2003 John Deere 320 wont start after new fluids

Edit to above. Answered my own question to the check valve. See picture 1

To continue on the diagnostic quest I have encountered a few obstacles as I can not really test the pressure of the transfer pump due to being required to start and run the engine at 2400 rpm nor can I do an accurate bench test of the transfer pump as my pump does not have a hand primer. See below

After viewing the video are there any restrictions in the air intake system?

Bmk320 said:

does anyone happen to know if there is a mesh screen inside the transfer pump?

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No there is not.

Bmk320 said:

I can not really test the pressure of the transfer pump

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You can check pressure while cranking. While it won't be up to spec it will give an indication if you have enough fuel pressure to get the engine started. Also if you have a pressure gauge in the fuel system and work the hand primer on the filter head to build about 10 psi and then let it sit it should hold 4 psi for a while. That is the proper way to check the check valve.

Also, remove that little cover on the front of the timing gear cover just under the fuel shutoff solenoid. With the engine off and the solenoid energized measure how far the rack can be moved and post that result. You will probably have to cut a steel ruler shorter to fit it in there to make that measurement. Full rack travel should be 21.5 mm.

Bmk320 said:

nor can I do an accurate bench test of the transfer pump

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mg2361 said:

After viewing the video are there any restrictions in the air intake system?

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the primary and secondary filters are brand new. I will check to make sure no restrictions. Again ran ~ 30 minutes before loss of power and died with all of this resulting non starting nonsense.

mg2361 said:

You can check pressure while cranking. While it won't be up to spec it will give an indication if you have enough fuel pressure to get the engine started. Also if you have a pressure gauge in the fuel system and work the hand primer on the filter head to build about 10 psi and then let it sit it should hold 4 psi for a while. That is the proper way to check the check valve.

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sounds easy enough I will try that when I get the right pressure gauge and fitting to put inline

mg2361 said:

Also, remove that little cover on the front of the timing gear cover just under the fuel shutoff solenoid. With the engine off and the solenoid energized measure how far the rack can be moved and post that result. You will probably have to cut a steel ruler shorter to fit it in there to make that measurement. Full rack travel should be 21.5 mm.

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When you say measure how far the rack travels should I moved the rack manually by hand and measure total difference traveled with the ruler?
The procedure in the service manual is quite a bit more complicated and would rather not do that

Bmk320 said:

should I moved the rack manually by hand and measure total difference traveled with the ruler?

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Yes

Just wanted to post a status update on anyone following. I figured out two things. One due to the how steep the hill I was working on I essentially was running out of diesel. I had air bubbles in the IFS that was begging very difficult to purge. The pick up tube is about 6” from the bottom of the tank so that plus the angle I was working at the 6 gallons of diesel I had was not enough.
Item 2 is the fuel solenoid was getting locked out. When you keyd the ignition it would click to open but when I would crank it would deactivate. I direct wired it to the battery to troubleshoot and it worked. Then reset system and was good to go. Glad it was not the internal magnet!

thank you everyone for the help

I was wondering if the fuel tank was fuel.n saw your last post. On there deere loaders before changing fuel related stuff fill your fuel tank 100% full. Don't ask me why if you got half a tank its hard to start n get it goin