99%sure you can do what you need without adjusting the relief setting. The 'conceptual" drawing in post #6, 8-65 shows how the cartridge valve functions and sort of how it's constructed. I bet there's two o rings there.
That is good news...i really dont wanna mess with the settings cause every function works good..it just drips..constantly..lol
I will repeat that I have never had one apart. That said, I have to trust the illustration depiction in the manual as I see it until I know otherwise.
Figure 8-138 clearly shows where the body threads are. The blue area is defined as an oil galley containing exhaust oil if the valve was overcome with pressure. It looks to me like the poppet valve #2 and seat #1 are NOT contained by the body in any way. If I am interpreting the illustration correctly the poppet valve and it's spring will come out when the body is unscrewed. The seat #1 is also subject to fall out. Whether or not it will come out with force or the threads are long enough to relieve all the spring pressure remains to be seen.
It may be obvious when the body is loosened. If it is self contained it should turn easily after one full turn. If at that time you feel spring pressure I would advise against unscrewing it without backing off on the adjustment.
As long as you count the number of turns the adjustment screw requires to relieve spring tension you should be able to get it back where it belongs.
Toxic, You can do what you want but the way I would approach is to loosen the body. If I felt any spring tension I would tighten it back, remove the cap, and back off on the adjustment several half turns. You should be able to feel when the spring tension is released but I would proceed with caution. There is no guarantee it won't have pressure all the way to the end of the threads. Either way, expect the valve poppet and spring to come out. I would hold a rag around it as I unscrewed any part of it to try and capture the parts.
#5 in the parts diagram is listed as a gasket, part number 9968509 @ $12 to $20 depending on which dealer you ask. It might be something special or a plain ol o-ring. I personally wouldn't buy one until I took the assembly out and looked at it. I have boxes of o-rings and I am not squeamish about replacing a square with a round if it looks like it will compress and seal. As long as you use an o-ring with the right durometer for sealing hydraulics you should be good. It's not hard to see if it will be too large or small in diameter to seal properly.
It doesn't look like too big of a deal. A little caution and common sense should make this an easy fix.