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Transmission for 1986 S1954 IH

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Spud_Monkey

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DMiller said:
Cannot do voltage on both sides at once, BAD JUJU!!
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Yep I do know that one, what’s weird is it does it like a turn signal yet one isn’t on. So time to find a new wire to do the whole truck from shifter to splitter. Thought about toggling a 2 way switch in with marine 3 wire I have here.
 
DMiller

DMiller

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Start reviewing the system for a feeder relay, sounds as someone plugged a flasher in where a three terminal relay should be.
 
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Spud_Monkey

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CEASE FIRE!!! Okay all is wired up with new wiring. The pulse of the electricity is from a onboard inverter that the meter is picking up. As for the splitter motor is fine, I will finish up tomorrow but as it sits it's now shifting. Thirty-four year old wire just got old and few mice made a snack of it, might need some metal cladded wire in the future of where this rig goes.
 
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Spud_Monkey

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Do I need to change the pins out too when I change the springs out on this rig or can I get by with new bushings and new u bolts? Don't see any rust as is as if they were loose like on lug nuts so I think I am fine from looking at them without taking them off.
 
DMiller

DMiller

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Will not fully know until pull them
Have reused pins in the past if not worn too much or too aggressively
 
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Spud_Monkey

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DMiller said:
Did a Google on Beaumont, try City Spring 798 College as to what they can do or who recommend.

City Spring & Brake Services
4.2 (17) · Brake shop
Beaumont, TX
(409) 833-5695
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They don't make them and they referred me to Beaumont Frame and Front End which wanted to charge me more than International factory ones want to charge meo_O
 
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Spud_Monkey

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I decided to replace all the hardware from bushings to pins and bolts when I put the newish leaf springs on. The bill of lading said 404 lbs not including the pallet so I reckon I was moving around 200 lbs. of leaf spring, used floor jack to get them up. They gave me the wrong u bolts but I managed to shorten them down and ran a die to get more threads. I know not as strong as rolled threads but, it held up 300 ft lbs of torque. Had to use ratchet straps to line axle u bolt holes up with shock perch plate plus a shim with couple jacks. Will put on new shocks tomorrow and put bumper back on, it’s ready to go. Enjoy...
KIMG0888.JPG C0A518B1-96B0-4130-A3D8-23AC038361D8.jpeg 4071EDB3-2F77-4B64-9EC8-533A54873721.jpeg
 
DMiller

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Not changed springs hangers and all, generally left hangers hanging and pulled pins, seemed to me easier to align the holes that way as well lighter. To each his own!!

Have nearly always had to use a strap or come along or some other small assist device as not enough hands or bodies, seems to have worked well for ya there so Kudos on that. ALWAYS a way to add a leverage for us old wrench heads.

Would still be entertaining a Look around for a Air Brake SA Tractor that has been neglected some, snatch it up for a decent price and start the mods as can budget up to replace the Old Beer Wagon.
 
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Spud_Monkey

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DMiller said:
Not changed springs hangers and all, generally left hangers hanging and pulled pins, seemed to me easier to align the holes that way as well lighter. To each his own!!

Have nearly always had to use a strap or come along or some other small assist device as not enough hands or bodies, seems to have worked well for ya there so Kudos on that. ALWAYS a way to add a leverage for us old wrench heads.

Would still be entertaining a Look around for a Air Brake SA Tractor that has been neglected some, snatch it up for a decent price and start the mods as can budget up to replace the Old Beer Wagon.
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Didn't feel like holding the springs up in the air as I sledge hammered pins into the hangers, it was bad enough my dad was trying to get me to put them in the press, as if I wanted to lift them that high up. Plus no swinging room, yeah these aren't the just push them in by hand pins, they had to be pressed out along with the bushings too which I did with sledge and sockets. Ratchet straps, F clamps or C clamps are my friends here with pry bars.
Yeah would be nice to put air brakes and such on, but first I need more power!!! Already turned the injector pump up and have a list of things to go down to get it up to around 250 or 300, only lacking time. Just redid the front with new brakes last year so looking to wear them down at least halfway down before I start taking a Look Around, plus I would have to redo my CDL when I get to air brakes and I just took that test.
 
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Time to mount some new gauges since I'm too poor to buy a rig already loaded with such luxury. Swear if I ever sell this rig as a whole this will be my evidence that anything was done and when it was done. Measuring it up and marking, not bad for free hand guessing and piece of pipe. Yeah that's my "emergency brake" line lock and trailer brake below installed I did.
KIMG0899.JPG
I purposely put the bit in backwards for guiding the hole saw in to prevent it from walking around and making a hole bigger than anticipated.
KIMG0900.JPG
Pre drilled holes before putting hole saw bit in, who says you need fancy tools to install gauges. Decided after this picture to move the EGT gauge to the top next to engine temp, picture of that later when I get all gauges in.
KIMG0901.JPG KIMG0903.JPG
Going to put in boost gauge in second hole, just haven't figured out the third hole, any suggestions on must need?
 
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RZucker said:
If you drive in icing conditions, an outside temp gauge is kind of nice to have.
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I was thinking same thing though I didn't know if there was something more dire needed to be watched. Though thanks for the idea, I'm still open for more...
 
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The 74 Peterbilt I had was originally sold to an owner/operator, he sure liked his gauges. It had quite the list:
Oil pressure, Primary air
Water temp, Secondary air
Engine oil temp, Application air
Trans oil temp, Emergency line air
Diff temp (1), Outside air temp
Boost, Analog clock
Fuel pressure (at the rail), Volts AND amps
All this plus the speedo and tach, for some reason I think I'm missing two more.
At least everything was clustered in relevant areas so monitoring the important stuff was second nature. Oh, the oil pressure and water temp gages were the 2-5/8" size that made them stand out.
For some reason the list won't post as 2 separate columns. :oops:
 
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