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another 580c project. .

TnG

Active Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2020
Messages
35
Location
Alaska
new guy here. Just got a 580c that has been sitting for years (upwards of 10). Started up immediately after I hotwired and jumped it. Got key now, so I won't need to do that anymore. I proceeded to blow the return line to the hydraulic filter. Replaced that with a hose that cost me $250. There's another return line that has a pinhole. I'm thinking about cutting it and hose clamping a hose onto it as a temp repair, but i am unable to find what the return pressure is supposed to be. Anyone know?
The steering line to the right cylinder also blew out... lots-o-rust on this thing... i haven't got it to the shop yet either.
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,367
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
Welcome to HEF, TnG !
If you have an acetylene torch it could be brazed. If not cut the line and put on a sleeve made out of hose and clamp it.
Any auto parts store will have a diesel fuel tolerant hose for you needs.
 

mitch504

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
5,776
Location
Andrews SC
The return line pressure is essentially zero, since it just empties into the tank. When the filter is clogged, you can see around 50 psi, but it shouldn't be that normally.
 

TnG

Active Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2020
Messages
35
Location
Alaska
Thank you, Tinkerer. I believe the lines are too far rusted for that unfortunately... it would just expose another weak spot. Found one of the steering lines, to or from the pump, is actually copper tube. I don't believe that will work for the lines going to the cylinders, but i haven't looked up working pressures yet.

I was thinking the same, Mitch. When the first hydraulic return line blew, it sprayed, but it didn't seem that high of a pressure. I've got a hose maker in the shop, so I do believe I will make hoses for all the return tubes/pipes. I'm not very good at bending tubing...
 

TnG

Active Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2020
Messages
35
Location
Alaska
Absolutely, I actually blew yet another hose today trying to unlock the backhoe. That one was definitely high pressure.
Not gonna half do any repairs, but i am...frugal?

Got it in the shop and will systematically repair the whole thing when money and time are available. Gonna start with the steering after I get the currently leaking hoses renewed. I'll need to test after each repair afterall.
 

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
7,525
Location
Sunny South Carolina
Occupation
Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Dale @ Tractorstuff told me his site was down but his phone works..
1800-428-8183
He can probably help u out w the hoses u need.??
 

TnG

Active Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2020
Messages
35
Location
Alaska
Anyone happen to know if the steel brake line is 1/4 or 3/16" off hand?
 

TnG

Active Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2020
Messages
35
Location
Alaska
So, I'm on my brakes. The left side came apart easy and is back together. Now I gotta install the master cylinder and brake lines.

The right side was full of oil. :mad: I know I SHOULD reline them, but I am going to put that off until they start giving me problems. The question I have is: can I pull and install the seal in place? Do I need to take the plate off? The service manual shows how to plate off, but the axle is also removed. If I remove the plate, will the bearing come with it? Will the shaft get all cockeyed because I didn't remove the axle?

TIA
 

TnG

Active Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2020
Messages
35
Location
Alaska
Left side master cylinder installed... and leaking at the fitting. Pretty sure its the threads. Have a special tap on the way. Hopefully that will fix the problem. Unfortunately, the ebay special master cylinders were garbage. Bad threads and full of rust.

On another note, found the shaft for the diff lock has sheared. New ones are $190. I'll buy one and put that on the "to do later list."
 

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outlawspeeder

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2020
Messages
126
Location
USA
Looks like we are in the same boat. I rebuilding a 580C too. In the middle of doing the brakes. My left brake is really tight on the cross shaft. I am moving it but it is just not freeing up. I think I going to just cut the shaft and press out the old and make a new shaft.

I order masters and slaves for Ebay and mine look good. (new).

From another post: The rubber line to the Slave: $10. Sunsong 2203575 on Amazon. I believe BH4497 is the same line too. I'll pick up two of these today.
 
Last edited:

Tatersmt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2017
Messages
62
Location
Mt.
Looks like we are in the same boat. I rebuilding a 580C too. In the middle of doing the brakes. My left brake is really tight on the cross shaft. I am moving it but it is just not freeing up. I think I going to just cut the shaft and press out the old and make a new shaft.

I order masters and slaves for Ebay and mine look good. (new).

From another post: The rubber line to the Slave: $10. Sunsong 2203575 on Amazon.

Can you post a link for the one's on eBay . I'm needing to do mine also . Thanks
 

TnG

Active Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2020
Messages
35
Location
Alaska
I have the app, so i can't send a link, but if you search "580c brake" on eBay it will come up.

Outlaw, you might be able to salvage the shaft if you pull the bearing carrier out. You should be able to get to the screw that holds it in even with the brake drum on there. I haven't got an answer yet on if the tractor has to be off the wheels or the axle removed to pull the carrier though.
 

stinky64

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2017
Messages
888
Location
java center ny
Occupation
big truck wrench/fixer of things
if the end of that shaft is snapped off you've got a lot bigger fish to fry....that's the center shaft that runs through the middle of the center wheel,you're not getting that out w/o pulling the bull gears,differential,spider gears/pins etc......you might as well read a bunch of threads on trans axle removal and rebuild....just did it to my machine because side gear shims were destroyed,,lots of grinding and noise when going down the road.....might want to take all your beer cans back because it aint cheap.... or.....you can remove the right side cover clean that broken shaft enough to replace small internal seal and r/s seal as long as you have it off......say good bye to diff lock
 

stinky64

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2017
Messages
888
Location
java center ny
Occupation
big truck wrench/fixer of things
oops forgot about other post about brake hoses... that line 2203575 doesn't work,original poster updated number to 2203082 but dont know if thats correct...didn,t order...I've got two of the 2203575 hoses if anyone needs them................
 

TnG

Active Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2020
Messages
35
Location
Alaska
Stinky, I figured that was in my future. The plan is to do that after the machine is operational. I have a lot of hoses to renew, brakes are almost complete, and some metal work on the fender and floorboard. I won't need the diff lock until I get it running and to my property. Luckily, there is no grinding noises or anything when driving currently.

Can i take the bearing carrier off and change seals without lifting the tractor off the wheels or removing the axle?
 

TnG

Active Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2020
Messages
35
Location
Alaska
I ended up going with the 1974 maverick brakes lines. They worked and the Napa had them in stock.

Living on an island in Alaska makes it tough to get parts in a decent amount of time. Not to mention a lot of companies charge a lot to ship here or don't ship here at all. Even Amazon takes up to 2 weeks to ship something out. Then it takes another week to get here.
 
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