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Case 580 SK Transaxle weight

mbavers

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Oct 11, 2011
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272
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homer alaska
I'm trying to prepare ahead of time for removal of the transaxlel to fix a leaky brake problem. The leak is internal and I have narrowed it down to the left side. I don't know yet if I'll remove the transaxle completely or just lower it and remove the left axle housing. I'll be working alone and outside.

Does anyone know about how much weight I'll be dealing with, both for the transaxle and for the individual axle housing assembly? Also, any tips would be appreciated.
 

Coy Lancaster

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Arkansas
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The tranny is heavy about 1500lbs or so. You need a good transmission jack to handle it. If you don't have one you might be able to rent one at a rental store.
 

Coy Lancaster

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I was going to use a regular automotive floor jack to lower it; wouldn't that work?
If you have a big base and can put a chain around the tranny and attach it to the jack or plate so it won't tip either way. If you plan on just lowering the tranny just enough to remove axles it might work just be careful and put a jack stand under the other axle.
 

alrman

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QLD Australia
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Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
I'd go a bit heavier on the transaxle weight, I use a transmission jack rated at 900kg & it wants to spread it's legs while holding it.
When I lift it with the crane on my truck, it really knows it's working.
I would guess the transaxle is close to 1 ton.
The individual axle assemblies alone would easily be 120 - 150kg.
I have used forklifts with fork extensions many times to do this job - maybe worth considering if you have one available.

Personally, I wouldn't use a regular automotive jack - simply not stable enough - especially when you are trying to guess the centre of transaxle. They are very front heavy.
Plus, the standard jack wont lift high enough & lower enough to roll the transaxle out from under the raised machine.
 

mbavers

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Joined
Oct 11, 2011
Messages
272
Location
homer alaska
I'd go a bit heavier on the transaxle weight, I use a transmission jack rated at 900kg & it wants to spread it's legs while holding it.
When I lift it with the crane on my truck, it really knows it's working.
I would guess the transaxle is close to 1 ton.
The individual axle assemblies alone would easily be 120 - 150kg.
I have used forklifts with fork extensions many times to do this job - maybe worth considering if you have one available.

Personally, I wouldn't use a regular automotive jack - simply not stable enough - especially when you are trying to guess the centre of transaxle. They are very front heavy.

Thanks. Since I am working on gravel and have no forklift I'm starting to think of having the work done elsewhere. Maneuvering a 300 lb axle under the backhoe may be a bit of a challenge, especially when replacing it.
 

alrman

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Jun 20, 2009
Messages
3,308
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QLD Australia
Occupation
Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
Ah, gravel & jacks don't work well together. Reminds me of a story.....

Many years ago I had to replace a crownwheel & pinion on a 580B - which involves splitting the tractor in half.
I did the job onsite - on dirt - for an old Polish farmer with limited english & funds.
Anyhow, I split the tractor on the dirt & dismantled the transaxle on site & took the crownwheel & carrier away to aquire parts etc & also as they needed to be riveted together.
I said a few times to this old fella, how it would be difficult to push the tractor back together & that this type of job is best done in a workshop situation & at least on concrete.

Well I returned a week or so later, to put the machine back together & blow me down - the split tractor was sitting on a slab of concrete! - how he did it, I don't know - but just goes to show that you can do anything if you put your mind to it. ;)
 

mbavers

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2011
Messages
272
Location
homer alaska
Ah, gravel & jacks don't work well together. Reminds me of a story.....

Many years ago I had to replace a crownwheel & pinion on a 580B - which involves splitting the tractor in half.
I did the job onsite - on dirt - for an old Polish farmer with limited english & funds.
Anyhow, I split the tractor on the dirt & dismantled the transaxle on site & took the crownwheel & carrier away to aquire parts etc & also as they needed to be riveted together.
I said a few times to this old fella, how it would be difficult to push the tractor back together & that this type of job is best done in a workshop situation & at least on concrete.

Well I returned a week or so later, to put the machine back together & blow me down - the split tractor was sitting on a slab of concrete! - how he did it, I don't know - but just goes to show that you can do anything if you put your mind to it. ;)

I wouldn't have been directly on gravel-I would have used some 1 1/8 plywood as a base. I could pour a concrete base, but that would require some dirt work, and that would require my backhoe. Actually I've got the leaking side brake line blocked off, so I could use the machine with just the right brake working. At low speeds I think that might work!
 

MarshallPowerGen

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Northwestern USA
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I swapped one earlier in the year, it wasn't too bad in the shop. I wouldn't dare mess with it in gravel and probably not on plywood. Took a trans jack chained under the pumpkin and a floor jack on the yoke lowering both to keep it even, raised the machine with the outriggers and stuck some jack stands under the back and slid the axle out the side.
 

mbavers

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Joined
Oct 11, 2011
Messages
272
Location
homer alaska
I swapped one earlier in the year, it wasn't too bad in the shop. I wouldn't dare mess with it in gravel and probably not on plywood. Took a trans jack chained under the pumpkin and a floor jack on the yoke lowering both to keep it even, raised the machine with the outriggers and stuck some jack stands under the back and slid the axle out the side.
Thanks. I'm thinking of pouring a 6' X 6' X 4" pad of concrete to work on. Friend offered me his shop to work in but backhoe won't fit under door frame.
 

Tinkerer

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May 21, 2009
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The shore of the illinois river USA
Thanks. Friend offered me his shop to work in but backhoe won't fit under door frame.
My door frame is too low also.
I have a 10 foot ceiling.
When I back into my shop I have to lay the boom out because it is tooo high in the upright position.
I swing it off to the side as I slowly back in. Once I'm in I raise it up.
Maybe do that and let some air out of the tires to get the tractor into his shop.
 

mbavers

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2011
Messages
272
Location
homer alaska
My door frame is too low also.
I have a 10 foot ceiling.
When I back into my shop I have to lay the boom out because it is tooo high in the upright position.
I swing it off to the side as I slowly back in. Once I'm in I raise it up.
Maybe do that and let some air out of the tires to get the tractor into his shop.

The cab itself is too high.
 

alrman

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QLD Australia
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Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
Depending on what parts are needed to do the repair & paying top workshop rates anywhere between $3.5k ?(AU) for simply resealing brake pistons to $5k (AU) for new pistons, backing plates & discs..... ballpark.....
 

cmrsf1

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Sep 3, 2015
Messages
33
Location
Santa Fe, NM
I had been told in the past, about US$4,000.00 to tops, $5,000.00 by my mechanic friend. I was just quoted by US$10,600.00 by a CASE dealer! Anyone else been quoted or paid such a high price?
 

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  • brakes-estimate.png
    brakes-estimate.png
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cmrsf1

Active Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2015
Messages
33
Location
Santa Fe, NM
Sorry, the png didn't save correctly. Here is the estimate as a pdf...
 

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