Allis Chalmers m-100

I may be wrong, here, but it looks like the front end of the shaft has a roll pin or set screw holding it on. Does the shaft telescope? If so, you may be able to take some of the slop out by welding on a new female shaft, to the shaft, but cut a slot, lengthwise, down the new female shaft section, and weld a nut, on one side of the cut, and a bushing, on the other side, add a bolt, to the other side, and clamp the repaired shaft, to the existing(worn) male shaft...

is that the same spline size as a 540pto ag tractor? if it is, you can have a machine shop cut off your old splines and weld the new coupling (or male spline) in place of your worn-out. i've used that trick over the years with satisfactory results

DIYDAVE said:

I may be wrong, here, but it looks like the front end of the shaft has a roll pin or set screw holding it on. Does the shaft telescope? If so, you may be able to take some of the slop out by welding on a new female shaft, to the shaft, but cut a slot, lengthwise, down the new female shaft section, and weld a nut, on one side of the cut, and a bushing, on the other side, add a bolt, to the other side, and clamp the repaired shaft, to the existing(worn) male shaft...

Click to expand...

If you look in the picture where I show the floor board off, the shaft is sitting there. It is a solid shaft, the only sliding action is on the steady bearing splines. I was hoping to try and find a new splined yoke and then try out that titanium putty or similar product.

56wrench said:

is that the same spline size as a 540pto ag tractor? if it is, you can have a machine shop cut off your old splines and weld the new coupling (or male spline) in place of your worn-out. i've used that trick over the years with satisfactory results

Click to expand...

I’m unsure, I will end of popping off that yoke with the female splined end and taking it to John Deere with the steady bearing. See if they can help me find an ag yoke that I can replace it with. The bearings in the steady bearing are still okay, it’s just the shaft that is worn a bit. But looking at the posts about that titanium putty and others I think I’ll try find a new yoke. Cover that shaft with the putty and try get it to form to the new yoke dimensions

Those splines only have about half the wear the ones on my tiller had. If you do end up using it, things have to be really clean. Also, I doubt if I can ever get mine apart again which is fine since it doesn't get much use.

chroniekon said:

Those splines only have about half the wear the ones on my tiller had. If you do end up using it, things have to be really clean. Also, I doubt if I can ever get mine apart again which is fine since it doesn't get much use.

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I was going to try and get a new yoke. And put the putty on the splines of the shaft instead. And when i put the yoke onto the shaft i would lightly coat the yoke with oil so that the putty wont be able to stick to it. and still be able to slide.

I cant permanently mount the yoke to the shaft i'll never be able to change the u joints if i do. I mean i could but it would be a royal pain in the arse.

Sounds like a plan. I'm not sure about the oil, but some kind of release agent is a good idea.

chroniekon said:

Sounds like a plan. I'm not sure about the oil, but some kind of release agent is a good idea.

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I actually just thought of something else. That I can do right now without needing any type of additional product. Since my yokes are garbage anyways. I was thinking about cutting two slits into the yoke and then putting on a type of clamp around it to really grab the shaft, that way there won’t be any movement. And if I need to take it off I can loosen the bolts and slide it right off. It’s free with the spare bolts and scrap I have here, and I don’t need to order anything in. Then I can finish it sooner.

ippielb said:

I actually just thought of something else. That I can do right now without needing any type of additional product. Since my yokes are garbage anyways. I was thinking about cutting two slits into the yoke and then putting on a type of clamp around it to really grab the shaft, that way there won’t be any movement. And if I need to take it off I can loosen the bolts and slide it right off. It’s free with the spare bolts and scrap I have here, and I don’t need to order anything in. Then I can finish it sooner.

Click to expand...

That's kinda what I was suggesting, but those are some honkin thick yokes there. Since most of the wear seems to be on the female half, I'd replace that, and do the single cut method, but that's just me...

This may be of use...

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power...-3-8-6T-Splined-Coupling-167-02206-1-1562.axd

DIYDAVE said:

That's kinda what I was suggesting, but those are some honkin thick yokes there. Since most of the wear seems to be on the female half, I'd replace that, and do the single cut method, but that's just me...

This may be of use...

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power...-3-8-6T-Splined-Coupling-167-02206-1-1562.axd

Click to expand...

you are completely right. I actually read it as cutting the shaft for some reason. I just read telescoping. Should’ve read it more thorough. That is a great idea.

is that the actual size and everything I’d need? I should see if my local John Deere has anything like that in stock.

ippielb said:

you are completely right. I actually read it as cutting the shaft for some reason. I just read telescoping. Should’ve read it more thorough. That is a great idea.

is that the actual size and everything I’d need? I should see if my local John Deere has anything like that in stock.

Click to expand...

If that is a 1-3/8 X 6 spline ag type shaft, it should fit. Its 2" O.D., IIRR...

I have another question. Both my hydroboost units are leaking. The one for the hydraulic brakes is leaking mainly at the input shaft. And the hydraulic clutch is dumping out as well.

is there still rebuild kits going around?

I would take the unit off, and take it to an old man behind the parts counter at old, brick and mortar auto parts store... Oh, and another idea, take this question over to the construction machinery section, of the unofficial Allis web page, there might be some guys, there who have some experience in this very problem...HTH!

https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/construction-and-other-equipment_forum3.html

DIYDAVE said:

I would take the unit off, and take it to an old man behind the parts counter at old, brick and mortar auto parts store... Oh, and another idea, take this question over to the construction machinery section, of the unofficial Allis web page, there might be some guys, there who have some experience in this very problem...HTH!

https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/construction-and-other-equipment_forum3.html

Click to expand...

You know it's someone that has been around, when they pull an actual book out from under the counter.

If the boosters are still working ok and not leaking an unbearable amount of oil, I think I would let sleeping dogs lie and not disturb them until you were able to secure a seal kit.

Another update, sucked it up, bought two new yokes. 1-1/8” shaft, 6 coarse spline, 1200 series PTO shaft yoke. They were $66 a piece plus tax. The new ones had holes on either side for a roll pin to go through so I tapped them, and put in bolts, with a jam but to really secure them on the splines. Worked very well actually, those two new yokes don’t wobble at all, but the front yoke right at the gearbox for the controls, wobbles a lot still. Never even thought to get a new yoke for the front. I should get a new yoke for it as well.

rad cap was not sealing in the least, so I put on a new one, and oh my lanta did I figure out how much my rad leaks when under pressure. I really don’t feel like repairing all the leaks, so I dumped a thing of rad stop leak into it. See how it works out, if it helps at all.

Engine still won’t fire without ether down the throat turning over, my batteries aren’t strong enough to keep it turning at the fully charged battery state. Also tried to get the generator phased and I couldn’t figure it out. From my memory of taking the field wire off the generator and then sparking it from the positive battery post a couple times did make a decent spark, but when I stuck my volt meter on it to see if it was charging I had no voltage coming from the field post. Or the other one.

grader has fresh oil, fresh fuel filters, topped up coolant with rad stop leak, new yokes and U joints on the pto shafts.

I took it out for a little work on the drive way again, last time I did it I left washboards in it. I wanted to improve it. So made a few passes.

Second time playing in the grader since my surgery.

Ever consider putting an alternator on it. I know a lot of guys ditch the generator for alternators on their old farm tractors. Are you standing up, or are you that tall? I used to stand up in an old Austen Westen, but a few trips into the windshield got me sitting down.

I’m 6’3 and I’m standing up operating. Habit of watching the blade, but standing up makes it hard because my legs auto correct for balance when I’m use to sitting on my butt and letting my ears tell me I’m leaning.

I was hoping to figure out this generator, trying to keep this a low budget as I can. Since I’m still not into the grader for $2,000 yet. Plus the grader is still 24v.

I also have a new master cylinder coming for the brakes, old one was dry as a fart and full of rust, didn’t want to chase my tail with that one.

Well, took the grader out into the hay field to level off gopher mounds. Was into it for probably 30 minutes when the upper rad hose came apart. The previous owner did some Jerry rigging. Literally a 2-1/4”” ID hose over a 2-1/4” OD hose, and a hose clamp with some silicone. No reinforcing piped, literally hose to hose.

So I got a couple pieces of pipe, made an adapter with two different sized pipes and welded a lip around the outer edges, put it back on and it worked great. No leaks, until the one hose finally got up to pressure warming up and then it split down the side. That was a pain, the hose is so old it doesn’t even have nylon reinforcing weave in the hose. So literally it ripped with almost no effort.

Going to get a new one tomorrow, and hopefully I can finish that field.

Someone recently sent me this old photo of an M100 punching above it's weight.
It would be a toss up as to which had the most horsepower, the grader or the Leyland Comet...slow trip either way.
The gear belonged to our local council in the late 60s.

Those tires look pretty good haha my drive tires are not great. One is missing a lug, one is backwards. Steer tires are bald as can be.

I was quickly grading the yard today, and the circle turn has gotten jammed up. The shafts rotate up to the transfer case gearbox. But jam after 1/2 rotation, with the output not moving at all.

happened when I was rotating with a blade full of material. Let me tell you the 20 minutes I did in that grader felt like hours haha I’m spoiled rotten with the new iron I get to run at work. Much respect to those who use to run these full time.