Hough H80B source for parts

Have you managed to get a service manual or maybe a parts book for this machine?
Preferably both but either one would be a very good investment.

kshansen said:

Have you managed to get a service manual or maybe a parts book for this machine?
Preferably both but either one would be a very good investment.

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I have every manual I can get my hands on. Two different operators manuals, a generic service manual for the DT466, a reprint of the service book and the original 1979 Parts Book.

But I've also got a machine with a lot of stuff bypassed and everything has been repainted yellow. Discouragingly, the OEM harness has been cut in a number of places leaving abandoned wires. I'm slowly working through it. Sadly, I let the batteries go flat so yesterday I didn't get anything done because I need to start and articulate the machine to get at stuff. Today the new brake boosters arrived and the batteries are charged and I have a socket coming so I can just plug in a 24v battery charger rather than disconnect the in series 12v 4D batteries and charge them individually.

I did remove the ether injection which left me one mystery wire that I intend to find out if it is normally hot.

Minnesota Eric said:

I did remove the ether injection which left me one mystery wire that I intend to find out if it is normally hot.

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Well I would not want to make any definite statements about that machine, but.... if it is the wire that was connected to the ether injector it should not be hot unless the button in cab is pushed. That of course assumes the button is even there and the last person to touch wiring in cab knew what they were doing. Guess for right now I would suggest that any wire that is not hooked up be taped off real good!

As for charging batteries with a 12 volt charger there is no need to disconnect them. Just hook the charger directly to the terminals on one battery then once that one is charged connect to the terminals on the other battery. And actually if you have two separate 12 volt battery chargers you could hook one charger to the right battery and one to the left battery. Only possible problem is if the two chargers drew more amps than the breaker they were connected to or the extension cord being used. If you have two big 12 volt chargers you can always plug them into outlets on two different breakers.

Apparently I have a draw as the power was off. Both batteries were stones and I used an old dumb charger to get some juice in and two smart chargers to finish the charge. Right now I'm trying to get the air horn valve out which is a PITA for a fused back fat guy like myself.

I also found specs for lubes. Sorta. I need help translating some of these.

NLGI 2 Lithium extreme pressure grease on all things greasable. Anybody got a brand experience or preference?
Hydraulics takes SAE 10 hydro fluid (that seems light is that right? Its the same stuff we put into pontoon lifts and dump trailers???).
The engine wants straight weight oil. 30W for summer, 10W for cooler, and 20W cut with 10% Kerosene for cold. Can I run a 10W30 or a 5W40 Rotella year-round?
GL-5 SAE 140 or 85W140 gear oil in the steering gear housing
intermediate Drive Block and axles can take just about any GL5 rated blended gear oil. 80W-90, SAE 85W-140
Transmission takes I.H. "smooth shift" Dexron, ??? Does anybody know what the modern equivalent is? The transmission is an International Harvester S-700.
And the brakes is Dot 3.

Well oil questions can cause a lot of opinions but my thoughts from what we used at the quarry would be as follows:

Grease NLGI2? I'd say any brand name grease should be fine. To me it's more important that it is used than what brand!

Hydraulic Oil? I would probably go with a name brand AW46 oil. Which is slightly heavier than a straight SAE10

Engine oil? Again name brand oil. Like Rotella 15W-40

Gear oil? GL-5 85W90

Dexron is another story. Some reading: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DEXRON
From what I understand something like this:
https://www.castrol.com/en_cr/ccsa/...ransmission-fluids.html#tab_transmax-dex-merc
Should be good. If you have a commercial oil supplier it would be good to check with them.

NLGI2 Grease, I guess I need to find something in a pail.

Is Shell's 5W-40 T6 too thin for the engine? I have gallons of that on hand.



I called General Equipment in Fargo, asking about IH "smooth shift" Dexron and spoke with Ryan. Ryan confirmed that I should not use modern Dexron as those are all formulated for cars and light trucks. He suggested an Allison C4 spec oil going on to suggest Shell Spirax S4 TXM or generic Chevron 1000 series. That said, Ryan wasn't exactly certain what the cross-reference is. I am, heading into town to my farm-centric NAPA to ask questions.

While trying to find the tranny oil, I found online publications.

Hough H80B Parts manual. http://www.tractorparts.com/PDFs/HOUGH_H80B_WHEEL_LOADER_3U0001601_UP.pdf

Down at the bottom of page, parts manuals for piles of Hough equipment. http://www.steeringclutch.com/transmissiondiscsIHHOUGHKOMATSU.htm

I think I'd talk to an equipment dealer before I went to Napa for advice on oil for heavy equipment transmissions. I think the Shell Spirax is a universal tractor fluid. Good stuff but may not be equivalent for what your loader requires.

Minnesota Eric said:

NLGI2 Grease, I guess I need to find something in a pail.

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Not sure why you would need to get the grease in a pail we had Mobil NLGI-2 in tubes I'm sure other do too!

Minnesota Eric said:

Is Shell's 5W-40 T6 too thin for the engine? I have gallons of that on hand..

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Guess I would check with Shell Oil Company to see what they say. I only ever used 15W40 in the equipment at the quarry as that is what the Mobil Rep. agreed to with the corporate level maintenance guy.

Minnesota Eric said:

I called General Equipment in Fargo, asking about IH "smooth shift" Dexron and spoke with Ryan. Ryan confirmed that I should not use modern Dexron as those are all formulated for cars and light trucks. He suggested an Allison C4 spec oil going on to suggest Shell Spirax S4 TXM or generic Chevron 1000 series. That said, Ryan wasn't exactly certain what the cross-reference is.

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Well all I know is Dexron was the recommended oil for use in that transmission when it was new. I do know that there are many different versions of Dexron nowadays as you can read in the link I posted. I guess if it was mine I would get in touch with a real oil company rep. and not take to word of someone who may or may not know anything about oil. I would make sure the rep is made aware that the Dexron that was suggested for this application was referring to Dexron as it was known in the early 1970's! That could be a critical point in what is suggested.

Follow-up. I called Dexron. I called Shell Oil. I called and emailed Lubesoil. I called Case IH. I called Komatsu. I called my local Komatsu dealer. I called my local Case IH dealer.

The results are.

Probably be able to run universal transmission oil like a 10W.
Maybe use an Allison C4 spec oil going on to suggest Shell Spirax S4 TXM or generic Chevron 1000 series as noted above.
Case IH dealer said they used Case TCH or Type A Automatic Transmission Fluid, Hytran MAT3506 but I could not confirm the Case W80 wheel loader uses the same S-700 transmission as my Hough H80-B.
Lubesoil said that Dexron II was the spec oil at the time. I presume this is Dexron II type C since Dexron first came out in 1971.



I'm still not certain what to run given that the transmission was designed before Dexron II came along. However, if I understand this right, there are Dexron II (E) equivalents.

https://www.ravenol.de/en/product-r...atic-transmissions-1/ravenol-atf-dexron-ii-e/

Using Allison's website, I found a filter for C4 spec only oils.
https://fdlrd.swri.org/Allison/ApprovedFluidsList.aspx?Id=1

After a lot of fiddling, universal trans-hydro fluid rated for Hy-Tran gets the nod. In other words, the squirt juice found everywhere, but locally for me at my NAPA store.

Meanwhile, my Pay Loader Videos are catching up to where our discussion is at.

I thought I'd catch this thread up with where I'm at with sorting out the Hough H80B Pay Loader I purchased. While there is a lot more work ahead of me, the brakes are working again. My governor seems like it is regulating way too high as the working pressure is way out of spec on the dash pressure gauge and I am frequently hearing what I presume is the safety pressure valve dumping. Anybody know if the governor can be adjusted or should I seek a new one? Also, if anybody could shed some light on what that air brake "burping noise is at 25:50ish in the video, I'd sure appreciate hearing what you have to share.

Finally, my thanks and gratitude to those helpful people who took the time to share their knowledge and experience with me earlier this year in this thread.

Anyway here is the video scheduled to go live at 6:00 AM central time today.

Quick question:

When I fixed the brakes the governor pressure was reading off the charts and I could hear what I believe is the relief valve dumping. I believe the adjustment for governor pressure is under the black plastic cap in the photo but my question is at what pressure should I adjust it down to? 120PSI?

Yes, 120 is good.

zlssefi said:

Yes, 120 is good.

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Correct and if my old mind is working right this morning that adjusting screw works opposite to what you might think. In other words turn screw in to lower pressure and out to raise pressure.

And if the pressure does not change you may have a problem in the unloaders of the compressor, but we will worry about that later. If you do need help on that end post a good picture of the compressor.

Thank you gentlemen for confirming what I thought was the right working pressure.

kshansen, your memory is correct, turning the screw in lowered the pressure. The pressure didn't change until I exercised the brakes, then went to the new regulated pressure. I don't have a PSI gauge, but set the pressure to the top of the "in the green" on the dash air brake pressure gauge, which I presume the green range is from 90 to 120 PSI.

Had a mini heart attack yesterday after setting the governor pressure when I tried to move the machine and it wouldn't budge forward or backward. Fearing the F700 transmission had taken a siesta while I wasn't looking, I checked that the parking brake was off and since I have not set up brake hydraulic reservoir, I checked both master cylinders to confirm they were not stacking brake fluid and passively applying the brakes. Then I remembered the lefthand brake pedal knocks the transmission out of gear, but that seemed unlikely because the machine was "trying to move" but couldn't. Finally, I checked the transmission fluid level, and long story short given that nothing appears to be leaking, I don't know how the machine ever moved in the first place in the last video because I was three gallons of Hy-Tran low. Took me a couple of hours to grease everything up today with my G-gun.

Question: Since I have a third function on my wheel loader, does anybody happen to know if an old Dresser 4-in-1 bucket would pin onto my Hough H80B quick attach coupler?

The bucket below is the right size at 96"

I spoke with Rockland, the makers of my quick coupler today. They shared that they sold Hough the brackets for the hang-type quick connect but the spacing was Hough only. So unless I stumble on Hough buckets, I'm going to need to modify everything. Meanwhile, I figured out that the multipurpose bucket above came off of an IH250c crawler loader and it is a 2.5-yard bucket. The price is right on the bucket and I figured I could drop my existing bucket and using cardboard, make patterns I could then cut out of plate and weld onto the to doner bucket to make that bucket work on my Hough H80B.

So thinking along these lines, I started to look at my quick coupler and I quickly realized something is missing, but I don't know what. There appears to be a chunk of wood spacing the lower pins and holding them in. I'm like, huh? Does anybody know what is supposed to be going on here? Though I spoke with Rockland who made the quick coupler, they couldn't tell me anything about it or provide any photos or diagrams as to what the coupler is supposed to look like or how it functions. Does anybody have any light to shine on this coupler?

So here is the backside of my bucket for context.


Now looking straight down, there appears to be a block of wood occupying the place where I imagine some sort of mechanism once resided. There is a cover on the backside held on by one bolt (off-camera) on the top left and wrapping around the top partially covering the block of wood. There also appears to be nothing to do with the right-side lower bucket pin in this photo.


Then over on the left side, there is this! Again, where are the twiddly bits to quick attach the pins? You can also see that one bolt for the cover on the right side of the photo. What am I missing here, fellas?

So I'll take a stab at this. The unit had a hydraulic cylinder in there originally, a cylinder that kinda looks like a double ended power steering cylinder, the pins that hold the bucket are pinned to the end of the cylinder usually with roll pins, the cylinder probably went bad, original owner didn't want to or could not get it fixed, removed it, took the pins that slide through the bucket off, wedged the pins in place with whatever he had, hence the wood and the bolt, and put the covers back on to hold it all together. I would bet dollars to donuts that if you remove the covers that's what you'll find. I'm sure with some measuring you could eventually find a replacement cylinder. JRB and others make similar setups, minus the wood and the bolt....

Although it would not be a double ended cylinder.

Kinda like this, you can kinda see the cylinder in the pics. Maybe yours wasn't set up the same way, but I'm thinking that's the way they "fixed" it