Less than zero

Well, never let it be said I don't get full use out of something. I bought a Case 550G LT a couple of years ago as a "ranch dozer" that I fully knew was nearing the end of it's undercarriage life, and apparently the previous owner had started replacing parts on. So I've got track chains that are less than zero percent left. It is a CELT (Case Extended Life Track) system, and after looking into new track chains for that, I've decided spending more on a new undercarriage than I spent on the whole dozer is not really an option. I checked the parts manual that I have, and it looks like the only thing I'd have to replace to convert it to standard type tracks is the sprockets. (The CELT Sprockets have only 13 teeth). I think I can wait on the bottom rollers, which are at or just under 50%, and the idler and carrier roller were replaced by the previous owner, and are 80% or better, according to the charts in the service manual. The pads (where I'm more confident in my measurements) are just under 50%, and believe it or not, in quickly checking 8 different bolts on them, I was able to break all 8 free with only a little foul language.
But my experience with trucks, tractors, and farm equipment has taught me that the manuals aren't always right, and the best place to get advice is from folks who've "been there." And with all the checking I've done of books and stuff, I've come up with three questions I'm going to throw out to you folks who actually know what you're doing.
1. Does anyone have experience with converting the CELT undercarriage back to standard type tracks you can share (or tell me don't do it?)
2. If the rollers are still "fairly good", (half the life left) and I can do it without breaking the bank, should I go ahead and replace them, instead of trying to get "full use?"
3. With limited experience on heavy equipment, is this something an old "shade tree mechanic" can take on?

Any input would be appreciated, (and I'm not offended by being told I'm doing something dumb, that's kind of my specialty, one of my best friends has always said my last words will be "hey guys, watch this!")

Some people when tracks get worn out to take out a link. You could count the number of links you have compared to what you should have will let you if one has been removed already. You could also look for lightly used track . Depending on how much you plan to use it.

Unable to say about CELT but I went from reg CAT to SALT (955) and the only thing that changed was the chains, sprockets are the same.

When thinking about removing a link I was told don't do it, so I didn't

I never changed tracks before, but while it was long and hard work, I did it by my self

See if the track pad holes are the same as a start. I think it's worth paying a few hundred bucks to have the pads put on the new rails in a track press with new nuts and bolts. The undercarriage I replaced had good pads but most had loose bolts so I replaced them all. Once they get loose and get pounded, they will never stay tight. The shop ensure way the bolts can get the proper torque using the torque turn method. A lot of people just use an impact wrench but that's not the proper way to do them. Undercarriage can be a DIY project.

If I remember correctly the Case CELT tracks have what looks like a loose bushing on top of a standard bushing. The ones I looked at in the past could be rotated by hand. Sprockets and tracks chains are matched together. I don't see why you couldn't put standard chains back on as the idlers and rollers are supposed to be the same as standard type tracks.
Does your Case dealer offer up someone who can measure the undercarriage for free and let you know your options? I'm not sure that new components were installed on old ones as the machines that I have looked at prematurely wore out the chains before the rest of the components. It's usually not cost effective to put new components to run on older ones but one does what one has enough money for to keep the show on the road. Once you know exactly where the older components measure out at, you can make a better informed decision.

Thanks for the replies. I've found some used CELT tracks, with 20" pads, instead of the 16" on the dozer. Don't know if they'll work with those pads, or if I'll have to do a "swap" out, since my current pads aren't all that bad.

We have an 850KWT that we replaced the CELT with standard SALT rails. Yes, all you need to do is replace the sprocket. Everything else will work fine We have put 1700hrs on ours since the switch and have been very pleased with the cost savings.

Old Sarge said:

Thanks for the replies. I've found some used CELT tracks, with 20" pads, instead of the 16" on the dozer. Don't know if they'll work with those pads, or if I'll have to do a "swap" out, since my current pads aren't all that bad.

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It would be less work to cut the 20" pads than remove and replace with 16".

Put both sets of pads up for sale , see which set sells first.

Well, there's no clearance for 20" pads, so I guess I'll keep looking for replacement parts, unless I can find someone who'll neatly cut 2" off each side of 74 pads for a really cheap price. (Ha ha on that.)

Old Sarge said:

Well, there's no clearance for 20" pads, so I guess I'll keep looking for replacement parts, unless I can find someone who'll neatly cut 2" off each side of 74 pads for a really cheap price. (Ha ha on that.)

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I forget who did the same thing a year or so ago. He's a member

if you have clearance on the outside just cut the inside, just use a torch and cut them from the inside out

catman13 said:

if you have clearance on the outside just cut the inside, just use a torch and cut them from the inside out

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Unfortunately this will create excess wear on the undercarriage.

How much would you have to cut off the 20" pads? Can you get by with just a inch on the inside? I don't remember if you said what you use the machine for and what ground conditions you normally run it in. For a crawler that does not live in a world where it is constantly cutting into the ground I would not be to concerned about the little bit of unequal track offset. Tracks are constantly loaded on one side or the other unless you are in a steady diet of softer ground or a situation like ag plowing in soft ground where the tracks may not sink as deep on the longer side. If you do change pads make sure you power wire brush them to insure them and the rails are free of anything, even old paint. Even when installing new rails and pads, it is imperative to remove all the paint at the mating surfaces to keep the bolts from working loose.

We used to see cut pads all the time. In Washington State a PC150 size machine came with pads that made the machine wide enough to need over width permits. I can't tell you how many machines I've inspected that had the outside inch and half cut off on both sides to get under the permit requirement. I've measured hundreds if not more sets of undercarriage and couldn't find anyway to quantify the effect of the width of the pad reduced on one side. The overall width of the pad and the miles traveled in reverse has more to do with faster wear of track chains that anything else.

John C. said:

We used to see cut pads all the time. In Washington State a PC150 size machine came with pads that made the machine wide enough to need over width permits. I can't tell you how many machines I've inspected that had the outside inch and half cut off on both sides to get under the permit requirement. I've measured hundreds if not more sets of undercarriage and couldn't find anyway to quantify the effect of the width of the pad reduced on one side. The overall width of the pad and the miles traveled in reverse has more to do with faster wear of track chains that anything else.

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Why reverse? I don't know squat about undercarriage wear in general so I'm just asking to learn something.

It’s all about how the chain is constructed. In the forward travel direction there is no relative rotational movement between the bush and the sprocket tooth as they come into contact with one another and also as they separate. In the reverse direction the bush rotates WRT the sprocket tooth both during contact and separation. That relative rotational movement causes increased bush wear. Generally it is always recommended to travel with the drive motors at the back for that reason.

Maybe some of the discussion here might help. Excavators track link assemblies are manufactured in just the same way as dozer ones are, so the same comments apply apart from the speed part.
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/high-speed-reverse.40493/#post-463086

My primary concern with buying the used CELT chains and wider (20") pads and cutting the pads (not even considering whether or not to cut both sides) is just getting them cut. I don't own a torch, not because I don't see a need, but primarily because I suck at cutting straight lines, (or even curves where a curve is what is intended) and with 74 tries, I might get one, two if I'm having an exceptionally steady day, cut straight.
I use the dozer for clearing brush and trees, and moving dirt to control drainage. The soil I usually work in is a fine sand over a layer of clay, over another layer of sand. (In other words, an ancient river bottom.)
The dozer only has about 1300 hours showing on the clock, but I strongly suspect this dozer was built up from parts from several others, so I'm not sure if the CELT system actually gets more hours. I don't know where it was run, or in what type of soil, but the hours showing seem to be on the low/middle end of what life I've been told to expect from "regular" undercarriage. (I don't know if I should continue with a system that costs nearly twice as much if I only get 25% more use out of it.) Anyone got any experience with CELT that can say if they feel the system would be worth the extra expense (especially on an older, smaller, dozer like this?)

You can use a piece of flat bar as a guide for making straight lines with a torch. A cut off wheel in a 7" grinder or a bandsaw would also work to cut pads. Not as fast but would work.

I was thinking the same thing Dave, use a piece of flat stock or even heavy angle iron as a straight edge guide.