3306 in cat d6d rainwater seized engine. need barring tool or ideas to unseize

hi.

i have a caterpillar d6d 4x series that got rainwater in engine. may have been that way a few weeks. was doing some work on engine when this happened. sucked all the water out with suction gun and soaked it with atf and acetone. pulled injectors and did the same.

want to turn it over by hand before using starter.

before the rain issue it had sat about a year before doing repairs. have not bought batteries to attempt to do it with starter. do not want to buy expensive batteries if i am facing a total rebuild issue. will take a few years just to save that much money! batteries would die in that period of time.

want to BE CAREFUL.

id there a barring tool available online? is there a bellhousing port to use it? Or, do i need to pull the starter and use the tool?
never have used a barring tool before.

i have also heard you can take an old started and modify it with a pull handle on end of shaft. would hate to have to locate a starter and do all that work....

i can google a 3306 barring tool and it pulls up a sprocket socket on amazon. how does it stay stationary against the flywheel? is there a separate bellhousing port than the starter hole?

i cannot get a socket and pull handle on the harmonic balancer/crank nut. too tight of a space. i also do not want to damage the nut.

any tips and tricks? tool or links of tools?

thanks!!!

Drop hard nose , come in from underneath.
Should be a 3/4" bolt holding damper hub on crank shaft a 1 1/8" socket.
Bob

Yes. There should be plenty room from underneath. Was on our D6C to change seal.

Either the crank, or pull the starter, whichever you think is easiest. Wouldn't hurt to grab ahold of the fan and belts and see if it will wiggle that way.

if you have the injectors out, and sucked the water out already, surely you can come up with two used batteries to crank it over to blow the rest of the crap out? Then fog the cylinders and cover better until you get it back together.

I saw a guy years ago make a adapter on a gas engine to fit a spark plug hole and a grease fitting. Used his grease gun to fill one of the cylinders and pressure to move the piston. Make a hell of a mess to get all the grease out but it did un-stick the engine...

Hey Rob, fill the cylinder with diesel first, might even pump diesel through the grease gun, definitely will pump diesel through a porta power. If you can see the crank, then you can hook up to four out of the six pistons to get them broke lose. An airless paint sprayer is a quick and easy way to pressurize something like this, 1/2 GPM at 3,000PSI max (pressure washer is quicker, but not as CONTROLLABLE, and NO bleed off valve unless you add one). Grease guns claim 6,000+ PSI, porta power 10,000+ PSI. be careful.

Hopefully Bill does not need these ideas, no guarantee of engine life or oil usage after following these ideas

Delmer said:

Hey Rob, fill the cylinder with diesel first, might even pump diesel through the grease gun, definitely will pump diesel through a porta power. If you can see the crank, then you can hook up to four out of the six pistons to get them broke lose. An airless paint sprayer is a quick and easy way to pressurize something like this, 1/2 GPM at 3,000PSI max (pressure washer is quicker, but not as CONTROLLABLE, and NO bleed off valve unless you add one). Grease guns claim 6,000+ PSI, porta power 10,000+ PSI. be careful.

Hopefully Bill does not need these ideas, no guarantee of engine life or oil usage after following these ideas

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One point I did not see mentioned in these ideas was the need to be sure the valves are closed on the cylinder you are trying to pressurize otherwise the fuel/grease will just come out the intake or exhaust!

Also depending on if this is a direct injection or prechamber engine you would need to come up with a way to adapt something to let you put the pressure in the cylinder. Not hard depending on your imagination and things on hand. You can't just push through an injector or prechamber valve cartridge.

Bluox said:

Drop hard nose , come in from underneath.
Should be a 3/4" bolt holding damper hub on crank shaft a 1 1/8" socket.
Bob

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Thanks Bob. You are correct about the socket size.
The issue is....that I just installed a new radiator and cylinder head. It got rainwater in it while in the process of these repairs.
the gap between the crank harmonic pulley bolt doesnt leave enough room to get a socket and pull handle on it. I kind of made something to go on it and its just too hard to get leverage to rock the engine back and forth and not damage the little NUT.

I was hoping to go a professional route with a barring tool if it can be done on this machine. Am I using the proper word?
I dont see how a socket with teeth can lay in the starter hole to run the flywheel? Wouldnt it need a mounting bracket similar to the shape of a starter mount?
Someone told me that 3406 and c15 cat engines have an opening in the flywheel for a barring tool. Does a D6D CAT have such an opening for a barring tool?

See this amazon link for a barring tool.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-OTCJ3858...007TN0FV0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8


I dont mind buying the tool as I'd like to have one in my toolbox for easier valve adjustment and such on these engines. If it is cheap.......

That tool is for a 3406/ c15.
3306 does not have the hole for that in the flywheel housing.
I have seen a barring tool made of a flat bar and two pins. The pin on the outside has a rounded flat bar on it that pivots to match the outside of the damper. As you pull down the pins wedge against the damper.

Mobiltech said:

That tool is for a 3406/ c15.
3306 does not have the hole for that in the flywheel housing.
I have seen a barring tool made of a flat bar and two pins. The pin on the outside has a rounded flat bar on it that pivots to match the outside of the damper. As you pull down the pins wedge against the damper.

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Yes! That makes sense. I have seen those types of tools made for other engines. My dad used to make tools like that for other old equipment. Just trace out a handle shape with a C on the end from plate steel and weld two bots to it and grind down to fit? HAHA. The 3306 seems to have a super light duty damper and NUT on the end. Does not seem to be designed for engine spins.

As far as removing a starter and using a tool in the starter hole. How do these barring sockets work in the starter hole? Not sure how they hold themselves against the flywheel.

Thanks

There is a Cat tool for barring over 3300 series engines, I dont have the part numbers, but it has a spider that bolts to the starter opening and a pinion you shove through the center of the spider. It's about 650 bucks. I made a tool by cannibalizing an old starter. That's about the only way to turn a D5H engine.
Nowadays with all these "no core" new starters, somebody near you has to have a dead starter that will work to cut up.

The 3306 Cat baring tool is a two piece affair. A triangle shaped deal that bolts to the starter hole with the starter bolts and another geared piece that you connect your 1/2” ratchet to. I’ve got one in my toolbox somewhere. I’ll try and find it for a picture. It’s a big, bulky and heavy set-up.

Coaldust said:

The 3306 Cat baring tool is a two piece affair. A triangle shaped deal that bolts to the starter hole with the starter bolts and another geared piece that you connect your 1/2” ratchet to. I’ve got one in my toolbox somewhere. I’ll try and find it for a picture. It’s a big, bulky and heavy set-up.

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Man. you are a lifesaver. Was yours home made or store bought? Would love to use this thread as an archive for others who have a 3306 and need to use or do this!!!

5P-7305 and 5P-7306 are the part numbers. Stupid expensive.

5P-7305 -not my photo. Found it on E-bay. They are actually a few of them for sale for decent prices.

5P-7306

Can’t find mine. Last time I used it was on a 3304PC auxiliary aboard the F/V Melodee Dawn, moored in Metlakatla. Hmmmm. Probably still onboard. Hate when I do that.

Coaldust said:

5P-7306

View attachment 215388

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Holy Moly. Look at that! Makes sense. If i knew the exact gear end of whatever exact type of starter this uses. I could make a plate. drill holes. Make a bushing. Weld the starter gear to a fat socket that has a 3/4 or half drive.

With no injectors, it should not take much power to turn over. Get a good set of jumper cables, and connect the 320 right to the battery stud on the starter. If it turns over, you're in business.

Interesting. I found a video on a cat engine valve lash adjustment. At: 0:37 in the video you can clearly see the engine barring tool used in the starter hole! Hope this will be useful for the archive of this topic!

video link: