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Case 580 Super L

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Austin Twite

Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Overland Park KS
I have what I beleive is a 1997 Case 580 Super L. The tractor starts after we get the battery recharged. I plan on replacing that soon.

I cannot get the tractor to go into a gear. It is stuck in neutral. Any help would be appreciated. This tractor ran great about 2 years ago. A guy wanted to buy it from a farmer and magically when he went to make the offer, it didn't go into gear. He had been operating the tractor on the farm previously. I think he disconnected something to try and rip the farmer off. The farmer decided not to sell it to him and now we have it. It sat for approximately 1 year.

The PIN number is JJG0194011.

I shall add some relays were replaced by the farmer's son to try and get it running. I am new to this and trying to learn, so be easy lol.
 
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T

Tinkerer

Senior Member
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May 21, 2009
Messages
9,367
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
Welcome to HEF, Austin,
First thing you need is a service manual. Ebay is a good place to find one.
Your tractor has switches and relays that most likely is your problem.
I am posting a partial section of the electrical schematic that is in the afore mentioned service manual.
Hover your computer pointer over the image and click on it to enlarge it.

sl.png
 
A

Austin Twite

Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Overland Park KS
So I found one wire that a mouse chewed the plastic off of it down to the wires. I replaced that section of wire and the solenoid is getting power. There is clicking going on at relays when I press button on gear selector and when i choose drive selector. I lifted all tires off ground and put in drive tires barely went forward. Put it in reverse tires slowly went forward, no reverse. I did notice the landing gear or feet cylinders were leaking hydraulic fluid. It was whiteish milly color. Also has new battery. Any help would be appreciated!
 
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highwayghost

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2019
Messages
315
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Occupation
Emissions Analyst
Austin Twite said:
hydraulic fluid. It was whiteish milly color.
Click to expand...

Lets see what the oil tells us. To find out about the 'whiteish' oil you see on the stabilizers, pull the drain plug on the hydraulic tank and catch a sample of oil from the bottom. This isn't your drive problem as the trans and hyd. are separate systems. If it is a milky mix of water and oil then the hydraulic system needs an oil change/flush and new filter. Do the same to the trans, catch a sample from the drain plug, oil should be clean and clear. Be sure the oil level is full on the trans dipstick (left rear of engine compartment). Then post results update.
 
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highwayghost

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Nov 1, 2019
Messages
315
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Occupation
Emissions Analyst
Not for the drive. the systems are separate. It's likely electrical but still need more testing. Did you check the fuses and relays? Do you have a manual?
 
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highwayghost

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Nov 1, 2019
Messages
315
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Occupation
Emissions Analyst
F N R relays are standard relays. They can be swapped with other nonessential-known good relays such as lighting etc. and checked in other working circuits. The Shuttle Time Delay relay is special and other standard relays will not work there. A jumper wire can be installed temporarily for testing in place of the STD relay. For the diodes they are the same and can be swapped if you know what circuit is what.
 
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A

Austin Twite

Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Overland Park KS
highwayghost said:
F N R relays are standard relays. They can be swapped with other nonessential-known good relays such as lighting etc. and checked in other working circuits. The Shuttle Time Delay relay is special and other standard relays will not work there. A jumper wire can be installed temporarily for testing in place of the STD relay. For the diodes they are the same and can be swapped if you know what circuit is what.
Click to expand...
Is there any pictures of how to do this properly?
 
H

highwayghost

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Messages
315
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Occupation
Emissions Analyst
th


The above is just a typical setup. To confirm, test the four terminals on your STD relay socket in the fuse panel. The machine wiring diagram and color coding could be helpful.
1) One terminal will be ground (-).
2) One terminal will have power(+) when the key is turned on and power off when the key is off.
3) One terminal (with key on) will switch power(+) on and off as the FNR selector on the dash is moved to F or R and back to N.
4) One terminal will not have power or ground, although it may show some ground (more resistance) as it is connected indirectly to a coil that is connected to ground.

Jump a wire between 2 and 4, likely 30 and 87 of the above diagram. This will bypass the relay.
If I remember correctly it will be the terminals at 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock.
 
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