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JLG 400S/Deutz: broken start switch/relay?

clutzer

Active Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2019
Messages
32
Location
usa
Folks, super weird thing happened to my 2005 JLG 400S: after hitting the stop button from the basket, the engine seemed to turn off, but the starter engaged turning the engine until it burned out. This has happened twice in a matter of two weeks.

After "shutting everything off" and taking the key out, I used a voltmeter to observe 12V on the starter control wire. I seem to have some sort of an electrical problem. I'm about to begin the wonderful journey of going through a wiring diagram, testing relays if there are any, etc.

Has anybody else experienced this type of electrical issue? It seems like something shorted such that the starter control wire asserts 12V all the time--I had to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery in order for the starter to finally stop.

Thanks everyone!
 

clutzer

Active Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2019
Messages
32
Location
usa
Resolved: the START RELAY, which on my Deutz JLG is under the oil filters and was covered in oil and dirt. After cleaning the relay, it reset to open, and the system is back to normal.
 

TommyJLG

Active Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2020
Messages
31
Location
Spicewood, Tx
Hi Clutzer and anyone else reading. Sorry to highjack your thread. I recently purchased a 2005 F 3M 2011 Deutz (ser #1037316) 400S and in the process of changing fluids and filters. I could not find anywhere instructions on changing engine oil and figured it would be easy but am having an issue. The drain plug is on the side of the pan on the "in" side with only a small space to access and the oil drains over the thick mounting plate causing it to spread and drain all over the place. I left the plug out for about 20 minutes and checked the dipstick which showed empty. I replaced 5 quarts with Schaeffer's 5 - 40 synthetic and dipstick showed full. It ran for a few minutes and checked the dipstick again. The oil was black so I must have not drained all the oil. A few questions please:
* Okay to run full synthetic? Or now what appears to be a mixture of 5+ quarts new and 1+ quart of who knows what?
* Info on web says 6.3 quarts of oil, correct?
* Is there an easier way to drain the engine?
* There are 2 fill caps on the engine. 1 on top and 1 on the rear "in" side. Is there another reservoir to drain and fill?
* Should I drain and start over since the new oil seems to be mixed with old oil? I have no idea the type of old oil in the engine.
* The dipstick I have only has 1 set of hash marks. The dipstick in the operation and parts manuals show 2 sets of hash marks (1 set for cold and 1 set for hot). Do I have the wrong dipstick?

Any and all help greatly appreciated!! Thank you!!
 

kapope712

Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2017
Messages
9
Location
Pipersville, PA
TommyJLG,

The Deutz drains from a drain-cock on the inside of the motor and through a rubber hose (it should be poking through the plate under the engine. If you don’t know, the whole engine module swings out away from the center of the machine by removing (1) 15/16 bolt on the underside rear of the engine. (You do not need to remove the oil pan drain plug)

The reason the oil still looked black after your oil change is because the engine is oil-cooled. You have to drain the oil cooler along with the engine oil pan to do a complete oil change. I don’t know if it’s necessary or not but I fill my oil cooler with a funnel from one of the upper lines. I think in total it takes 10.5-11 quarts of oil.
 

kapope712

Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2017
Messages
9
Location
Pipersville, PA
TommyJLG,

The Deutz drains from a drain-cock on the inside of the motor and through a rubber hose (it should be poking through the plate under the engine. If you don’t know, the whole engine module swings out away from the center of the machine by removing (1) 15/16 bolt on the underside rear of the engine. (You do not need to remove the oil pan drain plug)

The reason the oil still looked black after your oil change is because the engine is oil-cooled. You have to drain the oil cooler along with the engine oil pan to do a complete oil change. I don’t know if it’s necessary or not but I fill my oil cooler with a funnel from one of the upper lines. I think in total it takes 10.5-11 quarts of oil.

To clarify, it’s 10.5 qts in the oil pan, 11 qts with filter, and 16 qts with the oil cooler change.
 

TommyJLG

Active Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2020
Messages
31
Location
Spicewood, Tx
10-4. Thank you. We will probably replace the timing belt and it appears the oil cooler has to be removed for the operation so will replace oil upon completion. If okay with you, I will start a new thread on timing belt replacement.
 
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