mg2361
Senior Member
Nope. Not unless you want to remove the bottom guards and the fuel tank. I would remove the engine. The engine can be removed in a snap on 644E's.
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Slobbery Deere, blowby question
- Thread starter fast_st
- Start date
Nope. Not unless you want to remove the bottom guards and the fuel tank. I would remove the engine. The engine can be removed in a snap on 644E's.
Yeah, the service tech who did the pre-purchase inspection noted its likely been rebuilt at least once. With the oil pan being right on top of the axle, it seems easier to just pull the engine out and work it that way. Book says 1600 pounds ? Kubota can pick 2000.
farmerlund
Senior Member
Can you guys live stream the rebuild on here? Its frozen and boring around here. lol 
Well, I suppose!! I posted a time lapse of splitting the 644e in order to have the center pins rebored! I might be able to video the engine yank and overhaul! I gotta manage my budget, might get the piston and sleeve kit, then order bearings once I get access to the crank.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
Question for you deere mechanics, are the cylinder head valve depths as critical as it was years back? I remember rebuilding heads mainly for six cylinder engines and the seat and valve
faces were hard as hell. I would cut the seats and face the valves using stellite stones, then depth mic each valve and move them around and re-mic each valve in the seats. Mark each
valve to go back in that seat then deck the head to bring everything in range, which usually was no more than .008 off the deck.
faces were hard as hell. I would cut the seats and face the valves using stellite stones, then depth mic each valve and move them around and re-mic each valve in the seats. Mark each
valve to go back in that seat then deck the head to bring everything in range, which usually was no more than .008 off the deck.
mg2361
Senior Member
Yep. Valve depth, head thickness and both piston and liner protrusion are all critical measurements that must be checked on a rebuild.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
I realize the P&L issue on any diesel but the deere heads were critical on valve depth unlike some other engines.
GregsHD
Senior Member
Yes everything is in the service manual CTM1. I would upload it here but it's 30+ MB. Send me a pm with your email.
GregsHD
Senior Member
Try this, I just about broke my phone in half trying to get the link haha!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/155RpCxdLUkoQEETD1kh2QoMEDUqlGzVU/view
https://drive.google.com/file/d/155RpCxdLUkoQEETD1kh2QoMEDUqlGzVU/view
I have the big paper set, parts, couple service books, wiring diagram and something else too,
GregsHD
Senior Member
Good deal, you confused me by the question of if the head specs were in the service manual.. I would have assumed you'd have read through it already.
Oh of course not! I mean certainly that book has all the raw data, and a lot of it! but the experience of someone that's been ears deep is the appendix the books are missing. Generally with a 12pc hammer set and some vice grips and the book I can get by. But like on the hydraulic piston seals, there is no mention of using a ring cut from a 2 liter bottle and a worm hose clamp to precompress that soft gray sealing ring versus letting it stand for 8 hours or such. The Deere is at the shooting club shop and most of the times I'll get there with the intent to so some research when someone comes over to borrow a tool, complain about something, ask for help moving something big etc. I love how detailed the wiring diagram is though.
typ4
Well-Known Member
We just finished our 544E engine. 13000 hrs never been into, head had so many cracks, not visible on deck, that it wasnt feasible to fix. It had been putting coolant in the crankcase for 3-4 years, I would go out and drain it off every couple days, when it got to a cupfull a day I told the boss its time. LOL
2 spun mains, 1 spun rod. Had the block reconned, got a good standard crank, rods rebuilt. Exchange head. Its in the machine and should have it running next week,
Moral is, inspect everything closely , replace rod and head bolts.
ALSO, check the trans input driveshaft, if it is siezed on the slip, while the engine is out pull the convertor cover and replace the bearing, when stuck it will pull on the convertor and eat the bearing and pull the pump drive shaft out of the convertor splines. Then you have to get a long die grinder and de-burr the splines in the convertor hub, while sucking the oil out. Very tedious, trust me on this,.LOL
2 spun mains, 1 spun rod. Had the block reconned, got a good standard crank, rods rebuilt. Exchange head. Its in the machine and should have it running next week,
Moral is, inspect everything closely , replace rod and head bolts.
ALSO, check the trans input driveshaft, if it is siezed on the slip, while the engine is out pull the convertor cover and replace the bearing, when stuck it will pull on the convertor and eat the bearing and pull the pump drive shaft out of the convertor splines. Then you have to get a long die grinder and de-burr the splines in the convertor hub, while sucking the oil out. Very tedious, trust me on this,.LOL
Boy that sounds like a pickle!! Luckily for the moment our coolant is oil free and vice versa! As to the trans, we pulled the shaft out a while ago, wasn't too siezed but was a little stiff with some old grease. We changed the u-joint on the trans side and cleaned up the slip yoke right purrdy and gave it some extra lube. I suppose if the engine comes out its a good time to check that bearing!
Well today was the day, removed the engine from the Deere and got it in the shop.
The oil mixed with coolant is black and sludgy! Found a few issues,
1 the cam gear wasn't fully seated on the cam and the bolt and gear were lightly scuffing the cover, will have to investigate why it wasn't installed all the way.
2 there are numbers on the connecting rods but they don't match anything except rod-cap numbers, I guessing it was part of the rebuild process. Main caps seem to be in the right order
Now I have the manual set or so I thought, is there one that covers engine overhaul? I have injector pump removal and other stuff but nothing that says engine overhaul details. Is that a separate manual all by itself?
Anyway will be extracting the liners, one came out with the piston, might have hooked on the rod or something but that's okay.
Searching to find some shops in the area that handle diesel engine work, really only found one good one so far.
The oil mixed with coolant is black and sludgy! Found a few issues,
1 the cam gear wasn't fully seated on the cam and the bolt and gear were lightly scuffing the cover, will have to investigate why it wasn't installed all the way.
2 there are numbers on the connecting rods but they don't match anything except rod-cap numbers, I guessing it was part of the rebuild process. Main caps seem to be in the right order
Now I have the manual set or so I thought, is there one that covers engine overhaul? I have injector pump removal and other stuff but nothing that says engine overhaul details. Is that a separate manual all by itself?
Anyway will be extracting the liners, one came out with the piston, might have hooked on the rod or something but that's okay.
Searching to find some shops in the area that handle diesel engine work, really only found one good one so far.
mg2361
Senior Member
A 6466 repair manual P/N is CTM1.
I think I'm in error! Looking at the engine tag and it calls itself a 6076T not a 6466T is that a different manual? CTM6 possibly, hard to get solid data on it. Are the differences between the two huge?
I got lucky, the splines and the weird rubber coupler on the flywheel were both in great condition