Hough H80B source for parts

I'm purchasing a 1979 Hough IH H-80B and waiting for it to be delivered. It has no brakes. I've searched the forum and I cannot find anybody explaining much about the H-80B or a good source for parts. If anybody knows, I could sure use a source. Also, doesn't anybody know if there is a Dresser equivalent to the H-80B?
The H-80B uses a Navistar DT466 rated at 200hp. The machine runs well and the engine has been rebuilt.

Known issues that I discovered in an inspection:

1) A number of gauges and lights are inoperative but given the state of the wiring, I'm willing to bet those things will wake up if I replace the harness. I have an auto tech background and do not see replacing the harness one wire at a time to be a problem other than my labor.
2) There are no brakes. Air pressure is there with several minor air leaks. I ordered a Sunex 22-ton air jack, as well as a pair of 22-ton jack stands so I will have what I need to pick up an end and remove wheels to get at the hubs. On the other hand, I've read online that many of the braking problems are hydraulic issues and that these things tend to have wheel cylinders that fail. I need a source for parts.
3) The giant seals between the pins and the cylinder rams are failing and need to be replaced to keep the grease in. I need a source for parts.
4) The throttle cable is super stiff. I was thinking of taking it off and measuring it, but don't know how long the equivalent Dresser cable is or model application. I'm wondering if this is like boats: you can be a little long control box cables, but you're SOL if they are too short. Does anybody know of a source for parts for a cross-reference?
5) My seat has sort of dissolved. Any chance of finding the right vintage seat or should I throw down and plan to pop for a universal tractor Sears air seat with 5" of travel?
6) The third function level is disconnected but the top line of the third function is leaking at the four-bolt plate where the line comes through the upper frame. I presume this is because the disconnected spool valve is not centered or does somebody know something I don't know?
7) The bottom of the bucket, while not thin, still needs some grinding out and welding in of replacement plates. I plan to plasma cut out new parts and replace the edge and then go at it with a bunch of 7018 rods to sort it out but I've never done this kind of work before. Any noobie suggestions?
8) The right side door doesn't latch. I dunno why but I haven't looked at it closely either.

Thank you ever so much for your time. This is my first really big machine so assume that I'm fairly handy, but ignorant of heavy equipment like this apart from YouTube University (which has nothing service-related on these machines near as I can tell). Here is a photo of the machine I'm purchasing.

They are pretty obsolete For parts try road machinery in Savage, Minnpar may be another source Jensales may have a manual
If brake parts are not available pull the wheel cylinder cups and look for equivalents by measurement
Cables of any sort can be custom made maybe can get some lube into it though
Really a pretty good looking machine

I have the original owner's manual, parts manual and I have on order a Jensales service manual. I'm north Central Minnesota, so General Equipment out of Fargo is my closest Komatsu dealer.

Morse or Teleflex can make the throttle cable, all they need is the length, outer cable diameter and what end fittings. They probably made the original. An auto upholsterer can fix the seat back to new. 0rings for the brakes shouldn't be to much of an issue, take the pistons with the 0 rings still on them to a good clutch and brake shop so they can measure everything up. If the bores need honing then you'll need to give them the new diameters.
BTW that looks a very tidy machine.

Did you get a set of forks with it? Pretty unusual to see a quick coupler on a loader of that vintage. It does look good. As far as the Komatsu dealer, a lot of the older stuff is obsolete and no longer available and the prices can be stunning, but I have gotten quite a few things there I couldn’t find anywhere else. If you haven’t already, you might sign up on Komatsu’s site so you can access their parts system and pricing.

Another place to check with for parts might be:
http://www.tractorparts.com/

I have not had dealings with them but they at least list Hough Loaders as something they might have something you you!

Most of my Hough experience is with the 100 and up models but would guess that the 80 is just a smaller version of one of those.

I'd assume the brakes are most likely air over hydraulic so might get lucky if you have a good old time auto repair shop in the area and can match up the hydraulic parts to fix the masters or wheel cylinders. It might have wedge brakes which can be a bit more work but you never know till you get in to them.

The seals for the grease on the pins? I assume there you are talking about the big rubber orings. While nice to have they are not super critical as long as you grease on a regular basis and don't work in deep mud or water all the time.

Have to agree that in the pictures it does look like a well cared for machine, back in the 1970's most did not look that good in the quarries around here!

Fire away. I own and still run a 74 h90E with a dt 573 engine. I have rebuilt the brake system end to end. Powerclusters, relining the shoes, wheel cylinders etc. I got all of my parts around 8 years ago at FP Smith out west. The orings you speak of on the pins dry up and fall off. ive never replaced a single one and everything still operates as it should. Just keep greasing!

Is this the FP Smith you are referring to?:
http://www.fpsmitheq.com/

that's it!!

You have air pressure, is there fluid in the hydraulic master cylinder? have you tried bleeding the wheel cylinders? Do you know the CORRECT FLUID to be used, don't guess on this one.

Delmer said:

You have air pressure, is there fluid in the hydraulic master cylinder? have you tried bleeding the wheel cylinders? Do you know the CORRECT FLUID to be used, don't guess on this one.

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Good point on the correct fluid. I can only speak to the H100 and up we had and they all used DOT3. Check the filler cap on the masters and there is a good chance it is marked there!

Double check the operators manual too. There's plenty of caps out there with the wrong fluid molded into them.

The issue is there are oil based brake systems where the brakes are inside an oil filled compartment, and there are brake fluid (dot 3) based fluids where the leaky cylinders won't go into an oil compartment, and the components aren't that different, enough that I would never trust the cap on it's own.

chances are the masters are dry. On my machine I had to hone and rebuild both masters as well as the air chambers. one master has a real slow leak, takes an entire year to go dry.....that one just gets topped off annually.lol

Thanks for all the replies! Thank you also for the tip on FP Smith. FP Smith has rebuild kits as well as new wheel cylinders, and an exchange program for the master cylinders—all of which gives me a bit of confidence that I can sort out the single biggest problem with this H-80B.

At this time I'm still waiting to move the machine over to my place due to the semi we were going to use to haul the lowboy taking a siesta during north-central Minnesota's third winter. I have the operators manual which I will read through. The Parts and manual and some spares (starter bendix and brake pads or shoes—I have not seen them) are still with the payloader and the reprinted service manual that I have on order has yet to arrive.

Before committing to buy, I was reading on this forum on mostly H-65 models that the wheel cylinders where a weak point and master cylinders are a weak point. I'm unfamiliar with oil-bathed master cylinders but will pour through the printed material when I get my hands on them. Do the hydraulic brake systems on these machines self bleed air out or is it like cars and light trucks where we can gravity bleed, but then need somebody to pump the brakes while working the bleeder screws to get all the air out?

Minnesota Eric said:

I'm unfamiliar with oil-bathed master cylinders but will pour through the printed material when I get my hands on them. Do the hydraulic brake systems on these machines self bleed air out or is it like cars and light trucks where we can gravity bleed, but then need somebody to pump the brakes while working the bleeder screws to get all the air out?

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You refer to these as "oil-bathed" master cylinders. I would reserve that term till you have have read all the manuals for the machine as there is a very good chance the system uses DOT3 brake fluid and if "oil" was put in it it would destroy all rubber parts!

Might be a little over simplification but the brakes on this machine are really not much different than say a 1960 Chevy! The biggest difference is on the Chevy your foot push on a peddle that was connected directly to the piston in master cylinder.

Where on this Hough the peddle you push is more or less a standard air brake valve and when you push it down air goes to a air chamber attached to the master cylinder. That air cylinder in turn pushes the piston in on the master. Fluid then goes to the wheel cylinders to apply the brakes.

What I don't know off top of my head is the style of wheel cylinders this machine has. It could have simple wheel cylinders that push directly on the shoes like that 1960 Chevy or it could have a cylinder that pushes on a wedge and roller assembly that in turn forces the shoes apart.

Bleeding procedures are pretty much the same as any car or truck with hydraulic brakes with the one exception being you would need to keep air pressure up while doing it to have air pressure to the foot brake valve. There should be more than likely a bleeder valve at each master cylinder as well as one at each wheel cylinder.

When I say "each master" I'm assuming there is one for the front and one for the rear. It is not beyond reason to think there could either be one for the whole machine or even one for each wheel. Or could be something altogether different on your machine!

Once you get the manuals if you want to post some pages out of them I'm sure we can give more exact help.

He didn't say "these" are oil bathed cylinders. No reason to believe these are, they're dry brakes right? Just double check, or triple.

Thill tractor parts at Eau Claire has rebuilt parts for those machines too.
FWD

Eau Claire, Wisconsin.

That's good to know. I added them to my bookmarks. Thanks, FWD.

Sadly, I'm still awaiting delivery which is just as well since it is snowing outside as we continue to suffer through third winter in North-Central Minnesota.