White-GMC 94’ STC 330 N14

Spud_Monkey · Apr 30, 2020

colson04 said:
Sorry to hear about the troubles with the new rig @Spud_Monkey . I'm sure you'll get it straightened out like your other rig though.

I live for this $hit though thanks

Hows the job hunting go or you just taking a break? I have narrowed it down to fuel solenoid or the Kysor system. There is a screw on back side of the solenoid when screwed in it won't let the fuel shut off solenoid turn the engine off if a signal is sent, and well it ran fine, so time for process of elimination. Seems the other oil field worker that was coming out here every Thursday either finally got furloughed, laid off or bored with his new toy he didn't show up today, darn.

Spud_Monkey · Apr 30, 2020

mitch504 said:
Mine is a mechanical 3406 so my engine harness only has to be alternator, starter, and fuel solenoid.

All the lighting was totally screwed up on mine.

Yeah they managed to pull a light wires out, no biggie for me. Don't worry I will have the same engine wiring harness when done. Have no problems with my DT466 that way so why should this be any different...

colson04 · Apr 30, 2020

With the current situation in Michigan, there isn't anything happening until May 15th right now, unless you farm. I've spent time working on my basement and helping my grandpa in the fields. Always something for me to do. I'll be moving some dirt here soon once things dry up a bit.

Truck Shop · Apr 30, 2020

On the top of the PT fuel pump is where the fuel shut off solenoid is located, one wire to it. On the front side of the solenoid is a manual thumb screw, screw it in and it is in manual mode.
You can't shut the engine off with the key in manual mode, you have to screw it back out to kill the engine. But try running it in manual mode, Those fuel shut off solenoids are notorious
for various running issues. Mitch 504 can tell you all about his fist fight he had with one. I always carried a spare with me on the road.

Spud_Monkey · Apr 30, 2020

colson04 said:
With the current situation in Michigan, there isn't anything happening until May 15th right now, unless you farm. I've spent time working on my basement and helping my grandpa in the fields. Always something for me to do. I'll be moving some dirt here soon once things dry up a bit.

That's good on keeping busy, makes days go by quicker and keeps the mind right. We already are moving dirt here, two shovels at a time, me and the wife been digging our cellar out by shovel hehe. First foot is nice then becomes hard solid clay sandstone like.

Truck Shop said:
On the top of the PT fuel pump is where the fuel shut off solenoid is located, one wire to it. On the front side of the solenoid is a manual thumb screw, screw it in and it is in manual mode.
You can't shut the engine off with the key in manual mode, you have to screw it back out to kill the engine. But try running it in manual mode, Those fuel shut off solenoids are notorious
for various running issues. Mitch 504 can tell you all about his fist fight he had with one. I always carried a spare with me on the road.

Nice new picture, yeah it's exactly what I did, screwed it all the way in. Had flashbacks screwing that thing in, took a RPG in the side of M813 that I was driving that had a NH250 Cummins don't know what happened except for wouldn't start afterwards while L shape ambush kicked off screwed it in and it fired up. I remembered from motor pool when giving us a run down to screw that in if it shuts down and if it doesn't start then time to throw a pyro on it when SHTF and pop smoke.

Spud_Monkey · May 12, 2020

Wonder what would happen if I stuck this here dime in the return fuel line on this N14 hmm hang on!!!!

Tenwheeler · May 12, 2020

Spud_Monkey said:
Wonder what would happen if I stuck this here dime in the return fuel line on this N14 hmm hang on!!!!

BAD MONKEY BAD! Be sure it has a hole in it if you do that. I am not sure what size but with no hole it will runaway. I know this because a mud dobber filled up a return line during an engine swap. That was exciting.
But if you are going to do stuff like that I will share these. If you use needle nose pliers on the return line you can gradually tighten them until you like it or it blows up.
One of my all time favorites was the dial a RPM all thread rod screwed in the governor housing. Must have ran a tap in the hole for the plug? About 6 inches of rod sticking out the back with a jam nut to the housing.
There are better ways.

Spud_Monkey · May 13, 2020

Tenwheeler said:
BAD MONKEY BAD! Be sure it has a hole in it if you do that. I am not sure what size but with no hole it will runaway. I know this because a mud dobber filled up a return line during an engine swap. That was exciting.
But if you are going to do stuff like that I will share these. If you use needle nose pliers on the return line you can gradually tighten them until you like it or it blows up.
One of my all time favorites was the dial a RPM all thread rod screwed in the governor housing. Must have ran a tap in the hole for the plug? About 6 inches of rod sticking out the back with a jam nut to the housing.
There are better ways.

Yes there is better ways, I was also thinking of replacing the return fuel line with longer one and run it into the cab, just step on it with my boot heel with pressure as needed

Spud_Monkey · Jul 2, 2020

I think I am in the market for new transmission for this N14 STC manual engine. When I first start off it can shift into gear fine, there is no clutch brake and if there is one it's missing. Anywho, no manuals for the transmission so I can find for part numbers for whatever parts I may need, the gearing

me off (due to having to switch from low to high constantly when driving around i.e. city), it's as if it was never built. You cannot float the gears in it, you must push the pedal in to shift and lastly no overdrive. So where does one start to find another transmission?
Current POS transmission in there is RT13709H with a PTO attached to the bottom that I have no use for.

funwithfuel · Jul 2, 2020

I'm assuming you already verified that the PTO is not engaged. Do you have to use excessive force to change gears while traveling? Is it a particular set of gears or all? I once had a twisted main shaft, on the bench everything shifted beautifully. In use , once out of the first gear selection, you fought. In the middle of the second overhaul, I placed the bare shaft on the brand new bench, it wouldn't sit still. Found shaft twisted(by accident) only a couple thousandths. Never woulda found out if not for that shiny new bench.

Spud_Monkey · Jul 2, 2020

funwithfuel said:
I'm assuming you already verified that the PTO is not engaged. Do you have to use excessive force to change gears while traveling? Is it a particular set of gears or all? I once had a twisted main shaft, on the bench everything shifted beautifully. In use , once out of the first gear selection, you fought. In the middle of the second overhaul, I placed the bare shaft on the brand new bench, it wouldn't sit still. Found shaft twisted(by accident) only a couple thousandths. Never woulda found out if not for that shiny new bench.

I have excessive strength so I couldn't tell you that though seems to shift harder than my FS6206A Eaton which I can't compare it to since that is a fully synchronized transmission. Though in my opinion I think it should shift smoother, not push then jerk into gear and it does it with all of them. I am uploading a video as we speak of it's problems. Was pulling a tree when I took the video and driving through a valley offroad but you get the scenario of what is the problems when I post the video. Does fine first few minutes then says F U intermittently, it's like it gets stuck between gears.

funwithfuel · Jul 2, 2020

BTW, that trans should have a clutch brake. Non-synchro trans , you shouldn't have to pull very hard to come out or go in provided your timing is right. It should, as you say , float between. I dont believe the sliding dogs are back cut, I believe they're straight. Truck shop or DMiller would know for sure.

Spud_Monkey · Jul 2, 2020

funwithfuel said:
BTW, that trans should have a clutch brake. Non-synchro trans , you shouldn't have to pull very hard to come out or go in provided your timing is right. It should, as you say , float between. I dont believe the sliding dogs are back cut, I believe they're straight. Truck shop or DMiller would know for sure.

Video will show on it, 16% uploaded. Slow pigeons uploading the file...

Truck Shop · Jul 2, 2020

10 speed C-like a 16210C it has a lower 1st gear like a 13 speed with a .74 over drive. And you shouldn't have to alter drive line. As far as shifting hard those rigs had a long off set sh!ter I mean shifter.
And people had a tendency of forcing shifts which wears the shift blocks not to mention the sliding clutches. Check the isolater mid way on the shift lever.

Spud_Monkey · Jul 2, 2020

Truck Shop said:
10 speed C-like a 16210C it has a lower 1st gear like a 13 speed with a .74 over drive. And you shouldn't have to alter drive line. As far as shifting hard those rigs had a long off set sh!ter I mean shifter.
And people had a tendency of forcing shifts which wears the shift blocks not to mention the sliding clutches. Check the isolater mid way on the shift lever.

So when I get extra money buy one of these https://www.vanderhaags.com/detailview.php?part=24867467 rip the sh!ter out and put a straight one in. No isolator or anything midways on the shifter and if there is a clutch brake that should be on this transmission can I just slap a 2" one on or is there a certain part number I should look up? So far at 34% uploading video, someone shot the pigeon carrying the message out the sky, had to start it over uploading.

Truck Shop · Jul 2, 2020

Install a Babcock SB200 clutch brake for now. Have someone hold the pedal down to keep it in place while you drive the pins in.

Tenwheeler · Jul 2, 2020

I went from an NTC to an 14L Detroit. Cussed it all the way to south Florida and back before I discovered it liked to shift at 1300 RPM and would pull at those low RPMs
If you are coasting and need to get out of gear just ease on the throttle a bit. It should come out of gear with slight pressure as you let off. Just saying maybe work with it some before you condemn it.
Some things like a snap ring can cause a problem like that. Might want to get it checked out before you buy a transmission.

Tenwheeler · Jul 2, 2020

Truck Shop said:
Install a Babcock SB200 clutch brake for now. Have someone hold the pedal down to keep it in place while you drive the pins in.

Only mash the pedal all the way to the floor when stopped. Maybe you know all that and just have equipment problems. Just trying to help.

Birken Vogt · Jul 2, 2020

My experience, get the clutch brake fixed when the truck is down for service, works great for a couple weeks until some other driver borrows the truck...back to grinding at every stoplight....

Spud_Monkey · Jul 2, 2020

Here is the video, didn’t get it up to speed just pulling a tree across the yard through a valley and losing traction while doing so.

White-GMC 94’ STC 330 N14

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