White-GMC 94’ STC 330 N14

Tenwheeler said:

Only mash the pedal all the way to the floor when stopped. Maybe you know all that and just have equipment problems. Just trying to help.

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And just blip the clutch after you get going or float them
My main reason to having PTSD from war is us infantrymen in outbreak of war in OIF had no supplies and lacking people to drive if we had the equipment to get around. I drove everything that had steering wheel and learned how to get in and out situations no matter the cost which lead me to many more missions than one usually does without sleep. Point being their Kamaz's and Scanias drove better than this. I didn't go through CDL school to learn a stick in a semi nor did anyone teach me, it was do or die when the first time came around to learn it.

It is normal for them not to want to go into gear when the engine is not running or when the input shaft is completely stopped like that. You may need to release the clutch just a tiny bit to get things to move into a different position if everything is at a stop and you are trying to get it in low gear for instance. The sliding teeth just sometimes get into a position where they butt against each other instead of each tooth going into its socket and just need to be repositioned. If you have the engine stopped and you really want to get it in gear then if you have air pressure you can flip the selector valve up and down with the clutch in while trying to move it into whatever position you are trying. Hopefully this explanation makes sense.

A shop photo of main shaft, counter shafts and sliding clutches.

Found the clutch brake caked in grease but it's up there with over half inch of spacing, more like 3/4. Will take the gas axe and cut it out. Got one from Babcock on the way, thanks Truck Shop and for everyone else's help. Will see where this goes and hope it prolong enough time to get another transmission that's better than this one.

I read through the trans posts, one thing to remember is if you push the clutch all the way to the floor while moving in gear you are trying to stop the truck with the clutch brake. i didn't see that mentioned before. Just something to think about when you get the new one installed. With a little practice you will get the hang of way it works.

Be careful the slag has a way of finding your ears, don't nick the input shaft with the flame.

Some years back I replaced a B model cat in a 379 Pete that broke the input shaft, they drove it several hundred miles that way to get it home. The shaft broke at an angle and worked it's way
forward pushing on the crank which took out the thrust bearings and destroyed the crank and block. The input shaft broke where a flame cut it while trying to replace the clutch brake, that
work was done on the road a few months before. Plus it ruined the main shaft in the transmission. $29,000 dollars later all was good.

Truck Shop said:

Be careful the slag has a way of finding your ears, don't nick the input shaft with the flame.

Some years back I replaced a B model cat in a 379 Pete that broke the input shaft, they drove it several hundred miles that way to get it home. The shaft broke at an angle and worked it's way
forward pushing on the crank which took out the thrust bearings and destroyed the crank and block. The input shaft broke where a flame cut it while trying to replace the clutch brake, that
work was done on the road a few months before. Plus it ruined the main shaft in the transmission. $29,000 dollars later all was good.

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When welding or running the gas axe I always wear earplugs cause I can hear the weld/cut better and know what is going on by the sound. Sounds like expensive mistake. I will be running a number 1 tip to cut it, might not even hit the trigger, just enough to soften it and split it with a chisel.

I have faith you'll get it done there spud_monkey.

Oh fudge, I hope you didn't cut it out already. Did you reach up and try to spin the steel part on the input shaft. If the little tits aren't broken, there's no need to replace. Clutch adjustment is in order. 3/4 inch is too much gap with the pedal up. Should be 1/2 - 9/16". Once you've established clearance, get 1/8" between fork and release bearing. This should get you 1 1/2 to 2" free travel at the pedal. You should be releasing the clutch brake 1/2" off the floor. The only time you should use the clutch is to get moving. That's it. Once yer rollin' you just row through the gears. No clutch. I know some guys preach double clutching, I never learned, haven't found a need. Maybe, and it kinda looks that way from the video, you're trying to shift like it's a synchronized trans. Forget that left pedal as soon as you're in motion.

funwithfuel said:

Oh fudge, I hope you didn't cut it out already. Did you reach up and try to spin the steel part on the input shaft. If the little tits aren't broken, there's no need to replace. Clutch adjustment is in order. 3/4 inch is too much gap with the pedal up. Should be 1/2 - 9/16". Once you've established clearance, get 1/8" between fork and release bearing. This should get you 1 1/2 to 2" free travel at the pedal. You should be releasing the clutch brake 1/2" off the floor. The only time you should use the clutch is to get moving. That's it. Once yer rollin' you just row through the gears. No clutch. I know some guys preach double clutching, I never learned, haven't found a need. Maybe, and it kinda looks that way from the video, you're trying to shift like it's a synchronized trans. Forget that left pedal as soon as you're in motion.

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As he said! Adjust it. The place to start is on the pressure plate not the likage.
Double clutch or no clutch after take off.

funwithfuel said:

Oh fudge, I hope you didn't cut it out already. Did you reach up and try to spin the steel part on the input shaft. If the little tits aren't broken, there's no need to replace. Clutch adjustment is in order. 3/4 inch is too much gap with the pedal up. Should be 1/2 - 9/16". Once you've established clearance, get 1/8" between fork and release bearing. This should get you 1 1/2 to 2" free travel at the pedal. You should be releasing the clutch brake 1/2" off the floor. The only time you should use the clutch is to get moving. That's it. Once yer rollin' you just row through the gears. No clutch. I know some guys preach double clutching, I never learned, haven't found a need. Maybe, and it kinda looks that way from the video, you're trying to shift like it's a synchronized trans. Forget that left pedal as soon as you're in motion.

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I was using it cause I had to stop and start, in the beginning it was pull the tree forward then release the clutch to let it roll back then wife unhooked it and hooked it back up so I could pull the tree under the cable while she held it up. Bunch of low gear and reverse is all I shifted to. A few times it was to make the problem happen to show everyone what was going on, other times is as I am pulling this 40' tree across the property the semi loses traction going up a hill so I release clutch let it roll back hit brakes let off slowly on clutch till it engages and slowly release brakes or put back in reverse stop then go forward to give it another yank. Gee I should of taken the video on a flat top road to show I know how to shift.

Haven't cut it out yet, things happen in slow motion out here with ease. You need a part such as a clutch brake or can of paint you either (A) Order it in and wait week or two for it then walk or drive 5 miles to get it from mailbox or (B) Wait till next trip into town which is once every week or two sometimes 4 weeks and get it then, need a gallon of milk real quick, tough titty said the kitty ain't happening soon or get a cow. Plus I buy parts and make sure they are right one then pull the old one. Going in town is 106 mile round trip

Speaking of which I need some oxy acetylene and that ain't happening till Thursday or Friday next week

To make a little sense of my ramblings

funwithfuel said:

To make a little sense of my ramblings

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Truck Shop posted a sticky on this though thanks for the clarification.

Found my problem, seems the output shaft bearing on the yoke is gone out or somewhere in the transmission which is reason I’m having trouble shifting after I get going. The problem of putting it in gear to start off is from either clutch brake or clutch out of adjustment which I just did moving it two spaces over. Here is the evidence of the problem. Wonder how long I got till it goes¿ Let me know if I’m right on the bearing gone out somewhere.

The rear out-put shaft bearing is a one piece dual race with inner and outer bearing cones machined to match their prospective race. With a machined bearing spacer between the two bearing cones.
So when the gland nut is tightened on the yoke {450 lb ft} the bearing pre-load is automatically set. It is not uncommon for the glad nut to get loose-How much up and down-in and out movement
is there on the yoke? If the out-put shaft bearings are lunched, then its back section off and inspection of what's needed. Even after market parts are not cheap, this is when turning in what you have
as a core and picking up another gear box is less hassle. 9's & 10's are fairly common and usually not too expensive.

if the back bearings are shot wouldn't we have oil runnin everywhere provided there is oil in the box?

And you would have bad low/high shift. Loud clunk , crappy synchro engagement, oil slobber, grinding high/low selection.
Has it been like this since you got it, or did this suddenly happen? I'm kinda wondering if someone has the wrong length detent springs under the shift lever

funwithfuel said:

, oil slobber, grinding high/low selection.
Has it been like this since you got it, or did this suddenly happen? I'm kinda wondering if so

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The oil slobber part is the very troubling part. Unless it is all gone. But there isn't even any sign of it.
Looks like it would hurt to grease the driveline a bit.

Meritor floating seal sure is keeping it dry .It's hard to argue with those images.

That last photo-the yoke has been hitting the mounting bolts for the rear bearing retainer. I have seen extremely loose yokes and the rear seal doesn't leak.. The counter shafts are what's
holding the shaft straight. But low/high range should be effected in some way. Rear sections can develop
a bunch of play and still operate unlike the front section.