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White-GMC 94’ STC 330 N14

Truck Shop

Truck Shop

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I hit the like button but that doesn't mean i like your STC control box issue. Those are non repairable and 20 years ago that control was $900.00. I think the max that engine can be turned up
is 370 Hp, if it was factory set at 370 hp it could be boosted to 435 hp. I think there is a piston, injector, turbo change to go over 370. As far as tires let me do a little work I might be able to
come up with something, 11.00 22.5 or 295/75 22.5?
 
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Spud_Monkey

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Truck Shop said:
I hit the like button but that doesn't mean i like your STC control box issue. Those are non repairable and 20 years ago that control was $900.00. I think the max that engine can be turned up
is 370 Hp, if it was factory set at 370 hp it could be boosted to 435 hp. I think there is a piston, injector, turbo change to go over 370. As far as tires let me do a little work I might be able to
come up with something, 11.00 22.5 or 295/75 22.5?
Click to expand...
Yep 11R22.5 don't worry no offense taken on the like button you got to try a lot harder than that to offend or "trigger" me and I understand it. I think the lack of power I am feeling is the lack of a STC so I should be fine with the given power under the hood. As for the STC, if one can't find one and can't be rebuilt then what does one do to remedy the problem? This is what I found on two websites
https://www.dieselpartsdirect.com/ds3803282
https://highwayandheavyparts.com/i-14771070-3803282-cummins-n14-stc-valve-repair-kit-new.html
 
Truck Shop

Truck Shop

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Good on the free version, not surprised on the price. The $900.00 was 2000 price on the last one I did. I laugh when I hear that Cummins are cheap to repair, no different than Cat.
 
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Truck Shop said:
Good on the free version, not surprised on the price. The $900.00 was 2000 price on the last one I did. I laugh when I hear that Cummins are cheap to repair, no different than Cat.
Click to expand...
Maybe cheaper when comparing one part to another but, if you sat there and itemized every part and ran a average they would come out the same price. Never seen one engine cheaper than another to repair, if that was true then everyone else would be out of business unless you had to repair it more often than not and the savings aren't worth it.
 
Truck Shop

Truck Shop

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Small cam and Big Cam mechanical Cummins are cheap if you only use aftermarket parts [885 average inframe kit $1,350.} Heads years back were $200 to 225 now average $500 each.
Rebuilt injectors were $35 for years now $60 to $65, injector pump $365 now $575. Inflation.
 
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Now I just need to find a book on the wiring of this semi. Ebay yielded no results, there is a sensor on the expansion tank that seems disconnected along with two wires bolted together going nowhere and few other wires to nowhere. I can only imagine where else some of these wires are not going. 94 Volvo White/GMC WIA
 
mitch504

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That's what I was talking about when I said the electrical systems on these trucks were a nightmare. Mine has absolutely nothing electronic on it but the instrument cluster, which didn't work when I bought it, is only used in '92s, is obsolete in the parts system, and no cluster repair people will look at it. I have basically redone everything electrical on the truck the way I think it should have been done to start. I bought this truck cheap, I knew the retiring owner well, he bought it from a state agency that is fanatical about maintenance, and it had just over 100,000 miles on it. I gave $7500 for a heavy spec lowboy truck in great ship except the electrical. I don't put 10,000 miles on it in a year.
 
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mitch504 said:
That's what I was talking about when I said the electrical systems on these trucks were a nightmare. Mine has absolutely nothing electronic on it but the instrument cluster, which didn't work when I bought it, is only used in '92s, is obsolete in the parts system, and no cluster repair people will look at it. I have basically redone everything electrical on the truck the way I think it should have been done to start. I bought this truck cheap, I knew the retiring owner well, he bought it from a state agency that is fanatical about maintenance, and it had just over 100,000 miles on it. I gave $7500 for a heavy spec lowboy truck in great ship except the electrical. I don't put 10,000 miles on it in a year.
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Wouldn’t be so bad if the previous owner kept his dick beaters off the wiring and let qualified person fix the problem not put jumper wires on certain things and just unplug all other things. Seems I need to just pull the Kysor shutdown system off, wire in a manual override switch for the cooling system inline with the temp sensor that turns it on and put aftermarket gauges in. Snip Snip, now should I cut the blue wire or red wire :eek:
 
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ADF1865C-4607-4E05-B970-E93D489AA319.jpeg Now where does this go?B0D7C99F-DA51-425B-AC8C-DA020ECAF544.jpeg
Some rigging here, looks someone added a manual fan switchE64A92EB-7BCD-48B1-BF92-02E121A179CA.jpeg5D1EE264-C51F-4D8D-A949-4A7FB743267A.jpeg Looks as if this wire goes on the back of the alternator and broke off?
 
funwithfuel

funwithfuel

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First pic, wires screwed together goes to low coolant sensor in tank . Those two tin strips poking out. They never work.
Second pic, looks like someone bypassed thermo switch for fan clutch.
Third pic, if I was guessing, maybe an aux feed for maybe a preheat relay or something along those lines.
 
Truck Shop

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I second Mitch 504 on the electrical problems on these years. Actually it's hard to get or non existent on instrument clusters for them also for most any years. I had one that I built a
cluster panel out of 1/8" aluminum and installed all new gauges, plus electronic speedo and tach I used from a 82 KW cab over. I just installed the basic gauges needed. And that
truck only had 350,000 on it. It really wasn't that bad of a job. The other area for electrical issues was the hood harness. As far as main engine wiring most were ok in that area.
 
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funwithfuel said:
First pic, wires screwed together goes to low coolant sensor in tank . Those two tin strips poking out. They never work.
Second pic, looks like someone bypassed thermo switch for fan clutch.
Third pic, if I was guessing, maybe an aux feed for maybe a preheat relay or something along those lines.
Click to expand...
Whatever wire that’s for by the alternator it sure is a live one. Weird part it’s only putting out 12.3V while alternator is pushing 14.1V. Anywho found a secret switch under the dash that engages the clutch on the fan to manually turn it on. Ran it for a bit and still just dies if I slightly push it past 1000 rpm and let off, does it on first time or second time, or it does it when stepping on the pedal. All fluid temperatures and pressure look fine, idles at 15 psi and staying under 180 degrees, I would say loss of fuel pressure or the Kysor system messing up. There is no rev up like when I introduce air in the fuel or nothing just flat lines which has me leaning towards Kysor system. When it dies I have to wait at least 20 to 30 seconds or it isn’t firing up, could be loss of ability to suck fuel.
 
mitch504

mitch504

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Mine is a mechanical 3406 so my engine harness only has to be alternator, starter, and fuel solenoid. :D

All the lighting was totally screwed up on mine.
 
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