D3B Clutch and cylinder rebuild

If you hook the rod up at the back with the front of the rod under the pedals free, can you adjust it there so the rod is short enough? You probably have to adjust it then take the pin out at the back, assemble the front and then put the pin at the back in. Is the arm at the back the pin goes into going back all the way? Maybe someone had been playing around with the brakes in the past. The big parts that bolt on (Part 9, section B-B) could have been taken apart and put back together wrong or possibly be put on backwards (opposite sides). One of mine was assembled wrong in the past (or both were set up for the same side) but I was still able to get it adjusted so it works properly. Otherwise I would have had to take it off, take it apart and put it back together the proper way. Bob advised if I could get the linkage hooked up and follow the same adjustment procedure it should be fine. It was quite a few years ago but if I recall it brought the lever the pin goes in further forward and I had to stretch the return spring at the back of the machine longer to connect it. The other side (correct side) the spring was only slightly extended at rest. The spring on the backwards one was extended approx. 1/2" at rest. Also possible that the arms on section F-F have been played with. Just one the pitfalls with buying used equipment I guess.

Welder Dave said:

can you adjust it there so the rod is short enough?

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No, its still to long.
In post 97 pic where it shows the 4 inch space, the pivot is moved to 3.2 inch closer to firewall (with adjuster 1.5 turns out) in order to attach. This gives we less room for brake. I can tighten the adjuster again but I'm short by .75 inch and don't see how I will get that much

Welder Dave said:

The big parts that bolt on (Part 9, section B-B) could have been taken apart and put back together wrong or possibly be put on backwards (opposite sides

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I get what your saying and took pics so it would go back together the same way. You cant place them on backwards they won't line up, I did look at it when assembling

I'm going to go back into SIS to see if something shows up

Checked SIS and it shows part number 5G0371 for the brake rod but doesn't list how long it is.

Tightened the adjuster down tight and connected it to drum side (also spring holding it to rear), there is about 1 inch from pivot and rod end.

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Your right Dave
Looked close at the first pic in post 2 and the one which is on the right side has paint on the lever, the one that's in there now has no paint, and the one on the left does.

Time to take it back apart, thanks again

Great, glad I could help. I did the first one and it went great. Got everything bolted up to do the other one and it was way off. I thought about taking everything back apart and taking the assembly apart to retime it (for lack of a better word) but after consulting Bob decided if it works I'll leave it. Just have to remember one side is different than original. Machine steers great and brakes don't drag.

Just got them switched and the pedal feels firm so think I should have brakes. The rods are now out past even but still there. If it wasn't so hard to remove the clutch plates I would remove them and lengthen the rods under them, that would give me some more thread. Will adjust for pedal travel tomorrow, I'm tired

Its working and brakes work much better. Have adjusted peddles to about 4 inches. Peddles are higher then first time and could back off some more but need to move it around some then decide

If it free rolls you should be good.

Well the left works great, the right no so much.
Fwd/Rev press left brake and left track stops and we turn. Press right brake and both sides stop at low idle. At higher rpm with right brake ON it will start to turn but slowly. Sounds like I'm not getting full engagement on left clutch.

The left clutch valve is the newer design, right is older. Need to get the pressure gauge out

Looks like I need a new clutch valve on right side (this is an old style)
400 psi on left and next to nothing on the right

Maybe it can be rebuilt for less money?

Welder Dave said:

Maybe it can be rebuilt for less money?

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Just talking out loud in case I'm missing something

I replaced all the o-rings while it was out. This one was originally on the left side and the test port (in my other thread) on the clutch piston was buggered up and couldn't test before. This was part of the reason I decided to pull the clutches. I was working but not very well before.

I checked the Hyd tank and bevel gear and don't see any changes so assuming its not the clutch piston

Was the roller replaced? If it was only ran a little a slight leak at the piston might not be noticeable. You could take the brake band support bolt out and look to see if there's any oil in the case.

Welder Dave said:

Was the roller replaced? If it was only ran a little a slight leak at the piston might not be noticeable. You could take the brake band support bolt out and look to see if there's any oil in the case.

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Which roller?
If you mean like the roller on end of valve, there isn't one. Its old style like in post 69

Guess it could be a slight leak at the piston but figured I would see some pressure but gauge stays at zero. Other side shows 400 psi

Called Boyd CAT and original right valve is 5G0145, and has been changed to 1468034
They have one in stock for $1,560.00

Did some searching and there is none on the net except maybe avspare and supply.parts but those places don't look good. Also no price listed

Also I have a dipstick in the bevel gear and clutch section. Its 3 compartments but they all flow together.

Roller #13 in post 62. You said that's what you have not what Nige showed in post 69. It needs to be pressed out. I forgot you had wet brakes.

I have one of each type, and the roller is on the left side. Have old style with no roller on the right.

I'm going to remove the hydraulic line going from valve down to piston and connect gauge direct to the line.

Someone replaced it with an old one before you? I'd try to find a proper used one. I think the pressure comes from a common pump.

Welder Dave said:

Someone replaced it with an old one before you? I'd try to find a proper used one. I think the pressure comes from a common pump.

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I would like to find a used one. Did one search and traxx used parts wants 1450.00 for a used one

At any rate it is the valve, with gauge direct connection I'm getting about 125 psi on a 3500 psi gauge

That's a crazy price for a used one. You could try a place like Finney or maybe Offroad Parts that Nige has mentioned in other posts.

Have check some and will look into those also if I can find them
Did find Finney