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JD310A Backhoe Fuel line leaking at Injector

comet424

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Oct 29, 2014
Messages
220
Location
canada
hi i like to know my first cylinder closest to the front FAn.. is leaking... i unscrewed it and not sure
is it a compression fitting is it a O Ring i need or what and if its compression i guess thats not brass ones?

its a JD 310 A Backhoe
 

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Bogueyman

Active Member
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Aug 28, 2020
Messages
34
Location
CT
I have the same machine with a different problem. The joint you shared a picture of is a compression fitting and yours looks rusted which could explain the leak.
There is also an O-ring fitting above the injector that could be leaking. Let me know if you want a picture of that joint
 

comet424

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Oct 29, 2014
Messages
220
Location
canada
i dunno what a vacuum tubing but not really is or what eastman seal is
and yes i could use pics.. on what i need or what not???
 

DMiller

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Feb 21, 2010
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Hermann, Missouri
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Cheap "old" Geezer
These are Eastman seals, fit over a low pressure tube inside a compression nut as the brass one in top of your picture, Return Fuel side and will lek like screens when go bad. Dorman p/n in reverse on other side of package.

IMG_6944.JPG
 

mitch504

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Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
5,776
Location
Andrews SC
Wow, thanks D! I guess Millers are good for something. I have been dealing with those since I was 13, and I never knew Dorman made them, I thought they were a dealer item. I am going to order a bag to keep, so I'll never need another.

On edit: They are about $30 at part stores, $19.99 from Zoro. com. They are part of Grainger, and I order from them all the time.
 

comet424

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Joined
Oct 29, 2014
Messages
220
Location
canada
oh ok so thas all i need those rubbers so that just compresses and does the same as the orginal metal.. so do i just get the old metal one off and shove one of those on and then put it back on?
 

comet424

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Joined
Oct 29, 2014
Messages
220
Location
canada
so re reading things as i confused now
is the line i took off thats high compression?

and i need that rubber bushing but also the compression fitting to replace.. or is the rubber dormans so you dont replace the compression fitting.. sorry but confused
 

Delmer

Senior Member
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Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,889
Location
WI
The line you have apart in the picture is the high pressure line, steel on steel, no rubber there. Take the tee off that goes across the top, that's where the rubber seals go, and that's what usually leaks. If you are positive that the steel on steel part you have open is leaking, then you could try tightening it up as tight as you dare. If you crack that, then you're still going to replace the line and injector, the injector will be easier to get than the line, so not much lost if you break something.
 

comet424

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Joined
Oct 29, 2014
Messages
220
Location
canada
ah ok.. so on this injector where its leaking is coming out of the top of the Cone.. that i unscrewed.. when the engine is running its coming out of the top and dripping where the line goes into the Cone i removedi dont think the side ones are leaking just so far the Top piece where that compression fitting is
leaks up the pipe and out

ill have to take a new pic and send where i saw it leaking
 

comet424

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Joined
Oct 29, 2014
Messages
220
Location
canada
so where you see my finger pointing is currently where the fuel is leaking from.. if there is any other leaks i not sure yet jsut this one i noticed coming out not a fast leak but it does come out
and i notice engine doesnt 100% run right and i need to make another post as i not sure my rpms are right ore my throttle is so stiff
 

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comet424

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Oct 29, 2014
Messages
220
Location
canada
ah kk and ill have to try to get a mirror as its in a an awkward spot..
i had heck of time getting it up that far must be the paint restrticing it.. and not ooze more like a real slow drip but like if you blow it it away with crompressed air
its wet again a second later but not fast enough for a stream just just gets wet

but ill try tommorow
 

thepumpguysc

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Mar 18, 2010
Messages
7,535
Location
Sunny South Carolina
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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
when u go to the JD Dealer to get/order the line, they are cylinder specific..& pre-bent..
SO know which cyl it is..& have ALL the engine #'s off the data tag.. usually found around the inj. pump area.
 

comet424

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Joined
Oct 29, 2014
Messages
220
Location
canada
sorry the delay and i didnt get this last reply.. i ended up getting a small wire wheel the brass ones from a dremel kit and polished the metal of the rust.. so far no leaks..
no i dunno if i need to post a 2nd topic or post here.. i have throttle issues.. its not like my tractor if i drop the rpms on the tractor she stays running on the backhoe she shuts off.. plus i guess i need to hit the throttle lever the cable i guess needs replacing... but i had issues postint to youtube this time.. but i put 2 videos in MS OneDrive link..
the throttle doesnt do anything right away you will see in the video.. and i not sure if its running as fast as it should be maybe you guys know
but here is the link
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AkZ74ugB21knq1op_uDdP31n_eVC?e=pn7mze
 

thepumpguysc

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Location
Sunny South Carolina
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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
I just watched your video..
There should be a stop screw on the low idle side of the throttle lever.. What that stop screw does is stops the throttle from going to far n shutting off the engine..
The actual low idle is set on the top cover.. it sounds like it’s fine.. or maybe a little fast..
If u already have a stop screw in the lever, u set it by running it down until the rpms start to pick up & back it out 1 full turn & lock it down..
As far as the max rpm, u can’t go by that gauge u have..
Invest in a hand help photo tach.
Good luck
 
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