DirtyHoe
Senior Member
I'm rebuilding the leaky loader control valve on my 580C. I got stuck removing the plastic gland nut and didn't want to butcher it up using the wrong hand tools(It's the machinist in me). So I was going to CNC mill a custom castle nut tool then decided that would take too long. I decided to see if a plastic printed 3D tool would hold up. It took me 15 minutes to draw it as a solid model after taking some basic measurements with a pair of dial calipers. The printer took about 80 minutes to print it. I was shocked at how strong the plastic is. Very accurate too. I had to hit the teeth with a couple of passes of the file to knock the crumbs off from the printing process. The gland was stuck pretty good and I did not shear any of the teeth off. Worked like a charm.
Next, I'm going to rebuild the sloppy loader linkages that move the bucket and loader spools. After drilling and reaming the holes I will install IGUS polymer bearings and plug the grease zerks with a threaded plug. It will run dry forever with no maintenance.
Anything I need to look out for on this rebuild that is not mentioned in the manual? I'm going to replace 100% of the soft parts.
Steve
Next, I'm going to rebuild the sloppy loader linkages that move the bucket and loader spools. After drilling and reaming the holes I will install IGUS polymer bearings and plug the grease zerks with a threaded plug. It will run dry forever with no maintenance.
Anything I need to look out for on this rebuild that is not mentioned in the manual? I'm going to replace 100% of the soft parts.
Steve