Takeuchi TL130, start/no run

https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...0-fuel-stop-solenoid-not-getting-power.69583/

Check this thread out, and do the tests.

So I may have figured it out. There are two wires coming from the timer that go to the relay. They both have power, but if I disconnect the one and ground it out it works. I do not believe it should have power so must be a bad timer. I will get one tomorrow and see. Thanks.

Long story here, I have a TL150 that quit on me a few years ago. The fuel solenoid would pull, but NOT hold. In a pinch I had someone troubleshoot the problem for me to find the gauge/cluster had a burnt spot on a tiny little relay circuit on the back of the circuit board. He checked everything until he ended at the cluster. It was an expensive part, and I needed it fixed that day. I jumped a fused wire to a switch in the cab to run the hold. (Which was a pain to turn the key, then flip the switch, then start). Now I’ve bought the new $600 circuit board, only to plug it up and burn up another board in the exact same spot. I’m drawing a blank now, and at $600 loss on the display, I’ve got to find out why it’s shorting out. Just dropping my great experience with my fuel solenoid in this thread. Wishing I could retrofit a cable kill.

You need a wiring diagram. There should be a flyback diode somewhere that protects the circuit from the stored current in the solenoid. It sounds like yours is not working.

Wes J said:

You need a wiring diagram. There should be a flyback diode somewhere that protects the circuit from the stored current in the solenoid. It sounds like yours is not working.

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I have one, I’ll search for the diode and check it.. thank you!

Nhilln.. theres nothing wrong w/retroing a pull cable..
I've done it.. I just went next door to the Mack dealership & bought a shut down cable for a mack truck, drilled a hole by the driver/operator seat & ran the cable & cut off the excess..
You might even get away w/ running a universal "choke" cable.. 1000's of'm on ebay-amazon for $5.-10.00.
Now I'm not saying THATS THE RIGHT WAY.. I'm merely throwing out options & letting you know it can be done.

GaryHoff said:

https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...0-fuel-stop-solenoid-not-getting-power.69583/

Check this thread out, and do the tests.

Click to expand...

It was not the timer. Start over again. I did the tests Gary. I have power in red wire at relay and timer. Fuses all ok. White (hold) wire gets power for a second then loses it. Even with fuel solenoid unhooked from harness. My next thing to check would be maybe the key switch or coolant level sensor? Here is my relay layout.

Relays "J" & "K" come apart. Remove the case, and inspect the circuit board for cold solder joints. The larger the connection, the greater the chance of a cold solder joints. Number one electrical issue on my TL150 machines.
These are the "triple" relays. The relays with a phillips screw in the bottom do not come apart.

heymccall said:

Relays "J" & "K" come apart. Remove the case, and inspect the circuit board for cold solder joints. The larger the connection, the greater the chance of a cold solder joints. Number one electrical issue on my TL150 machines.
These are the "triple" relays. The relays with a phillips screw in the bottom do not come apart.

Click to expand...

Took them apart and they look good. I ran 12v from a separate battery to the pins on the stop solenoid relay and it did the same thing (engaged for a second and then disengaged). After it disengages there is 12V on all 4 wires with the key on. May be a bad relay but they are $50 a piece to buy. Would like to make sure that is the problem. I would think rotating it with another relay would fix the problem but it does not.

GaryHoff said:

Red wire will be hold in winding, and have constant power. White wire will only have power during cranking. Black is ground.
The wires rub through inside the wiring loom. Cut open the loom and look at the wires.

Click to expand...

so the white wire will only have power while motor is turning over?

muel1030 said:

Took them apart and they look good. I ran 12v from a separate battery to the pins on the stop solenoid relay and it did the same thing (engaged for a second and then disengaged). After it disengages there is 12V on all 4 wires with the key on. May be a bad relay but they are $50 a piece to buy. Would like to make sure that is the problem. I would think rotating it with another relay would fix the problem but it does not.

Click to expand...

Did you ever find a fix for your issue? My machine is having the EXACT problem. It’s got me scratching my head....

If u put the GROUND wire{-} from a battery charger to the BLACK wire on the solenoid..
Then put the POSITIVE wire{+} from the charger to the WHITE wire on the sol. & push in on the plunger a little.. it should snap closed..
NOW, while holding the plunger in..{u already proved it WILL snap closed}..
Move the 12v wire{+} to the RED wire.. & let go of the plunger.. IT SHOULD HOLD..
IF NOT, u have a bad "HOLD" windings in your solenoid..
If ALL THAT WORKS.. u have a problem w the wiring.. most likely a bare wire, corroded wire or a relay.
DO NOT straight wire the solenoid.. you'll DEFINITELY burn it out..
The run & hold windings run at different AMPS..

bringing this back again-- my 2007 or so TL130 wont start all of a sudden-- someone cracked the plastic around the instruments and replaced it last week-- didnt try to start since then -- and now no start--i didnt think it was caused by him but now im not sure-- ive replaced fuel filter and added fuel and cleaned separator..
wondering if he accidently broke a relay on the board changing the plastics out..?
machine only has 500 hrs on it
i have 12v at the red wire key on - solenoid
black is good ground tested with power probe
NO power key on start position on white wire--
i took solenoid out and only verified that it clicked and moved before seeing this thread on how to test it.

another thread says the white wire has power in crank only -- so i went and tried that-- i turn machine over and using power probe give 12v+ to the white wire while cranking-- It runs! but as soon as i let go of the power switch it stops-- it will run as long as i can give it power - the power probe blows its breaker in about 5 seconds-- so the solenoid is needing more than that-

now im confused- is there 2 issues?
1) i have no power coming from some relay to trigger white wire
2) solenoid isnt holding open after triggering white wire with power--

so does the white wire ONLY have power when cranking? i will take solenoid back out tomorrow and test as above

so i tested the solenoid--
power to white wire pulls plunger IN-- it stays in as long as i hold power to it- (well as long as power probe can let it-- same 4 seconds or so it blows the breaker) i dont have to push in on plunger at all for it to move.

putting power to red wire does nothing-- even while giving it power and pushing plunger in manually it doesnt stay in - ive tried holding plunger in while powering and same--
so looks like the solenoid is dead..

Yup.. u found it.. the “run” coil inside the sol. Is no good.
It should “hold” all the way compressed.. it won’t snap closed, u gotta hold it & the voltage should take over from there..
There’s a secret in the pump world, (yeah, just 1. Lol). Look up PJ POWER for the solenoid.. probably 100.00 cheaper than your dealer.
Shhhh, don’t spread it around.!!

k i will check pj power--
as soon as i turn key on with solenoid out it pulls in for a fraction of a second then it releases.. thats in the ON position on key not start -