Which type of additive

I recently had a water-in-fuel problem and there's nothing more effective in learning the importance of keeping the fuel clean than 2 weeks of downtime.

I wound up using Howe's and Diesel 911, and I've got Killem Biocide ready to go.

From my readings (that means: I know very little), the Killem kills the live growing sludge, the Howes demulsifies the water (i.e., separates it out from the diesel so it can be drained) and minimizes cold weather gelling, and the 911 de-gels gelled diesel and is a solubilizer (as opposed to emulsifier or demulsifier), which supposedly is the best approach to water in diesel.

Now I know there are plenty of very good other products (Stanadyne, for example, or a cetane booster), and I'd appreciate any suggestions.

My question is: Can I and should I use multiple products, as they don't all do the same thing?

Thanks!

I keep my diesel in the 5 gallon containers. Before I fill the containers, I put some Power Service Diesel Kleen (silver bottle) in so that it’s already treated when I top off my skidsteer/equipment.

Also keep some 911 on hand just in case, but haven’t had to use it for years.

Sounds like the Diesel 911 is saved for times when problems exist, whereas the Diesel Kleen is used preventatively. That's a good way to think about these things.

Kleen is fuel system cleaner and cetane booster.

Howes diesel treatment is an anti-gel, lubircator and demulsifier.

Howes also has a system cleaner and cetane booster.

So the situation gets even more complicated.

Should I use a separate anti-gel, biocide, system cleaner, cetane booster, water treater (when emulsifier, demulsifier or solubizer)? They seem to me to have completely different effects on the fuel -- all of which sound important.

Been using Howes as PS had been less than effective a few years back, seemed they had reformulated to some standard change. Ridding water is better than incorporating into the fuel, does nasty things in high heat regions as the water re-emerges and flashes off to steam. I always preferred when wrenching to get customer to run machines LOW as feasible in tanks, drain off residuals and refill with Non watered fuel, cleaning a tank of Algae is a lot easier on systems than biociding the crap out of bad fuel and feeding that goo thru MULTIPLE filters changes where they seem to never stop once start. Brush piles and cleaning buckets benefit from junk diesel more than engines and Wallets do.

DMiller said:

Been using Howes as PS had been less than effective a few years back, seemed they had reformulated to some standard change. Ridding water is better than incorporating into the fuel, does nasty things in high heat regions as the water re-emerges and flashes off to steam. I always preferred when wrenching to get customer to run machines LOW as feasible in tanks, drain off residuals and refill with Non watered fuel, cleaning a tank of Algae is a lot easier on systems than biociding the crap out of bad fuel and feeding that goo thru MULTIPLE filters changes where they seem to never stop once start. Brush piles and cleaning buckets benefit from junk diesel more than engines and Wallets do.

Click to expand...

LOL -- the attached is a real time (current) pic of my barrel full of brush pile additive.

The PS 911 is just for dealing with gelled ULSD#2 in cold conditions. It's not going to help with your water problems. First thing is to figure out where the water is coming from and fix that.

You may not need to use any additive. Contact your fuel supplier if they are additizing the fuel they sell. You may be surprised to hear they are already adding something. For example, the fuel supplier I work for uses Power Service DieselKleen to all the fuel they retail.

Nothing wrong with running a cetane improver/lubricant. Actually, a good idea on older fuel systems. Stanadyne, Howes, PS, whatever,.. its mostly branding and advertising. The reality is most of the blenders all use the same proprietary additive that a certain German company supplies. Look up the sds for any of those products. It's mostly stoddard solvent and a small amount of the "propriety" magic in that bottle. Maybe some light injector cleaner, a cold flow improver ( not needed in warm climates or places that blend for the winter) and a touch of cetane improver.

Some additives use alcohol, which I think is bad because it will carry the water right to the injectors through the water seperater and filters. Then, the water turns to steam and blows the injector tips off. Plus, back in the old days, the alchohol containing additives would destroy plastic parts inside the fuel injector pumps like the governor widget insid the Standayne/Roosamaster DB2 pumps.