Case 85XT Starts but Quits Immediately

Hi SS Gang -

Rookie member here, so please bear with me.
I have a 1998 85XT with an intermittent starting issue. It starts (like as soon as you touch the key) but immediately shuts down when I release the key. I would never make a habit of this, but if I hold the key in the start position for a second longer, it keeps running.
i assume it has a fuel solenoid (although I can't see it ... probably hiding behind the inj pump). I also assume that these things have a relay (maybe dedicated) to that solenoid. I have checked the three switches (cab, seat and seat bar) and they all check out as closing when I'm in the seat with the bar down. Is there another "must-meet" switch or sensor that is required ?
As part of the riddle, immediately after closing the cab down yesterday while confirming switch operation, the beast started with all motion intact. But it only ran for 30 seconds and then back to this activity described (almost like it was on a timer ?!)
I saw something similar on a 95XT thread, but that seemed to focus on the solenoid. I just think my solenoid is having it's power cut out (although that is the next thing to confirm with a meter, I suppose).
Happy to entertain any thoughts and ideas.
Thanks,
CE.

Official welcome to HEF @Case Eagle

You're overthinking this problem.
Test the power to the fuel shut off, 3 wires - ground, ignition, crank.
The ignition terminal is what you are looking for - if good, the problem is with the solenoid - which 99% of the time is the cause & will need to be replaced.

alrman said:

Official welcome to HEF @Case Eagle

You're overthinking this problem.
Test the power to the fuel shut off, 3 wires - ground, ignition, crank.
The ignition terminal is what you are looking for - if good, the problem is with the solenoid - which 99% of the time is the cause & will need to be replaced.

Click to expand...

Suggestions appreciated. Here's what I've done yesterday:
- took a video of the fuel shut-off arm (pulls for cranking and releases for running) ... so a good solenoid
- I measured voltage on the harness (good voltage for cranking, nothing for running, good ground wire)
- I hot-wired the "running" lead to the solenoid with 12VDC to prove the beast would run and it does (good news)
- while running, I confirmed that the low pressure switch changes state when engine starts (more good news)

So, it looks like I have a bad voltage supply to the "running lead". So now I am curious about the various conditions that need to be met for the running lead to see power output. All three switches (seat, bar, ROPS) are showing good.

Did you check key switch ?

I would assume the green interlock lights on the RH dash are on? & stay on after it shuts down?
When the engine shuts down, do all the dash lights remain on?

The ign switch recieves power from a 15A circuit breaker - there is a bank of three of them together.(other 2 are 40A)
Like @Bls repair says be certain the switch is good.
Most times when CNH use the in line Bosch injector pump on a skid steer there is a timer relay..... however I can't locate it in the parts book .... if it hasn't been updated/recently replaced it is usually yellow in colour & taller than a std 40A relay...... It may not exist on the 85XT.....just thinking out loud......

ALR, I do not know for sure what he has going on but my experience is that a lot of times the 15 A interlock fuse will blow because of a failure of the spool lock solenoids on the loader control valve. a good lock solenoid will have appx 9 Ohms resistance and a bad one will go to ground (or earth as you guys say it). I have replaced many of them. We always stocked the one with the spool release threaded stub sticking out the top as it can be used in either position. will not be hard to check anyway.

I sure appreciate the ideas and suggestions (awesome forum of knowledgeable folks). Here's the latest ...

I hooked a physical cable up to that fuel-shut-off lever just so I could get the engine running and test some stuff. Engine runs perfect.

As before, 3 wires ... one delivers 12V from the key when cranking. The second one delivers 12V when the key is either cranking or released. The third wire is a good ground connection. All seems normal from the key switch, I would say.

But without my physical cable, the engine will stall soon after starting (so the solenoid appears to be faulty when considering it's ability to hold the fuel shut-off lever during running).

But my question is ... why the 2 individual power wires for cranking and running, respectively. Are there different amperages required for those two tasks ? (maybe more current for pulling the fuel shut-off lever, as opposed to just holding it ?) Would the solenoid burn out prematurely if it was fed "cranking-type" amps all the time that the key was on ?

I suppose I'm just wanting to convince myself that it definitely is the solenoid, before taking the time to remove it. It is in one nasty spot in between the injector pump and the motor housing. Thanks as always.

Yes they are drastically different amps between cranking n holding.
Hot wiring is for diagnostic purposes only.!!
If u don’t wanna spend the money or the time, just get a bungee cord to hold it up to run & release it to shut off..
There should be relays that do the switching..
IDK what the amps are..

Check the fuses in your fuse panel. Usually there is a fuse for the ignition side of those solenoids in those type of systems.

Thanks. Solenoid is now removed. When troubleshooting, the solenoid pulls good when cranking and holds good during key release (running). Funny how it operates perfectly when external to the injector pump. But I suppose the "pulling" load on the fuel shut-off lever (which isn't much, and I know the alignment is OK) is enough to a cause faulty operation of a 22-year old solenoid coil/armature. Great learning though.