case 580b 1974 outrigger cylinder rebuild

yes heated the pin to just barely cherry let it sit and slightly cool and then tapped with brass hammer to vibrate. i cant tell from what i can see if there is bushings or not and my case manual has no schematic on there side shift design.

Try your ideas first, they may work.
If I had it in my shop I would cut the mount completely through (off) just above the pin. Then the pin could be cut on each side of the rod eye.
Burn the pin stubs out of the mount.
A simple job of welding the mount back together after that.

At this point I wish it was in your shop. Haha thanks for your insight. And I may be shipping it to your shop if I can’t get it out.

I an no mechanic but I like your idea of welding the largest nut possible to the pin. Let some candle wax melt on the shaft as it cools. Then try the impact when it’s totally cooled off.

Is candle wax preferred over the penetrating sprays/oil ?? I sure wish I would have payed closer attention to the old school mechanics that I was around. Without any of the latest tools those guys always got there issues solved
And once again thanks to everyone who offered tips.

Yes, candle wax does work.
If you weld a nut on like bootheel suggests, an air chisel with a pointed bit applied in the nut while trying to turn the nut back and forth may be your best option. I have had very good results with air chisels used like that. Especially on steering wheels that are stuck.
My suggestion to cut the mount is a last resort option.

I was afraid you may have this problem.....
Without being to hit the pin out, I think you will be chasing your tail.
I would take a good look at making an access hole in the framework to be able to drive that pin out - I just don't know why such a hole is not already there???
I'm hoping it is possible to make the hole, perhaps the frame design won't allow it??

Failing that, the way I use to remove such a pin is to use oxy acetylene & blow the centre of the pin out - cutting from each end - when it cools it will often simply tap out with a 2lb hammer....... but I usually have access to both ends of the pin ........ A thermic lance would fix it for sure........

Elksniper,

I don’t want to sound too pessimistic, but from the pipe wrench witness marks on the pin in the picture, it appears the pin is soft and likely significantly galled in the bosses. Therefore, even if you can get to the backside to pound on it, you will take the risk of swelling the pin by hammering on it and make matters worse.

Since you are asking for suggestions and are already considering welding a nut on, can you get your hands on a hollow ram hydraulic cylinder and hand pump? My local hydraulic shop has let me borrow rams in the past, or possibly a good equipment rental business to rent one along with a hand pump?

If so, get a piece of good B7 all-thread rod (not the cheap all thread rod at the lumber yard) and weld a piece on to the pin. Then you should be able to pull the pin with the cylinder. Sometimes a little heat on the bosses also helps to break things loose.

Here is an example video. He is using an air actuated pump, but I have always used just a plain 10000 psi hand pump.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq9G73_o7ug

This may be overkill if you think you can get the pin to move with a nut welded on, but I am guessing that adding a nut won’t change things unless the heat from the welding frees things up.

Again just suggestions for your consideration.
Good luck, and as Alrman stated, Think Safety!

Thank you for the link. Very interesting. I will investigate that further if I have no luck with the tools and patience I have avaible . I agree with trying to access the back side of the pin as some have suggested.But I beleive there would be three differnt pieces of steel that I’d have to cut through ..I will look into this option when I get back to the machine
Regarding the b7 all thread ?? Would a grade 8 or better bolt welded with the head be a better option as I’m imagining that I could Probably get a better weld on the bolt head than juts all thread and assure that everything stays plumb for the pull? I’m not very familiar with different Grades of bolts / all thread and all thread to me has always been the lumber yard variety and I have not been very impressed with it. Thanks to all I will have another attempt at it in two days and will advise how it goes.

While I am not metallurgical engineer and far from a good welder, a grade 8 bolt would probably work as the tensile strength would be slightly higher that B7 rod. Depending on the diameter of bolt selected, a concern would be the bolt shank may yield before a piece of all-thread rod would.

Said another way, the diameter of the bolt shank would be smaller than the bolt head size being welded to the pin, while the diameter of all-thread rod is uniform for the whole length.

My only firsthand experience is based on using B7 all-thread rod for the convenience. As long as the end of the all-thread rod is cut perpendicular and flat, it should be the same as bolt head.

If you can’t get B7 locally, there are numerous internet sources for small quantities. Example McMaster-Carr
www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/3354

Good luck and please advise how things go.

ok that makes sense Thanks again to everyone. I've gotten a few plans formulated. the last one includes selling just the hoe minus the stabilizer... just kidding.

I am curious as to what the Model # is of your sideshift.

I beleive iit says 35 on the plate. But I will confirm when I get to the tractor. The tractor is a 580ckb and per serial number it comes out as 1973-1975 from I got off the Internet search.

It isn't a 35 that I am familiar with.
Here is an accurate serial number guide.

Ok the identification tag on the control tower of the backhoe :580b
35S. 5286089
That’s the original I’d tag and the 5286089 is also stamped above the aluminum I’d tag not sure if that will tell you what you are asking about tinkerer but there it is. And the actual tractor serial # is is 8755842 and that is an Id tag on the steer column

The hollow puller is a great idea. A quick search revealed one for not too much money. You would need a pump too but there is one listed for a good deal. You are around $300 for a setup. I prefer to buy and own my own tools. This is an option and probably less than you would pay a pro to come on site and extract the pin.

https://www.amazon.com/Mophorn-Hydr...J34NDF16ZZ2&psc=1&refRID=5RYAZXV7QJ34NDF16ZZ2

The pin has decided to join the outside world. Thansk to all who gave ideas. The design of this sideshift in my humorous opinion . Was built around these pins.
I ended up haveing to cut the top plate off to get better access to lube and vibrate (big a** hammer) the inner most boss.
And eventually welded grade 8
7/8” bolt and used that to pull a 1/16 of a turn then vibrate then pull.
It eventually learned how to avoid that method as well and got stuck again
So the next plan was to barely heat the bosses with tension on the pin between vibrate and very slow warming of the bosses and only the bosses it came out. Thanks to all. If anyone is interested I have some pics I could upload if it may help someone later on.

Thanks for posting back with the good news.
Pictures are always welcome and useful !

The first pic was of cutting the top plate to access the rear boss
2nd pic was of the puller the puller that I fabricated Thanks to this forum and the third pic was after a successful extrication Hope this helps someone else