it. Great fun with a mile long line up of tourists watching while they are bent on going now where in a hurry. I must be on You Tube somewhere now haha.
 

suladas

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We have a 20 ton tag trailer for small stuff and a 55 ton lowbed that I use for anything I can fit on it. This includes our pc 78, 88, 170, 200, and 300. I'd much rather run the lowbed than the little tag trailer. That being said, the tag trailer is also an essential part of our gear.

Yea that makes sense considering you have a 300 too which is more suited to a trailer like that. I meant a company that only owns up to a 200 in size. One company here has about 15 200's, hauls them with a regular beavertail and ramp fixed neck trailer. You just can't beat the speed and ease of them. Tag is super nice for jobs needing a dump too but not enough to justify sending a separate truck out.
 
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