Cat 3116 engine injectors syncing

Wait so let me get this straight. If your just replacing the sleeves they dont need to be reamed? But the injectors need to be re o ringed and then the infamous seating tool is needed? I have one that has fuel in coolant. I was thinking of just replacing the sleeves quick and calling it a day. Now im thinking of giving the job to the next guy!!

jragonese33 said:

Wait so let me get this straight. If your just replacing the sleeves they dont need to be reamed? But the injectors need to be re o ringed and then the infamous seating tool is needed? I have one that has fuel in coolant. I was thinking of just replacing the sleeves quick and calling it a day. Now im thinking of giving the job to the next guy!!

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Lol. You say JUST replacing the sleeves. Replacing the sleeves is a non-trivial operation and if you don't have access to the tooling, my advice is don't even start the job. Once the sleeve R&R is complete, the injector seating, synchronisation, timing and rack setting is like a walk in the park.

Im sorry. I didnt realize that the sleeves were that involved. I would love to be able to get my hands on the tooling for the job, and then to my knowledge i would need tooling for seating and synchronisation as well?

Yes that's right. The full set of toolling runs to multiple thousands of dollars. I have the gear for doing the setup but for the number of times I get asked to replace sleeves (maybe one per year, if that) I can't justify the cost and usually send the customer to the dealer.

Yikes. I would love to do the job but at this point it wouldn't be worth it for neither the customer or myself. Thank you for all the input

Hi

I had my machines tell me about this. He has someone that will rent him the tooling.

It reminds me of the 2 stroke GM series of engines the copper sleeves in those will leak fuel in to the coolant as well.

Phil P

Never seen a GM copper leak fuel into the coolant. Seen plenty of them leak coolant into the engine oil. Also seen plenty of jumper tubes leak fuel into the engine oil. I've witnessed a couple of cracked sleeves leak compression gas into the coolant.

Hello John C

Here is the way you get diesel in the coolant from the copper injector tube on the 2 stroke GM diesels.

You take the cylinder head to the machine shop and have them recondition it including replacing the copper injector tubes.

Then you install the head and torque the rockers down without backing off any of the adjusting screws.

This squeezes the copper out the bottom of the cylinder head and distorts the upper seal area as well.

You don’t figure out anything is wrong until you have tried to run the engine.

This results in diesel in the coolant coolant in the oil and I am sure diesel in the oil as well.

I found out about this when the machine shop called me to ask what would destroy the injector tubes.

Phil P

My 3116 in my Topkick has put me through the wringer. I first found on ebay and bought the carpenter tool kit to set the injectors, the seating tool and a reamer to fix a hard start issue created by combustion gas burning through the copper seat and allowing air into the fuel gallery on the number 1 cylinder. Truck ran fine for a brief time after repair until I noticed hard start issue return but not as bad as first time. Then noticed collant line were getting squishy and realized I now had fuel contaminationg coolant. Finally found a cat injector sleeve tool kit on ebay and got it bought. Found a pinhole in #1 and 2 injector sleeves so pulled and replaced along with all new reman injectors.

Adjusted afc screw out 1/2 turn and fuel screw out 1 turn and now have a good running truck. 250 HP fatory setting now much more responsive with more power than it ever has had. I have two concerns though. Truck seems to have a knock mostly pronounced at idle, any ideas how to track this down. I thought I might try to adjust syncronization screws by ear to try and track it down. I also installed pyr and boost gauge. On a hard mountain pull I am maxing out at about 23 psi boost and pyro maxs at 1100 F with sensor installed 1.5 inches after turbo. Am i going to melt this motor down with that pyro reading?

A lot of pistons are made out of 356 aluminum alloy. It melts at 1280 F. Exhaust after the turbo has cooled down some from the cylinders. 1100 degrees is pushing it except for short time periods in my opinion.

Does it have a wiring harness going into the the engine under the valve cover?
All 3116's I have seen were mechanical fuel control. I have read there were some 3116 electronic engines made.
Look on the valve cover for a serial and arrangement. Post them and you way get better answers.
That 3116 mechanical system is only for very competent folks to work on. It can be done without the factory tools but that is tough.