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JD 310E transmission pull/repair help?

mg2361

mg2361

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Start with Hygard and see what happens. Are you sure the breather on top of the torque converter housing is free and clear? Does your dipstick have a notch down through the threads as a secondary breather?
 
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JL Sargent

JL Sargent

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I was thinking about this bubble think last night and couldn't believe the trans only made bubbles with tractor moving. I swapped in the HyGard today and ran the tractor at a much higher idle this time for 10 minutes parked and got bubbles. That makes more sense to me. So before I was at a low idle while parked, but driving it around at a much higher engine speed.

Doesn't the problem just about have to be on the suction side of the trans (IE: up to and including the charge pump)?
I see no external leaks on the trans case anywhere.
What's been done so far:
New Charge pump, all new o-rings on pump and pickup tube. I inspected that pickup tube carefully on the bench. I spent a good 30 minutes cleaning all the debris out of it.
Kinda at a loss on it. What to do next? :eek: I'm guessing pull the main hydraulic pump and the charge pump inspecting the sealing surfaces and o-rings for misplacement or damage?
 
mg2361

mg2361

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Don't pull the pump yet. Driving the machine could create fine bubbles from the gears churning the oil. Yours appears to be a bit more bubbly (like my personality....NOT) than I would expect. I am currently working on a 310SE. When I get a chance I'll try duplicating what your doing and look at the oil to see what I get (and I'll post pictures). Might be a day or two since I have the steering cylinder off.
 
JL Sargent

JL Sargent

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When I installed the main hyd. pump to the charge pump, I put the o-ring in the charge pump first and then pushed the hyd. pump in place. maybe I pushed that o-ring out of position? I suspect a better way would have been to install the o-ring on the main hyd. pump first and then install the two together in the charge pump. Could that being out of place cause these tiny bubbles? When it quits raining here, I'll check that. Might be this weekend before we have dry weather around here.
 
JL Sargent

JL Sargent

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Pulled the main hyd pump and checked that o-ring and cleaned everything. Put it back together. Slowly but surely the tiny bubbles reappeared.
Is it possible that air is getting in the fluid somewhere other than the suction side of the charge pump?
 
T

Tinkerer

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It would be unusual for air to enter the pressurized side of the pump.
Check it carefully
Is there any chance that the pickup tube is loose or is badly sealed ? Or a fine crack in it --------------------------------------------- here ↓
pipe.png
 
JL Sargent

JL Sargent

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Tinkerer said:
Or a fine crack in it
Click to expand...
Anything is possible I guess. I spent a lot of time on that pickup tube cleaning it and looking it over. I wish I had used a magnifying glass on it now! I removing and reinstalled it with a new o-ring and torqued to spec with the recommended 242 locktite. I've tightened the bolts on the control valve for good measure and installed a gauge on the system pressure port. It's strong at 240psi. I have not run it til that drops, but I suspect at some point the aeration will be bad enough to drop pressure and apply parking brake. I may be down at HF for that jack sooner than later. :mad:
 
T

Tinkerer

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JL Sargent said:
Anything is possible I guess. I spent a lot of time on that pickup tube cleaning it and looking it over. I wish I had used a magnifying glass on it now! I removing and reinstalled it with a new o-ring and torqued to spec with the recommended 242 locktite. I've tightened the bolts on the control valve for good measure and installed a gauge on the system pressure port. It's strong at 240psi. I have not run it til that drops, but I suspect at some point the aeration will be bad enough to drop pressure and apply parking brake. I may be down at HF for that jack sooner than later. :mad:
Click to expand...
That tells me you were quite meticulous with your assembly !
I would be suspicious of the charge pump and the filter. I would think the air has to be entering somewhere above the flooded level of the oil in the transmission.
But, as MG2361 stated it may be from the gears churning the oil.
Hold off on doing anything until he tries to duplicate your problem on the 310 he is working on.
 
Deon

Deon

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Not experienced on this machine but is it possible to pressurize the system say from the tank cap with air to find the leak. I know there is a breather that would need to be plugged off also buy possible I assume.
 
JL Sargent

JL Sargent

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Got 2 hours in on the backhoe today and all is well. During that time system pressure stayed at approx. 240 psi. I checked the trans fluid at the end of that time and had hardly any noticeable bubbles in the fluid. How can this be? I don't know. One guess is that there is always some air trapped in the suction side of the system when the machine is first cranked and that gets worked into the fluid for a while, but then dissipates after a while if transmission healthy? Anyway I dug up a and pushed over an 80ft tall hardwood tree and dressed it all back to level with no problems and not much in the way of bubbles. Bubble study adjourned for now.
 
mg2361

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JL, glad to hear it cleared up. Maybe it was slightly air bound at start up?? For what it is worth, I did finally got back to that "E" I was working on yesterday and after running at fast idle for 10 minutes I had no bubbles. Ran with the rear wheels off the ground in 4th gear for 5 minutes and only had the tiniest of bubbles that you had to look real close to see (essentially clear as far as I was concerned). I would have posted pictures but they came out blurry (it was the camera not the picture taker, I swear:D). I'm new to the smart phone thing and I'm still trying to figure it out:eek:.
 
M

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Hey guys, I do not usually pop in on anything other than Case cause that is where I spent my life, BUT, I had a man on the Case forum who used an off brand oil in his transmission, every lined friction plate assembly in the power shift, the diff lock and PTO shed its lining just like you have pictured, causing him thousands of dollars to replace the lined plates. We recommend that our customers stay with Case oils and filters, As far as filters, I believe Case and John Deere share the same manufacture as we were a Case/ JD lawn and garden dealer and we used JD filters which were identical in design. , Back to oil, I would recommend the same for you guys as I believe HYGARD is probably recommended for that unit, not knowing JDs oil specs I could be wrong but I would use JD brand oil, BTW, I have high regard for HYGARD and believe it too be on a par with Cases HYTRAN and would not be afraid to run it in a Case product.
 
JL Sargent

JL Sargent

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melben said:
shed its lining just like you have pictured
Click to expand...
This transmission is 20 years old. I don't believe it had ever been worked on before. Time and hundreds if not thousands of heat cycles I suspect separated those frictions from their backings. The previous owner used JD filters and fluids in the machine. It did have only JD filters on it when I bought it. I would think that eventually they all come apart regardless of what brand oil is used.
 
T

Tinkerer

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I think Melben was referring to components that should of had hundreds, if not thousands of hours life still in them.
Undoubtedly yours were wore out because they are extremely thin. Amazing it ran as long as it did and metal pieces didn't cause more problems.
It is good that additional info like his and mg's and all the pros gets posted because a lot of people are reading these threads and I think it really helps them.
 
JL Sargent

JL Sargent

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Tinkerer said:
It is good that additional info like his and mg's and all the pros gets posted because a lot of people are reading these threads and I think it really helps them.
Click to expand...
Absolutely. I just didn't want melben or anybody else to think I blamed anything but a hard long life on my worn out clutch frictions since I mentioned different oil brands. :)
 
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