Battery

When I bought my Case 580B, the seller just put a battery in it he had laying around, now when I try to start it I have to charge the battery first. Anyone know wher I can find a battery and what type and size I need. My block heater is not connected anymore , so i"m having to do cold starts.

Are you sure it's charging when running? a weak battery getting sent with the sold tractor would be expected also.
You can put any battery in there that will fit and reach the cables, 12V and hooked up correctly of course. I suggest a group 31 700-750CCA battery from your local heavy duty truck dealer, sometimes they go on sale and are the best value in batteries, since you're in PA, Deka sells blem batteries also if you get there.

You can get something 800-1000CCA at Walmart, but it will be thinner plates and less robust than the group 31 fleet battery. If your cables or clamps are questionable, I replace them with the screw top terminals, studs not post batteries.

Delmer said:

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.., I replace them with the screw top terminals, studs not post batteries.

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Delmer, I have two tractors, both with group 31 batteries. One is post and the other screw terminal...

I was consider converting to one type. Why the terminal type in your experience ?

Easy to put on, easy to take off, never give me any trouble. The clamps that go on a post are always getting corroded or loose, or the cable is corroding inside the clamp. I can get a nice heavy tinned flat terminal with a hole in it, crimp that on, or just solder it, easier than dealing with the clamp terminals.

I was having trouble with the two batteries that came with my used NH lb75b. For the first year they worked fine, but then I didn't use the machine for a couple weeks and I'd have to jump start it every time. Then I tried a trickle charger on there for a bit and it worked for a little while, then didn't. I eventually went out and got two new batteries at a cost of 400 bucks(!) and got a cheap solar charger for it, which I leave always connected. Granted the batteries are new but it fires up like it's falling off a cliff now, one spark and it's good to go. My usage is about the same with random periods of time where I won't use it for a month. Mine has a battery disconnect switch also, but I haven't really used it.

Just converted my New Holland to the stud type terminal. Got new 2/0 cables and a group 31 - 950 CCA battery. So far so good.

I bypassed and removed my battery disconnect switch. I figured it was just one more place for corrosion and I never used it. Both of my new cables go direct from battery to starter. It also has a braided cable from the starter ground to the frame and another from one of the starter mount bolts to the firewall. If you have a cab it's a good idea to ground the cab and frame separately due to the rubber mounts.

I have one 100w and one 30w solar panels mounted on top of my barn. I just ordered a new solar controller for the 30w and I have one laying around for the 100w. I may just swap the 30w back and forth from a car to the backhoe. I'm going to connect the 100w panel to a group 27 battery for lights and a security camera. I am planning a switch box to open the circuit to the panels when I unplug either battery since they require you to connect to the battery before the panel.

Delmer said:

Easy to put on, easy to take off, never give me any trouble. The clamps that go on a post are always getting corroded or loose, or the cable is corroding inside the clamp. I can get a nice heavy tinned flat terminal with a hole in it, crimp that on, or just solder it, easier than dealing with the clamp terminals.

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I convert everything to top post batteries. (Called T batteries here) I put heat shrink tube on right up to the edge of the bolt hole in the cable and no more corrosion.