White-GMC 94’ STC 330 N14

Spud_Monkey · Jul 5, 2020

funwithfuel said:
And you would have bad low/high shift. Loud clunk , crappy synchro engagement, oil slobber, grinding high/low selection.
Has it been like this since you got it, or did this suddenly happen? I'm kinda wondering if someone has the wrong length detent springs under the shift lever

It's been happening since I gotten it with less than 1000 miles since I got. I figured the engine was the only selling point and a rolling chassis is like a building block for future endeavors or parts for another project I want.

Theweldor said:
The oil slobber part is the very troubling part. Unless it is all gone. But there isn't even any sign of it.
Looks like it would hurt to grease the driveline a bit.

I need to look inside, this rig has only 332k miles on it, I feel this rig was rode hard and put away wet.

Truck Shop said:
That last photo-the yoke has been hitting the mounting bolts for the rear bearing retainer. I have seen extremely loose yokes and the rear seal doesn't leak.. The counter shafts are what's
holding the shaft straight. But low/high range should be effected in some way. Rear sections can develop
a bunch of play and still operate unlike the front section.

I will pull the universal joint and the center carriage bearing off tomorrow and see how much play, then see how low fluid is. Guess time for road trip in next month or two to Sioux SD. Also it will be a bit of hassle with PTO system on the bottom, have to plug the air lines off to it.

petepilot · Jul 5, 2020

Truck Shop said:
That last photo-the yoke has been hitting the mounting bolts for the rear bearing retainer. I have seen extremely loose yokes and the rear seal doesn't leak.. The counter shafts are what's
holding the shaft straight. But low/high range should be effected in some way. Rear sections can develop
a bunch of play and still operate unlike the front section.

it sure is hitting something . I would bet on low or no oil too

petepilot · Jul 5, 2020

I hate to admit it but I drove the pete in my avatar 6 miles without ANYoil in the trans . it had leaked out through the pto seal over about 3 month sitting . cranked her up and took off without even thinking it let me know it very quickly.

Spud_Monkey · Jul 5, 2020

petepilot said:
I hate to admit it but I drove the pete in my avatar 6 miles without ANYoil in the trans . it had leaked out through the pto seal over about 3 month sitting . cranked her up and took off without even thinking it let me know it very quickly.

Welp it has about 500 mile journey on it since I bought it so if leaked out during that trip I don't think she would of made it home and I sure would of noticed a wet spot on the rubber mat underneath she parks over. Though will double check tomorrow.

petepilot · Jul 5, 2020

if it has a mounted pto its very possible. would dump the oil from the very lowest point

Truck Shop · Jul 6, 2020

Usually the first bearings to take a dump with a low oil situation is the rear main shaft support bearing and input shaft bearing next would be the upper counter shaft bearings.

DMiller · Jul 6, 2020

If has never had a input shaft replaced likely also has step wear at the disc hub locations, those tend to drag pretty serious as clutch wears.

Spud_Monkey · Jul 6, 2020

Tightened the clutch up to spec still grinding when going in reverse or whatever gear for starting off. While down there I noticed the drive shaft has been replaced with a remanufactured Meritor on it at some point which with a semi of 332k miles. I like to know what happened to merit a replacement, that took talent to cause premature failure. Also while down there I took a paint marker and marked the wear on the bolt heads and on the yoke then took it for a spin, nothing rubbed the paint off, so I assume it need a load to make any movement if there will be any.

Truck Shop · Jul 6, 2020

Was there any friction material left on both sides of the clutch brake? Also the possibility the pilot bearing is seized. Should be some lining/friction surface like the one below, if it's metal on metal
it won't stop the in put shaft from turning. Plus without the lining it will cause internal clutch adjustment to be wrong.

Spud_Monkey · Jul 6, 2020

Truck Shop said:
Was there any friction material left on both sides of the clutch brake? Also the possibility the pilot bearing is seized. Should be some lining/friction surface like the one below, if it's metal on metal
it won't stop the in put shaft from turning. Plus without the lining it will cause internal clutch adjustment to be wrong.

View attachment 220560

Yep there is little bit of material left, not much and looks glazed as hell and flush with the surface. A 2D picture doesn't quantify how thick it should be, but I will know Friday when I get the new one in. Let's see if I can get a picture...

Theweldor · Jul 6, 2020

This is from memory but I think the material is only 1/8 to 3/16 thick when new. Since I have gotten into working on equipment there is only one thing I hate worse than trucks and that is truck drivers. Not all bad but just some can really get under your skin.

Spud_Monkey · Jul 6, 2020

Theweldor said:
This is from memory but I think the material is only 1/8 to 3/16 thick when new. Since I have gotten into working on equipment there is only one thing I hate worse than trucks and that is truck drivers. Not all bad but just some can really get under your skin.

Sure isn't any 1/8 or 3/16 worth under there. This is what is there

Theweldor · Jul 6, 2020

Looks like it could use a new one. Truck Shop will be the one to ask about adjusting things when you get it replaced. I am sure he could dial that right in for you.
Did you happen to check the oil in the transmission while you were under there. Just the drag from the oil can help slow things down a bit.

Truck Shop · Jul 6, 2020

Well that One piece clutch brake is about toast, sorry. But one thing I see using my bionic eye is the front bearing retainer is beveled {so it appears} on the inside area next input shaft.
That area is normally flat straight across to shaft. It appears that the clutch brake material on that side has been gone for some time and has been whittling the retainer surface. That
actually is not uncommon when clutch has been out of adjustment and people keep pushing it down harder trying to get it in gear. That happened long before you got it. Plus the T/O
bearing was probably not greased very often which is the only from of grease the clutch brake sees. When greasing there should be a small bubble of grease pushed out each time,
that provides lube for the clutch brake which it does need . Also it looks like there is a lip on the outside of the bearing retainer. Any-whoo that front retainer is going to need replacing
in the future.

The lining on the clutch brake including both sides is 1/8"-1/16" per side.

petepilot · Jul 6, 2020

Spud_Monkey said:
Tightened the clutch up to spec still grinding when going in reverse or whatever gear for starting off. While down there I noticed the drive shaft has been replaced with a remanufactured Meritor on it at some point which with a semi of 332k miles. I like to know what happened to merit a replacement, that took talent to cause premature failure. Also while down there I took a paint marker and marked the wear on the bolt heads and on the yoke then took it for a spin, nothing rubbed the paint off, so I assume it need a load to make any movement if there will be any.

I really did not want to be the guy that said this but here goes . we have a 94 pete with 1.474.974 miles on it im betting your332k includes that first mil. also

Spud_Monkey · Jul 6, 2020

petepilot said:
I really did not want to be the guy that said this but here goes . we have a 94 pete with 1.474.974 miles on im betting your332k includes that first mil. also

I told myself that already so we are in the same boat, it's a digital odometer so I'm looking online to see if there is 7 digits on the odometer. Seems reasonable to me though that means the people at the auction block who sold it to previous owners were lied to also or purposely sold it off as such.

Truck Shop · Jul 6, 2020

Now-I do have a Super 10 speed B transmission that I will check out in the morning, it was a good gear box when I removed it to install a 13 speed. The Super 10's have a low of around
12.33 and a over drive of .74. Some people liked them some didn't you only shift manually 5 times but you flip the shift control and split each gear. It can be shifted just like any other
Roadranger without using clutch.

If it still checks out and you are interested {YOU CAN HAVE IT-FREE}. There not worth much [about what scrap is paying right now]. But for what your going to use it for you might get
some use out of it. All clutch linkage will fit, sh!ter will fit, the only thing you will have to do is shorten the drive shaft and reuse yoke on shaft.

I will check it first thing in the morning.

Spud_Monkey · Jul 6, 2020

Truck Shop said:
Well that One piece clutch brake is about toast, sorry. But one thing I see using my bionic eye is the front bearing retainer is beveled {so it appears} on the inside area next input shaft.
That area is normally flat straight across to shaft. It appears that the clutch brake material on that side has been gone for some time and has been whittling the retainer surface. That
actually is not uncommon when clutch has been out of adjustment and people keep pushing it down harder trying to get it in gear. That happened long before you got it. Plus the T/O
bearing was probably not greased very often which is the only from of grease the clutch brake sees. When greasing there should be a small bubble of grease pushed out each time,
that provides lube for the clutch brake which it does need . Also it looks like there is a lip on the outside of the bearing retainer. Any-whoo that front retainer is going to need replacing
in the future.

The lining on the clutch brake including both sides is 1/8"-1/16" per side.

When I greased it I seen it push some black grease out, I now have some Lucas Oil high temp red grease in there as someone put a extension tube to make it easy to grease. As for shortening the drive shaft if that transmission checks out might be not easy, but I think I could get it done in Washington state which is ironic I need to head there anyways to get my stuff out the state (one day) hopefully before winter hits. I was going to get the other one you were talking about, but if that one works sure why not.

Spud_Monkey · Jul 6, 2020

After turning it off and on I can see it's impossible for it to read million miles and the hour meter says it's at 2570 hrs. which who knows how tired this engine is.

Truck Shop · Jul 7, 2020

I pulled the shift bar housing cover, everything looks good inside. This gear box is a International re-man.
It's complete with yoke which takes a 1760 half round u-joint.

White-GMC 94’ STC 330 N14

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