Need a new battery. Single or double?

NH575E · Sep 16, 2020

My NH 575E has always started draggy. It generally starts okay in the summer but has always had to be jumped off in the winter. Winters aren't that bad here. Even in summer it spins slow but usually starts. I have replaced the alternator and starter in the recent past and as far as I can tell neither those or the cables are my problem. When I first got it I replaced the cable ends with tinned brass solder on ends.

My tractor came with a single battery vs the dual setup. I think I have a 850 CCA battery in it. Factory specs call for 960 cold cranking amps. I can jump it off with my truck and it seems to start fine so I'm pretty sure if I convert to dual batteries it would solve my troubles. I would rather get by with a single battery with a higher amp rating if I can.

O'Reily auto parts has a 31-950 that will fit in the space and is rated at 950 cold cranking amps. I haven't found ANY single battery that will fit in the space and produce over 950 cold cranking amps. Their battery does have a flat vent header so I assume it has a place for a vent tube.

I have never liked having a battery in front of the radiator. At least with a vent tube I can vent it out under the tractor. Any other arrangement would require some fabrication work. Having two batteries stacked in front of the oil cooler, AC condenser, and radiator would not be ideal IMO.

My John Deere 4310 has the battery in front of the radiator and they were known for having radiator corrosion issues from the original batteries. I replaced mine with a Bosch AGM battery with a vent tube and ran the tube under the tractor.

Part of me wants to consider fabricating a dual battery box in front of the oil tank to relocate and add a second battery. The other more sensible part of me wants to drop a single battery where the existing battery is and see if I can get by with it. I would hate to take the simple path and end up having to jump start the tractor come winter time.

Anybody getting by through the colder months with a single 950 CCA battery?

Flat Thunder Channel · Sep 16, 2020

I wonder if the starter brushes need attention? Maybe a rebuilt starter along with new cables could help you out? You could also toy with the idea of in series versus in parallel battery arrangements. I doubt this new of unit used higher voltage on starting circuits, but I am not overly well versed in this area.

NH575E · Sep 16, 2020

Flat Thunder Channel said:
I wonder if the starter brushes need attention? Maybe a rebuilt starter along with new cables could help you out? You could also toy with the idea of in series versus in parallel battery arrangements. I doubt this new of unit used higher voltage on starting circuits, but I am not overly well versed in this area.

Starter was replaced with new. Made no difference.

Fact that it spins normal with a jump indicates it just needs more cranking amps. I would not consider hooking up two batteries in series.

Welder Dave · Sep 16, 2020

If the battery is fully charged should spin the same as when jumped. Cleaning the battery terminals and cable connections could help. Have run into this before. Also check the ground cable to frame connection for corrosion.

JL Sargent · Sep 16, 2020

950 cca should do it in my book. I've had a single battery in my 310e for two years and no problem.

NH575E · Sep 16, 2020

I guess I will go with the single 950CCA and if I need more I can always add another. O'Reilly said if it doesn't spin it out of the box I can return it.

If I were to relocate and install two I could go with two less expensive batteries with better warranties. Most of the 31-950 series only have a one year warranty but the O'Reilly one is 18 months. If I went with two 65 series they would have 750CCA each and a 2 year warranty for $50 less per battery.

Toxic · Sep 16, 2020

i have a small gel battery in my 555e.(i can get cca when im out of feild but i think its 950 or under). mine will start in -30c canadian winters no problem. i do usually plug it in gor 2 hours when its that cold tho.

Tinkerer · Sep 16, 2020

Since it spins faster when you jump it I would suggest a good cleaning of the battery posts and cable ends.
You could try disconnecting one of the battery cables and put the jumper cables on and see if it spins faster with only the jumper battery.
I bought a 1000 CCA battery at Advanced Auto and eliminated the two 6 volt setup that was OEM in my tractor. It spins just fine in freezing weather.

Swetz · Sep 16, 2020

NH575E, I purchased 2 of the batteries below (my tractor had the 2-battery setup from the factory). I purchased them with discount codes for around $100 each. They are 950CCA. The battery is a 31T, and has a 1 year replacement if defective. You may have to make up new ends when using this battery, although they do make an adapter that threads on and is a regular lead terminal. I just made new cables up with a 3/8" eye and purchased the nuts below. The reviews on the battery are good. I like these style batteries and have installed many in trucks over the years. I would put one of these in for sure. I would also check all connections, and make sure the negative shutoff switch is not causing resistance.

I cannot believe that it gets that cold in Florida that you would need the extra amps. I on the other hand see temps at or around 0 and am glad to have the extra amps.

If you decide on 2 batteries, and want to put them in the stock location (I do understand you are not hip to it), let me know. I will be in my place in PA this weekend, and will take all the pics you want or need. I will also provide any measurement you want. I included one image of the upper battery installed.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...attery-group-size-31t-950-cca-31s30/2100096-P

https://www.zoro.com/grote-hardware-fastener-38-16-pk2-82-9184/i/G3236816/

Tenwheeler · Sep 16, 2020

NH575E said:
My NH 575E has always started draggy. It generally starts okay in the summer but has always had to be jumped off in the winter. Winters aren't that bad here. Even in summer it spins slow but usually starts. I have replaced the alternator and starter in the recent past and as far as I can tell neither those or the cables are my problem. When I first got it I replaced the cable ends with tinned brass solder on ends.

My tractor came with a single battery vs the dual setup. I think I have a 850 CCA battery in it. Factory specs call for 960 cold cranking amps. I can jump it off with my truck and it seems to start fine so I'm pretty sure if I convert to dual batteries it would solve my troubles. I would rather get by with a single battery with a higher amp rating if I can.

O'Reily auto parts has a 31-950 that will fit in the space and is rated at 950 cold cranking amps. I haven't found ANY single battery that will fit in the space and produce over 950 cold cranking amps. Their battery does have a flat vent header so I assume it has a place for a vent tube.

I have never liked having a battery in front of the radiator. At least with a vent tube I can vent it out under the tractor. Any other arrangement would require some fabrication work. Having two batteries stacked in front of the oil cooler, AC condenser, and radiator would not be ideal IMO.

My John Deere 4310 has the battery in front of the radiator and they were known for having radiator corrosion issues from the original batteries. I replaced mine with a Bosch AGM battery with a vent tube and ran the tube under the tractor.

Part of me wants to consider fabricating a dual battery box in front of the oil tank to relocate and add a second battery. The other more sensible part of me wants to drop a single battery where the existing battery is and see if I can get by with it. I would hate to take the simple path and end up having to jump start the tractor come winter time.

Anybody getting by through the colder months with a single 950 CCA battery?

I cannot answer exactly on your 575 but I have used a IHC 1066 and Case 680 to feed cows in the winter. I put over sized batteries in both of them. While over spec the tractor could be parked for a month. Then when it is freezing rain they suddenly ate all the hay that has been there for a month. Some extra money on batteries was cheep to me.
Always tried to plain better than that but damn chasing jumper cables in the freezing rain. I thank the high amps cuts down on starter and cable problems as well.

Welder Dave · Sep 16, 2020

If you use 2 batteries find a shop that has the proper crimper to make up the dual battery cables. Is way better than jerry rigging a bunch of standard cables. A heavy equipment dealer should have the crimper and ends for it. One cable with battery connections for 2 batteries is one advantage.

Lower cranking amps for the same group of battery is better than higher cranking amps because the plates are thicker and wider spaced so there is less chance of sulfation.

Delmer · Sep 17, 2020

Welder Dave said:
Lower cranking amps for the same group of battery is better than higher cranking amps because the plates are thicker and wider spaced so there is less chance of sulfation.

One 750 CCA fleet battery should start great down to freezing, and probably colder. Like Dave said, that one battery will last longer than a 950 CCA battery of the same size. You might get more life out of a pair of 750 than a single, but not anywhere near double.
How old is your current battery? sometimes you hear about new oem batteries lasting over ten years, but anything that's over five and weak, replace it, or swap to a smaller vehicle.

Welder Dave · Sep 17, 2020

I've got a reconditioned battery in my diesel tractor that has to be 12 or 13 years since I bought it and no signs of failing. Tractor has a generator instead of an alternator and I wonder if the lower charging rate contributes to longer battery life? I had a reconditioned 8D battery in the Cat from the same place that lasted about 10 years. I put another reconditioned 8D in about 5 years ago and it's still going strong. Best money I ever spent.

dirty4fun · Sep 17, 2020

I had two batteries in my backhoe, and had starting problems. To the starter to a rebuild shop they tested it said it was fine. I had new batteries and still would not spin it over to start. I finally found that one of the factory cables was almost broken in to about two inches from the crimp.

DMiller · Sep 17, 2020

Cable voltage drop due to corrosion or damage internally does exactly as described, replaced the main Pos. Lead to the starter on my Allis mainly due to multiple sheath cracks and gained DRAMATIC speed on cranking. old cable once replaced skinned it off where was loaded with corrosion in several spots.

colson04 · Sep 17, 2020

DMiller said:
Cable voltage drop due to corrosion or damage internally does exactly as described, replaced the main Pos. Lead to the starter on my Allis mainly due to multiple sheath cracks and gained DRAMATIC speed on cranking. old cable once replaced skinned it off where was loaded with corrosion in several spots.

I might have to dig into my 310A starter cable then. It has a fresh starter (2019) and 2 fresh batteries (2020) and has always cranked fairly slow compared to other equipment I've run. The cable ends are factory (or professionally remade) and look great with no corrosion, but I'm wondering if I don't have an internal corrosion issue causing issues. I'll look into it before winter

DMiller · Sep 17, 2020

Weak grounds are also problematic
Most machines batteries ground to chassis then engine gets a ground strap/cable to chassis.
Multiple connections lack of maintenance many out of sight out of mind.

DMiller · Sep 17, 2020

Connect a voltmeter across the ground path and across the positive path
Then disable the run solenoid and crank the engine each side
Do the same reading voltage across batteries as crank and at starter lug to ground as crank.

Voltage is pressure amps is work, reading a volt or tenths of volts across a ground or positive cable is not too bad reading a high volt (2.5 or more)across a cable or path is bad. If reads battery during crank has next to no path.

Vetech63 · Sep 17, 2020

2 batteries will not fix the issue. You are compensating for a ground/positive cable or terminal end fault by using the jumper cables. If you see green corrosion at ANY terminal crimp, replace the cable. That green is alot deeper in the cable than you can see and it eats amps.

NH575E · Sep 17, 2020

I had triple checked everything that has been suggested prior to posting.

My question was if anyone was using a single battery in the cold without problems.

Sounds like a single battery of high enough CCA rating should work.

Since these tractors had a dual parallel battery option from the factory I thought maybe that was the path to take.

I will follow up with what I install and my results.

Thanks for all the response.

Need a new battery. Single or double?

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