Fuel leak on older D5

D9gdon , as you know the Pump has off set Tang Drive, it also has a pin lock location just in front of No1 Injector Pump, with the drive gear loose and the pump pinned/locked then fitted to the Acc'y Drive, plus the engine pinned through the correct hole on the correct stroke, it's best to remove the Valve Rocker Cover to be positive of pinning the Fly Wheel on No1 Cylinder,all you have to do is tighten the front gear in the correct method, no lock plate required.

tctractors

Pin lock

tctractors,
No, I didn't know about the pin lock in front of No 1 pump on scroll type, the book shows nothing of it, says to buy special timing plate from Cat and do it that way. I see what you're saying, that's good to know.

Chasman, I'll send you directions in an email.

d9gdon said:

tctractors,
No, I didn't know about the pin lock in front of No 1 pump on scroll type, the book shows nothing of it, says to buy special timing plate from Cat and do it that way. I see what you're saying, that's good to know.

Chasman, I'll send you directions in an email.

Click to expand...

Are you guys aware that there are two different types of scroll pumps. The earlier ones have the locking plate for timing and the "new" type have a pin. The later ones are fitted to the "B" series engines.

Two types of scroll pumps

Cmark,
No wonder tctractors and I couldn't figure each other out.

d9gdon, this little Fuel leak has been a right mix up from word 1, not wanting to Flog a Horse to Death, but if all else fails I would Spill Time it /Flow set it, off top of my Head its set at 13.5' deg, I have done a few tractors like this and it is simple enough to do, I did keep asking for a picture of chasman's Banger , now in bits, I bet he is sick as a Dog about his parts Machine.

tctractors

hope the meal is good ??

I got it back together today, d9gdon offered me the timing plate but I gave it a shot without it and it all went fine.

The only thing that saved my butt was having the engine locked down and not moving the injector pump after removing it. I put the injector pump on loosely while ensuring evrything was lined up then tightened the big nut on the drive gear end then finished the job. The batteries are getting weak so that's probably the next thing I'll be replacing. I took a few pics and I need to learn how to post them, if I would have posted some pics in the first place I am sure this would have been a lot simpler of a job.

I do have one more question, why is there what looks to be a meter on the end of the transfer pump? It is hard to read anymore but it seems to be a strange place for a fuel meter.

Hour meter calculated at an "average RPM"

Rehashing an old post. My D5 94J is having the same issue with fuel coming out the drain hose. Question is: do I need to pull the injector pump to fix this leak? Also posted a picture. Thanks!

RKO said:

Leak



Wish he would post a picture of "The Leaky Hose"
I got a bad feeling that he tore the pump off for no reason.
Their is a hose that drains the fuel when you bleed the filter/pump.
I got a bad feeling that this is the hose he is talking about.
If that is the case he did a lot of work for nothing.

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I'm thinking you may be correct. I also have had them open while operating.

So if that hose is made for bleeding the fuel lines. Would that mean a ball valve or something like that has failed? I have opened and closed the top air screw a few times, in hopes of it resealing but it still leaks.

sorry to bring this oldie back up, but im having the same problem. There is a hollowed out tube underneath the hours meter a little towards the block that is leaking on a 96J D5, looks just like the picture NoBudgetMining posted above. Is there a simple O-ring in there that could be leaking? Otherwise, assuming everything internal is kosher, what is the point of this valve if not to be able to open and close it to let fuel out? Meaning if its leaking, isn't it just the bleed valve that is failing? Otherwise, wouldn't that valve hold back a failure in the transfer pump yall have been describing if its functioning correctly? The leak happens running or not, so it's not under pressure. I've been looking for some kind of schematic for this part but haven't found anything yet. I'm still holding out hope its just a simple o-ring?

This started after I had to drop the cup on the initial fuel screener held on by that banjo ring as rust had eaten a hole in the metal cup, so I welded that back up and replaced the screen and that stopped that leak, but as soon as I started it back up (with no doubt a ton of air in the line) I see this new leak. I figured I was going to have to bleed the fuel system after having all that air in there, but I just let fuel run out of the cup for a bit before snugging it up to the O-ring trying to purge as much of the air I could there and it fired right up, but then this other leak started....

Thanks everyone.

here is the leaking valve in question that is under the fuel pump in line with the hour meter (with bonus timed pic of fuel droplet!)



And here is what the whole thing looks like if any guidance as I'm not sure which system I have here to match up with what posts. Thanks!

It's all in the s/n's. Early 96J's have the D333C engine with transfer pump behind the service meter. Same symptoms with leakage from the pump seal cavity. Transfer pump can be removed without affect the injection pump. Uses two lip type shaft seals unlike early pumps that used cone shaped packing. You will want to change the service meter shaft seal as well while your in there.

My serial is 96J2655 is you have the ability to identify what system I have. Thanks so much for your help. The CAT dealer I called seemed to not have much interest in helping me and kept saying his records for something that old are inconclusive.... guess I should call another dealer.

s/n confirms it. The 96J didn't get the 3306 until s/n 3588.
That's a typical dealer response on the old stuff. You need to have part numbers in hand when you go shopping.

does anyone happen to know the part numbers of the lip seals for my d333c transfer pump so I can try and get new ones? any info laying around out there as far as how to change them out? The service manual I have is for everything on the tractor except for the engine... and the engine book I have is for the 3306 not the 333c (thats what came with it when I bought it). thanks everyone!

Meant to post this above, but I called the cat dealer and asked about the lip seals and the guy (in a hurry to get me off the phone...) sent me this schematic which he says is of the transfer pump for my serial number and said to identify the parts I need from it and call back. I don't readily see the seals on here (is it the blowout labeled #6?), but I also have no idea what I am looking for, nor do I see the little discharge tube underneath that is the source of my leak in the photo above. Is this tube part of the transfer pump or something else? Thanks everyone for you help, sorry im so clueless but this machine is still pretty new to me.

Old D5 New Owner said:

does anyone happen to know the part numbers of the lip seals for my d333c transfer pump so I can try and get new ones? any info laying around out there as far as how to change them out? The service manual I have is for everything on the tractor except for the engine... and the engine book I have is for the 3306 not the 333c (thats what came with it when I bought it). thanks everyone!

Click to expand...

That 3306 book will most likely work.
Bob

Old D5 New Owner said:

Meant to post this above, but I called the cat dealer and asked about the lip seals and the guy (in a hurry to get me off the phone...) sent me this schematic which he says is of the transfer pump for my serial number and said to identify the parts I need from it and call back. I don't readily see the seals on here (is it the blowout labeled #6?), but I also have no idea what I am looking for, nor do I see the little discharge tube underneath that is the source of my leak in the photo above. Is this tube part of the transfer pump or something else? Thanks everyone for you help, sorry im so clueless but this machine is still pretty new to me.

Click to expand...

6 and 7
Bob

so I need two of #6 and two of #7? And a #17 to replace the service meter seal while im at it? Thanks so much. Also curious, How did you know #7 was a seal from that schematic?