mg2361
Senior Member
Can it be in framed?
Nope. Not unless you want to remove the bottom guards and the fuel tank. I would remove the engine. The engine can be removed in a snap on 644E's.
Can it be in framed?
But I concur with the posters before that with those kind of hours I would just go on and build it. Can it be in framed? Of course turbo and injectors would need to be addressed as well.
are the cylinder head valve depths as critical as it was years back?
I have the big paper set, parts, couple service books, wiring diagram and something else too,Yes everything is in the service manual CTM1. I would upload it here but it's 30+ MB. Send me a pm with your email.
I have the big paper set, parts, couple service books, wiring diagram and something else too,
Oh of course not! I mean certainly that book has all the raw data, and a lot of it! but the experience of someone that's been ears deep is the appendix the books are missing. Generally with a 12pc hammer set and some vice grips and the book I can get by. But like on the hydraulic piston seals, there is no mention of using a ring cut from a 2 liter bottle and a worm hose clamp to precompress that soft gray sealing ring versus letting it stand for 8 hours or such. The Deere is at the shooting club shop and most of the times I'll get there with the intent to so some research when someone comes over to borrow a tool, complain about something, ask for help moving something big etc. I love how detailed the wiring diagram is though.Good deal, you confused me by the question of if the head specs were in the service manual.. I would have assumed you'd have read through it already.
Now I have the manual set or so I thought, is there one that covers engine overhaul?
I think I'm in error! Looking at the engine tag and it calls itself a 6076T not a 6466T is that a different manual? CTM6 possibly, hard to get solid data on it. Are the differences between the two huge?Yes everything is in the service manual CTM1. I would upload it here but it's 30+ MB. Send me a pm with your email.
I got lucky, the splines and the weird rubber coupler on the flywheel were both in great conditionWe just finished our 544E engine. 13000 hrs never been into, head had so many cracks, not visible on deck, that it wasnt feasible to fix. It had been putting coolant in the crankcase for 3-4 years, I would go out and drain it off every couple days, when it got to a cupfull a day I told the boss its time. LOL
2 spun mains, 1 spun rod. Had the block reconned, got a good standard crank, rods rebuilt. Exchange head. Its in the machine and should have it running next week,
Moral is, inspect everything closely , replace rod and head bolts.
ALSO, check the trans input driveshaft, if it is siezed on the slip, while the engine is out pull the convertor cover and replace the bearing, when stuck it will pull on the convertor and eat the bearing and pull the pump drive shaft out of the convertor splines. Then you have to get a long die grinder and de-burr the splines in the convertor hub, while sucking the oil out. Very tedious, trust me on this,.LOL